opus

Wow, it must be long. I have a gas tank right behind my rear diff. I cant do anything more than level for a couple feet I think. How do you keep a tube on the oily-tapered end of the bottle? You probably push the tube down to the shoulder, past the taper?

Ummm...rear diff. I havent checked though, maybe I have AC back there.

Hmmm...pump goes up and down, hose falls out of hole or off of pump. Nice.

What do you use to add gear oil in the rear diff? I am tired of making a mess. Squirt bottle is too long. Who thought this stuff up anyways??? Grrrr!

I'd do it in mine, which has 270K on it, in a heart beat.

Why dont you just find a non-feedback Hitachi and call it good??

Go with what GD says, he knows better. I just felt bad that no one answered you yet.

I always take every vac. line off, every canister and anything else I can find, except for the choke, cabin controls and the vac advance hose. Always run great.

Right on! Works for me.

There are 2 screws. The on towards the back is the high idle screw. The one toward the front is the idle screw. If the engine is warmed up, the front screw should be what you adjust. If its still cold, the back screw, providing all is working well. If you want, back them all the way out and see which one lowers it. Keep track of how many turns you back it out, so you can get it back, roughly where it belongs.

I dont do seafoam so I cant answer that. Should be on the bottle. The milky stuff is probably from it not running long/hot enough to evaporate all the condensation. I tell you what; go to a local donut store, pick me up a dozen assorted donuts and bring them up in the morning. I will have some fresh roasted, ethiopian coffee on. 3 benefits to this; I get donuts and you get coffee like you have never had it, plus you get to take your car for a much needed drive. How'd I do??

Ummm...lower the idle with the screw?

I dont think that is the case. I have yet to see an engine within the last 2 decades that was sludged up. This isnt the 60's and prior. Pretty good detergent oils these days. I surely would change the oil right away, while its hot and the crud is still suspended in the oil.

Braze it, epoxy, JB Weld? Just shooting from the hip here.

Its brand new so it shouldnt be bad. I thought I had read somewhere that a constant 12v would burn it out. Where is the charge relay and what does it look like, etc.

Ok, that stumped me. How do you charge them and where are they? [ahhh...bet he meant 'change']

Nope

I wired it to a key-on hot wire. I'm not sure that it should be getting a straight 12v? Shouldnt it go through a resistor to drop it? The choke housing gets mighty warm. Cant figure out why the original wire has no juice to it.

Uh-huh.

Ugh! I have enough already. :/

LOL...Hot Springs.

That many miles, burn in the engine whatever will stay there. I have only used napa oil for the longest time, that or Walmart oil. No oil wars here, if you really want to get that heavy into it oil discussions, go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

Old timer said its under 100K miles too.

No in the engine. Gearboxes, sure. If in doubt, I would change the gear oils. Thanks for reminding me to do mine.

I tapped the choke wire into the fuel vent solenoid wire. Now it has juice when key is on and I have a choke. Is this acceptable?? And the choke housing is supposed to get hot, correct?