opus

Well....its too far away for my reading glasses....and too close for my normal glasses.....

Oh yeah, it fixed THAT problem.....now onto the next problem.

I've done this a few times, never had an issue. I went and checked this morning. Of course it is all put back together already. I pulled the wheel, pulled the lower control arm bolt, torsion bar bolt and stabilizer bolts. Pull the stub off, rotated it 180 degrees....do I have to complete this............. [sigh] Every other time I have done these, first try they worked. Never would have thought there was only one way to put them on.

I am running it strictly on 12v from the battery. Alternator has not been in the equation for a week. Its not the carb and its not incomplete ignition. Its surely a fuel starvation issue.

What would be causing the lean conditions then? I read somewhere here that the fuel pumps were designed in mind with the alternator. Something about if the alternator is defunct, the pump wont. If you get in a wreck and the fuel line is cut, its designed to not pump fuel out if the alt isnt spinning. I checked the power line from battery to alt, no resistance.

Then I'll put a rubber bolt in. I contacted them. Lovely, now I get to take it apart again. Thanks for bouncing thoughts.

I thought that too but the math wouldnt add up, I dont think. Its really that minute. I read the receipt I got and it said its for all EXCEPT the M/T Turbo. Would a grade 8 bolt work?

I've tried this thing 8 ways to Sunday, no go. Can I get a grade 8 and put it in there with a squash nut? This project has turned into a project.

I'm glad you asked. :/ Its running lean, backfiring at high rpm. Horribly lumpy idle, if it idles at all. I turn the idle screw up, keep pumping the gas pedal. After it warms up, same idle, I close the choke and it runs better. Plugs are plenty lean looking as well. As you know, once electrical enters the program, I shut down. I have gone through 2 alternators in the coarse of a week. I am not putting another one on until I figure something out. The 2nd alt I put on is charging 18v at an idle. Voltage goes down as the rpm's go up. I'm pretty much stumped at this point in time.

The hole doesnt line up good enough to put the roll pin in. Whats with that? Tried moving it about, left and right. Its off by 1/16" maybe.

Alternator is putting out 18 with the battery wire disconnected. I am thinking something is awry with the fuel pump, which might be toasting alternators......is it possible? Is there a way to diagnose the pump with a multi-meter? [there is 12v getting to the pump]

I'm having the same issue with an ea82. Try taking off the battery wire on the back of the alternator. See if it runs well with that off, leave the other wires on. Remember, that wire will be hot, dont let it touch anything when its running. Curious on behalf of your issue and my issue.

Ok, Not sure what wire that is. Would it be possible to bypass [re-wire] the current wire without digging apart the whole harness? In other words, I am not going to tear apart the whole harness for this. Can I replace it with an external wire? Kinda funny, we had a whole whack of rain and a few days later is when it acted up.

Reopening this was not what I wanted to do. I yank an alternator off another rig the other day, seemed to be fine. Fire it up and headed to church today, same symptoms. Would be rather odd that 2 alternators went bad. Got home and yanked the battery feed wire off it and it runs fine. What am I missing here? I need to find a volt meter tomorrow but its fair to say it is charging too high. Is there something that would cause me to lose 2 alternators? Maybe I should run a new feed wire and see what happens?

Do you know what size jets you went to?

Seals, belts, clutch. Someone sure wasnt thinking right when they came up with that mickey mouse gasket.

I'm pretty good with setting up carbs, I wont get this tweaked any better as it stands now. The thing really gets up and goes at this point. Like I said, when its warm it doesnt take much to flood it when you start it. I know I will have to pull the top and see what jets are in it, I am sure it is too rich for my elevation.

I do notice with a warm restart it sure doesnt take much to flood it.

I bumped the timing up today. Rechecked the carb settings. In other words, did it as described by manufacturers suggestions. I'll try it a bit before I dig into the top. Pretty sure I will lean it out if this doesnt help. They suggest that 0-5000' is the same jet, which is probably pretty fat for me. I am at 2500' and only go up from here, leaning out is probably needed.

I do have 3 dist. Maybe I could get someone to recurve one....unless its something I can do.

Timing is advance plenty, +15 I think it is. Jets I am not sure of I just stuck it on. Didnt seem like there were too many options for jetting, when I was looking at the book. Seemed the ones I wanted were in a range from sea level to 5000'. I'm thinking leaning it out some is what I will do. It seems kinda fat. Dist. is stock. Vacuum is to the port on the Weber itself. This is my 2nd tank of gas so I havent done anything aside from check mileage and tell you about it.

32/36

When I put a Weber on my Brat. Whats with that? I drive pretty conservatively too.

Reading/thinking a GM swap might be the cheapest and most effective route to go now. :/

It was the alternator. I need another one though, anyone got one?