Crazyeights

It will not "drop right in" without serious modifications and it would be a downgrade in my opinion. More research is required. You're at the right place. Let your fingers do the walkin' as they say. You have SO MANY options.

MPFI EA81? I have been gathering parts for a similar "EA81T" build. I have two blocks going together now.

Looks great! More details please

Turn signal relay unplugged or miss-plugged near the steering column under the dash I doesn't look like a regular flasher, it looks like a relay as I recall. Good Luck!

I would NOT do it. The valve train will always be noisy, it WILL NOT work properly (at least to my satisfaction) with the SPFI. You can not tune the issues out either, as in it will never idle correctly, low end hesitations cold, ect. Use a stock cam and look at tire size, engine mechanical condition, gearing, power:weight ratio, ect. There are lots of other avenues to explore for more power besides the cams. Have fun and post pictures please!

It really DOES work

Nice! Congratulations on the upgrade. One of the easiest things that you can do is keep the ENTIRE cooling system in top working order. This includes the quality and quantity of the antifreeze mixture. Keep the oil clean and change it on time religiously. Stop at the sign of serious problems and take time to evaluate the situation should something ever happen in the future. Enjoy the new ride!

Can't wait for LOTS of pictures. Good Luck!

Respectfully, not a chance. Fluids, motor mounts, flywheel & clutch parts, seals, gaskets, thermostat, hoses, oil & filter, exhaust, connectors, un-forseen problems by the dozen, radiator, timing belt & water pump, on and on... It all ads up fast. By all means do it, but preparation is the key to a really nice job. The budget will have to be expanded especially if it needs to be done in a weekend.

Take the plugs out and rock the crank pulley back and forth with a breaker bar and a socket. You can actually "feel" a bad rod bearing this way sometimes. Next, screw your compression gauge in to each cylinder and see if you can build some pressure in each cylinder by hand using the breaker bar. If you like what you see so far take a look at the cams and then pull the oil pan and check the pick-up screen for debris.

I have a Snap On MG31 and it works great.

Good Deal!

Sounds like perhaps the wrong axle was used. I am thinking a turbo 25 spline axle (inner DOJ) was used on the 23 spline D/R stub. With the correct axle installed you can put a nail in the roll pin hole and bend it over to get home. Something ELSE must be wrong... Good Luck. I have a spare stub if you need it. It's always a good time to learn how to split a tranny [EDIT] I just noticed that it is lifted. All that goes out the window if the geometry of the lift is incorrect. Details and pics needed.

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No, you don't. The position on that big lock ring is critical though. Get this wrong and you can kill the trans in short order. Mark the location of the ring nut relative to the case. Take out the one retaining bolt and clip, count the turns out. Change the seal and the o-ring. Use electrical tape on the splines so the new seal survives the installation. Put it all back the same way you took it apart, done. No more terrible smell in the heater vents! Enjoy a cold one.

Nice car! I don't think the EJ suspension swap will work as easily as planned. Parts are available for your car, shipping them to you might cost a lot lot though.

In my opinion the best way to address this is a nice properly done SPFI swap. That way all of the original stuff can come off in one huge lump for some later purpose. Trust me you will NOT miss that old carb for a second. The other solution would be a Weber conversion (much less work). Have fun and please post more pics of rest of the car!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Here a possible clue to the problem. Is it wired EXACTLY right? Why wasn't a direct fit unit selected instead? Is it the same code as before?

I wanted both sets of inner DOJ cups (23 spline EA82 and 25 spline EA82T/EJ22) on hand to fit the Impreza front axles I am using. That should help keep the future engine and trans swap "down-time" to a minimum. That takes care of the front for now. More to come soon ...

Here is a picture of the donor car that the front suspension parts came from. The front brakes consist of Loyale calipers on EJ knuckles, rotors, pads, and caliper brackets. It works by using one of the Loyale caliper pins on the EJ bracket. A big "Thank You" to the member that figured this out first in another post. I like this for now because you can retain the front E-Brake. I ended up using EA81 outer tie rod ends so that the toe could be adjusted properly.

Time for a quick update. The 5 lug swap is complete. The modified EA82T ("Turbo") front engine cross-member with XT6 front lower control arms is installed. The brake system upgrades/modifications are finished for now too. I put in new lower ball joints as well. I cleaned up some Legacy 14" steel rims so that I could retain the same tires short term. They are 185/70-R14's. I have several thousand miles on this configuration now and it feels great. A quick look at the interior; So far so good! Details to follow soon with some more pictures.

I am also interested in this and I have (2) of the orange clusters. Would you share some pointers on troubleshooting the digital clusters on the bench?

It looks great! It's not easy to mask around all of the lines, harnesses, and grommets. Your attention to detail shows. Thank you for sharing the pictures.

Air horn tank from a large truck works well.

How far have you driven it (miles), or doesn't it run well enough to drive yet?