Crazyeights

I couldn't agree more with the above ^^^. I have had nothing but trouble with modifying the valve train on the EA81(T) and also the EA82. There just isn't a lot of room for for improvement without a sacrifice in some other area.. In other words in my opinion based on many EA rebuilds and repairs, it will never run properly, it will be so noisy you will be embarrassed to drive it, it will idle like crap, etc. Just my opinion, use it or burn it... Good Luck!

I have several loose N/A EA81 cams right now. It will take me a few to round them up, if helpful. I am not sure solid, hydro, etc.

What he said ^^^ works great! Follow up with some WD-40 or something to prevent surface corrosion if you care...

Cover the carb or intake too and go to town!

Slow down, true. Also tune it to perfection!

I use Loctite 518 flange sealer on the case halves.

It will take me a while to read EVERY update in this thread, but rest assured that I will. I think one reason that people do not comment on your threads very much is because there isn't much left to add. Your work covers every detail. I can't wait to try your injector cleaning procedure on some old ones to test it out. I saved some pretty clogged ones from past repairs.

Nice job! It makes me want to order a set of rockers before they are gone for good

I rebuild an EA82 last year and it has yet to leak so it can be done. Try a new oil pump or a different low mileage used one. I would probably not choose RTV for an oil pan. I would try Ultra Gray, "The Right Stuff", Ford OEM Oil Pan sealer, Toyota Black, etc. With the correct gaskets, o-rings, seals and sealers, they can be totally tight. At least for 50 - 60k or so...

Push rods on a Hydro EA81 are steel, not aluminum...

Awesome Thank you for sharing this!

Many times, especially by the Subaru guys in Australia.

I usually used a blunt end small pick (hint paper clip opened up) to guide or walk the seal lip carefully around the sealing surface while fitting and positioning it. This way you don't fold the inner lip of the seal over the wrong way without noticing and ruin the seal. Just a tip, feel free to use it or toss it out as needed

Pros = Slightly more power than a stock EA82T Cons = Service life reduced to about 17 minutes

What can say but, ..... AWESOME! Thank you for doing this.

Looks nice! Is it stock? Have you done any modifications, or do you plan to? Welcome to USMB Thank you for sharing the picture

It could be done, but I doubt it would end well. "hair, teeth, and eyeballs" all over the street

That rugged setting makes for a cool picture too ^^^! You could probably sell the print for more than the Brat in the right circle

If the measurement is below specifications do you make it up with the head gasket thickness, or do you get new heads?

The XT6 flywheel is about 4 pounds lighter than the regular EA82 version if that helps.

These old manuals are somewhat important to me. I do not want them altered in the process (IE cut up to scan). The offer is open to any regular user here (in good standings) with the proper stuff to do it. I'll send them right out. You can get started right after the Super Bowl! I will not PM anyone and ask. The first person with the correct stuff can contact me. My email is jeff@newsguy.com (works about 50% of the time) or you can PM me and ask for a cell number or an address.

We seem to have at least two people that want to act like children. I am a profesional certified tech running a 3 bay shop by myself. I also manage and maintain about 30 personal vehicles in my off time. To say I am busy is an understatement. I enjoy this place and I offer what I can. I have over 30 years of documented experience, full time work. I also have the papers to back it up. What are YOUR qualifications if I may ask? These manuals and many more are waiting ready to be mailed to someone that is ready to take on the task. I do not have the time. I also do not have time for your jokes. It looks like you are older than I am. Perhaps you should act your age. I assume you will follow with another round of childish insults. I can take it, really, go ahead if will boost your self esteem. I will give me a snicker that I am stuck in your butt for the day while I enjoy the sunshine Perhap you could stay out of my threads, go and create your own. I'll stay out of yours. If you sense a "bit of an attitude" on my part let me apologize. The staff on here is fully aware that one of the current moderators (in good standing) has absolutely no problem sleeping at night after ripping me off for $2000.00 I never really got over that...

This attempt to share rare and out of print factory documents has sure has gone to hell in a hurry. Would one of the mods please lock this thread now before it turns in to a real pissing match? The original idea was for me to WASTE MORE TIME helping people on here for FREE.

I spend plenty of time here offering advice for free. I ask for very little help in return. Check my post history if you must. I did not ask for your opinion or your rain cloud sir. So, with all do respect, KINDLY SCREW OFF!

I think it may be getting a bit to formal and over complitcated here. Just take the big red or black/white and hook it up to battery (+) or the positive cable and use a 15 or 20 amp fuse to protect it. Never mind the fuse link stuff. The other wire (smaller) is key (+) positive or power only with the key on. There may be one other wire that needs to be connected to the starter or crank (+) wire. Thats really it as I remember in a nut shell... Good Luck