opus

I'm kinda fond of the slop. Plus, it gives me a good excuse to tell people they cant drive it cause of the shifting issue.

Well if you havent been here in years, sell them to me for $10 and deliver them. Lets do it, I need to get this back together. PM coming.........

Ugh....I need a couple. Has anyone got any they can spare? I guess this explains why my inside belt was wearing.

And I 3rdly recommend....the drive shaft.

More than likely a ground issue...at least mine was. Make sure its got a good ground.

I just put the one above your post in the other day. Works fine, $23 on eBay.

Well wet pavement aint gunna cut it. You've got to be on a surface that is going to allow slippage.

Instead of welding them you can take the nut off, pull the tube out and stick a good ole' US of A quarter in there and put the nut back on.

Vacuum leak?

Idle screw is front left of the carb. Check to be sure the cable isnt too tight, if it idles too high and you cant lower it.

Like I drive the only soob that has this issue. Of all the soobs I have owned, everyone has done it. Now unless I pile a handful of fat chicks in the car to flatten the suspension......just sayin.

Ya know, we should have reversible wheels on these things for when the tires wear on the inside. Pull the tire/wheel off and flip it over and put it back on. Just sayin.....

If that is the correct picture, no, its not like mine. I am thinking its not the right picture. Here is what mine looks like, and this should fit yours as well but check into it. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ZRO0/3100008.oap?year=2006&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&vi=1432742&******=Search_01372_1432742_-1&pt=01372&ppt=C0332

There seems to be some discrepancy with the picture. Mine is a screw in plug. You stick an allen wrench extension in the plug on the engine, unscrew it and screw the new one in. Mind you, the plug will probably offer some difficulty coming out of the engine, due to its been in there a while. Thin out your transmission fluid. You could do synthetic or you could do as I did and mixed ATF with 90w. You will probably hear some complaints about that route, but its a legit option. Its not even got cold yet...just wait.

Kats 11405 is the one for an EA82.

This is the type you want: http://www.amazon.com/Kats-11416-Watt-Frost-Heater/dp/B000I8YOUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1325018348&sr=1-2 Except it screws into one of the front plugs on the engine. Save yourself the trouble and do it right the first time. Dont do anything but this or a bottle heater. Those heater pads suck in this country. I will find the screw in part number for you. I have one out in the shop.

Let us know how that goes for you.

I tried to get $1700 for mine and is clean and 150k on it. Granted the dash is split. No takers.....just tire kickers.

http://montana.craigslist.org/cto/2759919441.html

I really dont think we could mount anything stout enough on the front to do much good. I think the weight would be a bit too much. We dont hardly even drive at night in this part of the state, just for that reason.

We used to crack a vacuum line to lean it out when going up high.

I'll tell you right up front, I want the tailgate and bed chrome if you are going to part with it....please.

About the day you posted this, I had the same symptoms. Sounded like a right front wheel bearing or axle shaft. I suggested to you the rear driveshaft. I had the time today to swap out driveshafts and it was as a I suggested to you. What did you find?

Is the choke closed?

Dont leave out the rear driveshaft, it can throw a noise anywhere on the vehicle. Not sure though with it changing with pitch, just a thought.