Crazyeights

^^^ What he said. Try and think safety. If the left front strut fails on the freeway, game over...

I would probably start with a rust conversion product like POR-15 on the affected areas.

I just use (2) dummy sockets or spacers to do the torque procedure. Once you are all set just pull those spacers and replace with the rocker assembly. You really don't need that socket if you use perma-torque gaskets.

What that shop might be trying to tell you is that the repair is "too risky" in their eyes to take on, or that they can't justify putting a tech on it unless they make good money on it and won't get it back. I have done this same job with a proper MLS head machine, T/B, W/P, idlers, T/Stat, Tune up, etc for about $1800 or so on a phase 2. I'm not sure what a phase 1 2.5 goes for off of the top of my head, but I agree. You can probably do much better price wise. With the last few that I have had in for clutches or head gaskets I find it easier working by myself to pull the engine and do it all at once.

Perhaps it IS axle quality. I am working from an OLD stock pile of J/Y axles and parts I have saved over the years. Mostly factory stuff. Also some DTA 8606's I think. Anyway, looks good to me too. My EA81 wagon is FT 4WD with a custom 3.9 RX trans and a CLSD rear. Is your car FWD most of the time perhaps? That might explain why I am not shredding them as fast. Anyway I hope you resolve it soon. Good Luck.

Congratulations and Well Done!

I am still working on the interior. The shifter work was made a LOT easier thanks to SubaruTex's thread leading the way here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/78476-ej-shifter-fix-ea-ej-swapped-cars/ The Legacy shifter mod worked great with only a couple of minor changes. I wanted the rear shifter mount to be able to float fore and aft on a rubber bushing like the factory used. Due to the difference in trans tunnel design between the EA82 and the Legacy there isn't ANY extra room in there to use the stock Legacy shifter mount like I had wanted to. I also didn't want to cut the factory Loyale shifter opening in the floor without a solid plan in place first. I made this up quickly out of the parts bucket. This way the car stays running and I wasn't wasting shop time fabbing something up with the car in the air. It is safe, solid, and functional so it is good enough for now. I also added a 5 mil plastic vapor barrier under the insulation but over the metal to keep moisture from getting to the back side of the carpet. I found a combination of plastic that fits as a shifter surround and I'm pretty pleased with it. I was trying to make it look like the factory could have made it. The trip computer installation should be complete soon including the dash display. At first the clock and outside temp will work. The other functions may have to wait until later. The dealer was still able to get the new mini light bulbs to make the dash LCD display function again. I even have the outside temp sensor to mount in the grill So far no fault codes after almost a week. I am really liking this conversion a lot! No more trouble going up hills or getting up to freeway speed. I just about ready to mount the ECU and finish tidying up the interior.

It Lives! It sure is a lot more fun to drive now!

I actually put this N/A EJ22E engine in with EJ22T manifolds and water pump installed to make sure they would all clear the frame and they do! The EJ22T in my garage slated for this project may still find it's way under the hood someday. Ya, I really DO have one But for now, Under the 'neath! I had the XT6 cross member parts to make the trans bolt in properly and that worked out great. Now with all of the major pieces installed I could take some final measurements for the rear drive-shaft. I had read that the center section had to be shortened by 55mm to make it fit properly. I wanted to double check this dimension before sending my only drive shaft out to be cut down. Drivelines Northwest in downtown Seattle gets the "props" for doing some fine work, quickly, and at the right price too! Thank you!

Next, time to pull out the old tired EA82 and trans to make room for the new EJ22 and it's 5 speed EJ companion. Motors and stuff everywhere What a mess! Stay Tuned...

Progress has been made I gave up (for now) trying to find a way to mate the EA82 rear axles in the Loyale to the inner DOJ's on the 2001 Legacy GT VLSD rear I was going to use. I picked up an open 4.11 rear end out of an earlier Legacy with stubs and cleaned it up. The rear end ratio has to match the EJ 5 speed trans that is about to go in. So, with missing link installed, all I needed to do is wait for a slow day and "pull the trigger" on the EJ swap.

Yes, you have a good engine!

I have the SJR 4" lift installed for several years now in my EA81 wagon. No problems with cv's or boots for a long time and mine has an EJ22 in it. Something must be wrong, pics?

The EA82T is heavier and not any more reliable than the EA81T was. This would be a down grade in my opinion. Is the stock engine no longer saveable? Those are somewhat rare. Good Luck!

You can fix this in the car if it's just the axles seals and o-rings. Pull the front axle first. Next, carefully mark the large nut holding the seal and bearing race in. Next remove the retaining bolt and clamp. Unscrew the large nut and drive the seal out from the inside, change the large o-ring on the outside of the large nut too. Put it all back together, no more gear oil smell coming in the heater! Do put that large nut back EXACTLY in the same position and number of turns for you may risk destroying the ring and pinion gears.

Have you tried another knock sensor? I wonder if the ECU is pulling back the timing.

I just watched the videos. It sounds like it's only running on about 3 cylinders. Does it feel like a "miss", or more like a banana in the tail pipe?

I just did one this week with an EJ engine/trans in to an EA82 body. The one I used was a rod style. I sliced it roughly in half and had it welded back together beside itself (shortened and offset). It fits perfectly. I actually found the idea here in another thread.

Still not fixed yet?

I have some of these digital dashes (all amber I think) on the bench in unknown condition with some pigtals and diagrams, I have been waiting for a slow winter to play with these. I am interested in any progress you might make in powering them up.

Pull the exhaust down first and see if the guides dropped? Just a thought.

I have the two dash diagrams (DL/GL-Loyale) in front of me now comparing the differences. It really wouldn't be too hard to do if someone cared enough to spend the time to swap the wires around in the two round connectors. You would probably need to add a circuit or two for the gauges that don't exist in the DL style dash. The center module wiring (rectangle connectors) are also totally different. Lots of variations too, auto, manual, 4wd, ect.

Thank you for this, even though I'm about 5 years late to the party! I did swap the part on the trans also as suggested. It does eliminate the need for welding.

The XT6 rear hub uses a cone-washer style with a castle nut for the axle. The Forester axle uses a big flat washer and nut.

You can use a drill and a belt around the outside of the chuck in a pinch (be careful). You can spin the p/s pump up plenty fast enough to flush out the system.