Crazyeights

Check the end play on the crank. You want to make sure the thrust bearing on the crank isn't lunch.

I wouldn't. The EA82T really is a downgrade in my opinion from the original EA81 engine . A quick search on this site will yield all the info you need to make the best choice if a swap is really desired. There are better alternatives available that make more power, are more reliable, and cost less money.

I had no idea those came out that easily. Thanks for the research and the tip!

You are correct it seems. So far every one I have stripped down has worked too. I have yet to try the other method yet, and I do see your points.

That has to be a fun ride!

IMO any excess sealer just makes a mess anyway. I would also use a medium strength Loctite on the flexplate to crankshaft bolts upon re-assembly. It looks great, good job! What did you use to get the screws out of the wrist pin cover, an impact screwdriver perhaps? I usually have to give them a pretty good smart with a punch before they come loose for me.

+1 for trying the dealer. I just ordered a set not long ago myself.

In the 30+ years that I have been doing this I can't ever remember a "mission critical" left handed torque situation. Of course as always YMMV. I'm not trying to talk you out of the digital one. I just know in my shop with no heat on a cold morning the damn LCD screen won't work any better than my cordless butane soldering iron. Is there heat in your shop all winter? Good Luck!

1) I have no idea. However, during normal use and with proper care, I feel that re-calibrating a torque wrench for hobby-auto use is overkill. Don't even worry about it. I have a Snap-On torque wrench that is 30 years old, used often and professionally, and it still works fine to this day. Torque putty and instrument calibration are more common in higher pay grade situations (IE Aircraft repair) 2) Hardly ever do I find myself with the need to torque left-handed fasteners. It does happen but not often. Again, don't over think it - you will probably NEVER need this. 3) Personally I have NO desire to own Torque wrenches with either a battery or an LCD screen. I need mine to work EVERY time I pick them up. I am a little old fashioned and impatient with things that are over-complicated or designed to fail right out of the gate (IMHO). Again, just buy (2) good ones to start out with. First, a 1/2 drive for the larger stuff, and next a 3/8 drive unit for the smaller fasteners. When you get good with these and you turn super anal, treat yourself to a 1/4 drive unit for the detail work if you so desire (my advice here is to choose a unit that will read constant turning torque - for setting bearing pre-load). 4) Always clean them EACH and EVERY time when you are done using them. Return them to the original storage case. Keep them inside your home or garage, not bouncing around in the trunk of your car! They will last for many years if you shop right and care for them properly. 5) Learn about the difference between torquing in aluminum vs iron. Torque sequence, angle, intermediate steps needed, and bolt stretch are also important factors. You should be familiar with the cause, effects, and remedies for thread galling. Next, the effect of Loctite, vs a lubricant (antisieze, light weight oil, ect) and when to use which one. Also don't EVER "hydro-loc" a fastener with too much assembly oil and gun the bolt in. You can actually pop the back side out of a threaded hole in a casting this way! I have seen it done on a Friday afternoon... 6) Finally, the use of extensions and adapters can also effect torque, as will the use of universal joints. All of these things need to be considered during assembly. I would also invest time to learn about threads, thread pitches, and torque angles. Also, all threads of any type have to be perfectly matched, chased, cleaned, and lubricated or sealed before the torque wrench even comes out of the box. These are my opinions only. Please take them with a grain or two of salt and above all else HAVE FUN!

For me it makes the time spent at the wrecking yard for parts just a few minutes. I used to have to spend half a Saturday whorking the whole dash out of some moldy junker for $20.00 worth of old wiring. Next, spend another 2+ hours stripping out 90 percent of the crap I didn't really want anyway.

Scooner, I had already planned on doing all further harnesses this way and then I found your post. I am glad to know it works for you. Thanks for the tips.

The rusted old Legacy is the perfect donor car to EJ22 swap your old GL. It's worth it IMO if you can do most of the labor yourself. Having access to the Leg during the swap will save trips to the yard. Or just sell it on... Good luck!

Right here in the PNW too.

I have seen factory VW turbo setups with a small intercooler mounted by the RF tire in the front fender area. I don't see any reason why your idea wouldn't work just fine too as long as you do the homework first. I think this was on a Turbo Beetle I put an engine in now that I think of it. Perhaps you can look at pics of one of those for ideas.

Wow

An old seatbelt works great in a pinch for an engine bridle. They are very strong.

One small detail that is easy to overlook is the radius arm mounting plates. The auto trans plates on your car don't have the attachment point for the manual trans cross-member. You'll need to grab a set of these from the donor car too. The swap is well worth it IMO.

In most of the older harnesses that I have worked on I have noticed that the shielding is sometimes left floating at one end and connected to ground on the other. I have no idea if this helps you or not. I just happened to have several harnesses open at the moment.

These are all great solutions. Thanks for the EA82 <--> EJ22 ideas. I have two of those swaps going right now.

Looks Great!

I cut the flexible sections off of EJ pump's lines leaving only the metal sections at the pump. I silver soldered some old brass fittings on to those EJ lines. Standard EA PS lines bolt right up now. Future repairs will just take stock EA P/S lines from now on. I have several thousand miles on this setup and it works great. I will be happy to snap a quick picture if you keep hounding me about it This is on my 1983 GL FT/4WD Wagon with an EJ22 and power steering. All the hard and soft lines after the pump are stock EA. The lines at the cross-member are a little tight but it fits like a glove. You can sort of see some of it in these pics. I'll snap a quick picture of the modified lines up top this weekend if I get time.

I used to build V8 Vegas with both small block Chevs and Buick 215's. We used to have trouble ripping the unibody apart at the spot welds in the front end unless it was welded up first. I twisted one body pretty badly before I learned this lesson (broke the windshield too ) What you are proposing most certainly be done but it probably won't be easy or cheap if you want it to turn out. I would learn how to weld and fabricate as you will basically be building as custom one-off car with an old Sub shell grafted on top. Take lots of pics and have fun! I would scout around in the junk yards and look at other builds for ideas.

Add air, add fuel, keep it cool and don't blow it up If it's an EA82 keep it full of oil and shift at 4500 rpm. You might even develop a soft spot for the old engine. Especially when you realize that they are too dumb to die. My vote is -to heck with the old factory specs. Even with premium and who knows what for fuel these days.... They used to run these engines in small aircraft. If you can manage to blow it up on pump gas then it was ready to go anyway IMHO. Run a smaller tire size, gear down, and HAVE FUN for cheap!!!

I think it might have been from an old trailer hitch. That makes me smile too. First gear up the pass in the snow at five grand doing 14 mph pulling a trailer. Yeah, we have all worn that hat at least once 90 HP on it's best day and lucky if the head gaskets last past the first timing belt interval. Oh well just stay runnin' for a few more months... The radiator was plugged solid when I bought the car. I didn't really realize it and TBH I didn't care either. Until it blew the entire end tank off of the passenger side on my lunch break WHAT A MESS! Now it has a shiny new brass one a few months early. The old EA82 chugs on at almost 30 mpg....

After reading everything I could find about the 5 lug conversion process (most of it all from here) I started gathering parts. I ended up doing the brake upgrade at the same time. I wanted a spare front cross-member to modify for XT6 front lower control arms. I figured I might as well start with a Turbo cross-member to keep my engine upgrade options open down the road (remember the talk about the EJ swap) Two cuts had to be made on each side in the pocket area to provide enough clearance so that the XT6 LCA's won't rub. The metal was peeled up slightly (about 1/4 inch) and re-welded. I liked this option better than tacking on washers, although that would have worked too. It works and looks pretty good too. More to follow...