opus

OK, I'll lower the idle for now and check. Is a jet a jet or is it Weber specific? Tailpipe is always full of soot, never has it been clean.

It just the first start of the day. 2x it will die, 3rd time it stays running and never an issue after that. If I could get the choke plates to stay fully closed once it starts, I think it might work. There has to be a way to adjust it I would think. This has nothing to do with the metallic spring adjustment, that closes it tight...til it starts.

I dont like low idles. It shouldnt make a difference though. Not sure I understand your question about the idle screw. You dont mean mix screw, do you? 140/140 mains 170/160 air correctors 50 idle jets

Find a fuel gauge around here is like finding an honest politician!

Jets are what Weber tells me I should have 160/170 if I remember correctly. I might be wrong, but they are the correct ones according to my elevation. Mix is like 1.75 turns out. Fast idle probably 1500, low idle 1000.

I have. Its only hard to start if you pump it when its hot.

Oh yeah, terrible on hot starts. Anytime to hit the throttle more than once, you're screwed.

I generally just tap it to set the choke and thats it. You are right, they flood fast on cold starts.

Explain. The choke opens fully and closes fully until you start it. Once you start it, it opens about 1/8".

Choke works great. Timing is fine too.

Electric, brand new. Old one did the same thing which is why I replaced it. Choke is set properly.

Pump the pedal once, start it, it fires fine but just burns the gas from the initial pump. Dont touch pedal, start again, burns a little bit of gas, dies. 3rd time, dont touch gas, start it...perfect. The choke is set properly. Even if I go way rich on it, it doesnt make a difference. What gives?

Wow! I had that ambition.....about 35 yrs ago.

I'm thinking this might be easiest: http://z15.invisionfree.com/Mv_Brat_Brumby/ar/t134.htm [Midway down the page]

Not wheel or tire related.

I am thinking carrier bearing as well. Wonder if you can dissect those and put a new one on, instead of the whole shaft?

Well, of course that has all been done. I know, I didnt specify that. This is way beyond basic maintenance.

EA82 wagon, 5 spd. About 45 and 60mph or so, transmission area, steering wheel. Sounds like rear drive shaft....make sense?

Save your time, spend the $45 and get a radiator.

You still havent got all the air out.

I'd have them do it for $150 even!

Save yourself the strife and spend $48 and get a new one. We've all tried the flush route, with not much success.

We did 1500 miles with a lot of mountains. Who needs HP when you have 3rd gear!! Hows your back feeling?

Check battery ground too.

Speaking without thinking here. Could you make a kidney air filter work like we have on ea82 carb'd rigs? I hardly ever have to change air filters and I live on gravel roads.