Crazyeights

This thread has some info in it that might help. XT6 Crossmember Questions

Time to stop re-loading the parts cannon and do some diagnosis - testing. Is there a large resistor/heat-sink for the injection system? If so, have you checked it? It's usually in the engine compartment somewhere near the battery.

Look at it this way. The older you get, the older she gets 😁

I have enough spare parts to build a couple pretty nice EA81/EA82s lol. My 89 EA82T is still going!

I am looking at the relevant page in my EA71 parts manual. The only thing that I see between the crankshaft and pulley is the distributor drive crankshaft gear. Perhaps try removing that and then install the pulley without it as a test fit?

@pontoontodd If I may ask, your posts are always loaded with great pictures. How and where do you host them and get them to show as pictures in your threads instead of links to an off site picture on Google Drive or similar. Did you purchase more storage space at USMB? Thank you for all of your content - I enjoy following your threads.

👍 Someone here might have what you need and come forward with a solution. It has happened for me in the past. USMB is one of the best resources for our older Subarus.

It would still be custom-made, as your XT6 is an EA series whereas the Legacy is an EJ series.

It looks like you need manual trans cross-members from an XT6 with the Legacy center section for a bolt up solution. Perhaps an XT would work also? I'll have to dig out my old factory parts catalog to check. I wanted mine to use all factory parts, I remember that it took some time hunting around and waiting.

My front cross-member pictured above (with the center holes) must have been from a 5MT XT6 then? Here is another picture showing XT and Legacy cross-members - again not my photo EJ and XT cross-members It looks like the Legacy front part is basically the same but longer. Could you cut one up and weld it back together?

The middle piece is from a 93 legacy, the rear piece (XT6) can be made from a flat piece of steel. Rear part fabbed up - not my picture So, your front crossmember doesn't have the holes for the Legacy center section?

These pictures are from about 2014 when I put the car together. As I recall, it is EA82-->Legacy-->XT6, all 5MT. Does that sound right ? XT6-LEG 5mt x-member 01 XT6-LEG 5mt x-member 02

Yes, I have a couple pictures that show the franken-member. I don't have any space for pictures on here. How do I get them to you?

Find another tech.

Nice job! Thank you for taking the time to post such a useful thread! I know that it's easy to forget to stop, get cleaned off, and take pictures when I am in work mode.

@ Bennie On USMB, ----> 10 years? Yes it's possible...😁

I have a 92 Loyale with an EJ22 swap using a 93 legacy 5MT transmission and rear diff. For a cross-member I am using the EA82 front and rear, the EJ22 center-piece bolts right up to the EA82 cross-members. From what I recall, the XT6 should be similar to the EA82 generation. It's been a long time since I sold my XT6. I can put my Loyale up on the lift tomorrow and take a couple pictures of my franken-member if it would help. Do you have any pictures up anywhere? Do you have a source for another 6MT?

I have an 83 GL wagon and a 92 Loyale wagon. I EJ22 swapped both cars over 10 years ago and they both run great on the stock tanks. The fuel tanks aren't that big so I try not to run them low.

A decent scan tool and DVOM in the right hands are the first things that you will need. Like they say "some diagnosis required".

I bought a new dual mass flywheel from Subaru for mine, but they are expensive. It'll never be right if it is resurfaced. They disintegrate easily when abused, and the shrapnel can tear up the rear side of the block. We have tried a couple of conversions to a single mass flywheel at the shop and they both had problems.

That is not factory Three Bond/Fuji Bond sealant. Someone has been in there before you.

I like it! It sounds like a great project.

It's pretty common. No short cut - pull it out and fix it! Good time for a clutch too.

The pitch stop rod is a Must! You will break both motor mounts quickly with out it. Then the engine will open your hood for you

Scrap that block and bring them a better one. An EJ22E that hasn't been abused shouldn't need to be bored oversize. With the cylinders laying flat, excess bore wear usually is not a problem. Even so the odds that a smaller shop has the proper equipment, knowledge, and experience to bore one of these blocks properly is slim. Find a good running used one, rebuild the heads with new exhaust valves, seal it up with new gaskets, timing belt kit, and water pump. Leave the oil pump alone but do buy a new oil pan and pickup screen. No offense but if you are asking these type of questions then don't split the shortblock open. It won't ever run right again.