soobenthusiast

The exhaust now exits at the rear of the car, and sounds quite good. There was about 3 inches of tubing left after the muffler flange, so we just cut the flange off and made a pipe that went back from there. After test fitting several exhaust options to make sure that we got both the aesthetics and the sound right, it was decided that there was only one way to go.

It looks nice! I wish we had more 626 wagons here. I don't know as much about the 4th gens, but that 2.0 is supposed to be a solid motor. I had a 92 626 with 190,000 miles and the motor and tranny are still going strong in my Probe.

I recently swapped the motor and tranny out of my 92 Mazda 626 into my 89 Ford Probe. I now have the probe put together and driving with just a few little things left. One odd thing is that when I pump my brakes, each time I pump it the pedal goes farther down. Usually, if anything, the brakes have air in them and are the opposite, with the pedal coming up farther each time. Anyone have an idea why it does this? And the other thing is that if I have the idle speed control solenoid plugged in, the solenoid just goes wide open and the car tries to run around 3-4k. Then the computer realizes something is not right and uses fuel cuts to bring it back down, it will eventually slow down and just go between 900-1300, again cutting the fuel to slow it down and the ISC speeding it up. I know the solenoid is not stuck because when I unplugged it the idle is like it should be. I'm hoping this problem will go away as I put some miles on it, but any ideas on what is causing would be appreciated!

I hope you find a solution, the Loyale runs exactly as 93Newbaru describes.

Since we live in Oklahoma we should be able to wear it out before it rusts:D We think it sounds pretty good too, but we have some snazzier exhaust options (pics to come). TheLoyale, it was your thread on the TrashWagon that inspired this one. I forgot to mention earlier that the CEL is always on, but varies between flashing and solid, how does one read the codes?

My father recently got a '92 Loyale Sedan, fwd, 5spd. We've done enough to it, already needed some help, and there is more to do, that I'm starting a thread to document it's progress and ask questions. It's only showing 233,000. The 2nd and 3rd times it was driven the crank pulley came off, it's now torqued to spec with a little Loc-Tite and has been fine. The next thing is shocks, which should be here soon, as there is NO damping left. The muffler is completely gone, so something will need to made so the exhaust goes out the back instead of dumping at the rear wheel.

We went about a mile before shutting it off. It was a 40 degree day and the temperature gauge never hit the red. How much should we torque the crank pulley too?

Well that explains why it started to get hot, though I don't believe we overheated it. is there any reason the crank pulley would have come off by itself, it did it at the same time as a 6k shift.

The crank pulley on the Loyale removed itself while driving, no idea why, but need to make sure it doesn't happen again. For some reason the temperature went up after the belt stopped spinning, but the water pump is timing belt powered isn't it?

Ok, Got the key out, now we just need to find a way to get another key.

We recently acquired a 92 Loyale sedan that has the key broken off in the ignition. How should I get the cylinder off or get the key out? Thanks

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/2017061146.html I realize it's a bit of a drive, but not too bad on the price. They've had it on Craigslist for several months, and it used to say it was running, so its probably just been sitting.

Actually, I think that she says the water and bugs are not a problem, as there is a filter and the water would have to go up a couple feet to get in the motor. But I think I would also be wondering about it for daily driver duty.

On another forum I'm on there is a Ford Probe track car that has a ram air intake under the front. They get 5 psi at 70 mph. http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1701047435

They're right about using the search feature, It will help answer most common questions; I've forgotten about it a couple times when the answer was one search away.

Definititely look for them in the west, I'm down here in the South and there are very few Soobs available, Way to few.

I am looking at a 94 Legacy wagon for sale, it looks decent,and only only 152,000 miles, but there are a couple issues I was wondering about. The first is that it needs a clutch, but this isn't very hard is it? The thing that really makes me wonder is the seller says there is a somewhat loud ticking sound coming from the motor and she drove it like that for 6 months before the clutch went out. I was wondering what could be causing this sound and whether it is a serious issue.

I've been looking around and have found a couple of 1987 Gl-10's, both seem pretty cheap. I was just wondering if there's anything specific I should check on them. One has some faded paint, and the interior is probably a little rough, but it's a 224,000 mile car with a 30,000 mile motor, running and driving, needs exhaust. The other one looks nicer, but has been parked for a couple years and doesn't run, guy says something about a carb, but I'm guessing he just doesn't know. and is $350 less than the other one.

For reviving a car from storage, you are on the right track, clean the old gas and get it out of the system. If you have problems Marvel Mystery Oil can do wonders. And when you first drive it make sure the brakes are ok, wheel seals often go bad while sitting. I think that's most of it, good luck.

It's a groove that goes from the combustion cup where the spark plug is to to the outside wall of the Cylinder. The idea is to help funnel the flame towards being over the piston, this seems like it would help as there is 2 or 3 inches from where the spark plug is to where the center of piston is. Some people say that they get as much as 25% better fuel mileage (somewhat believable) and as much as 50% power increase (hard to believe it's that much).

So, I've been wondering, is there anyone else in Oklahama?

I would have to agree that Craftsman are okay for the weekend mechanic and it is usually easier to find a Sears store than a Snap-On van, but I haven't bough any Craftsman tools since I discovered time and place near me that the Snap-On guy comes every week. I would reccomend having good tools in your road kit, that's not when you want your tool to break.

A multi meter is an invaluable tool, One the the things I use the most on mine is the Ohmmeter while doing electrical work. When I was having an alternator rebuilt the guy showed me an easy way to see if your alternator is charging without a multimeter, just take something steel, like a screwdriver, and touch it to the cap in the center of the backside of the alternator while it's running, and if it's magnetic then it is charging. Granted, this doesn't tell you how much it's charging, but is a great trick for the side of the road.

Allright guys, I've heard about this for a while but can't seem to find much information on it. What it is is that milling a slot into the head will add performance and increase fuel economy. I believe that the groove just goes from the spark plug to where the center of the piston is. Any advice would be welcome, I'm considering doing this to my truck and also have them milled down to get to some modern level of compression.

I think the 15w-40 would probaly be a good choice, we use it for a lot of things here in Oklahoma with our warm climate, I would use it before I would use 10w-30, but I don't know much about Kia's either. I have wondered if manufacturers use thinner oil to help with break in and cold starts, and don't really care if it affects long term engine life.