Crazyeights
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Everything posted by Crazyeights
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A quick tack weld on the bolt head like mentioned above would also be a really good solution (and quite reversible). I think you could be quick enough to not worry about the heat. -
I would go for option one, option two would also work but probably isn't necessary. I would pass on option 3, too risky.
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Great find! I like the color too. It looks like it is cleaning up nicely.
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Port available to water temp sender?
Crazyeights replied to Idasho's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I should have an extra block heater adapter that screws in to the front of the block where the large plugs are. This would at least provide a large threaded hole to adapt to. Yours in an envelope if you want it (just PM a mailing address). -
Engine R&R/Swap for 92 Loyale
Crazyeights replied to Fullagas's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If the EA82 is a N/A one it will probably last forever once rebuilt. -
An SVX swap won't help with the EJ22T up-pipe though, will it?
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If you do choose the EA82T cross member the lower control arm pockets will likely be a problem. The bushing area on the lower control arm will probably rub, and the XT6 bolts won't fit unless you drill the holes out. It might just be easier to notch out the XT6 cross member to clear the EJ22T exhaust. I don't know about the XT4 part.
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This sounds like exactly what I am going through right now with mine. Thanks for the tips and good luck! I really like the Outback wheels too, they must be 16"?
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Have you checked the fluid level and condition yet?
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After years of fighting these with a straight punch I finally bought the correct Subaru axle pin tool. This REALLY helps a lot. If you don't have one I recommend getting it. If you can just get one joint apart on each side then you can pull the whole trailing arm and work it on the bench if you have to. You are also going to need a socket to get the rear bearing nut off. I couldn't find the correct 4 pin one so I found one that was close and ground 2 pins off.
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Looks great! Are you using XT6 knuckels, or Impreza on the front? Can you share specifics on the front struts?
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Congrats on the Hatch! I always wanted to EA81T one of those but the bodies are too hard to find.
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Over the 30 or so years that I have been building and installing engines I have seen this happen a few times (to me and other techs). There doesn't seem to be a concrete reason and it usually never happens again once fixed and re-started. This isn't Subaru specific though. Hopefully it didn't cause any damage.
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It looks like the factory did it. Good work!
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If it's a turbo how about an exhaust temp gauge?
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If you have tried all the normal bleeding tricks and still no luck the core may be partially plugged. You can try reversing the hoses but it rarely helps.
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+1 on the VHT high temp. Surface prep counts too. Also, try to clean off road salts ASAP. Think about it this way. Every time a boat comes in from a salt water run you wash it off with a fresh water hose to keep it nice. Cars rarely get this type of treatment but it does help.
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Body 1983 GL Wagon Engine '93 Legacy EJ22 with SJR adapter and drilled XT6 flywheel and clutch Transmission RX FT 4WD Dual range 5sp, center locking diff, XT6 3.9 Ring and Pinion, 23 spline axle stubs, and complete seal kit Suspension 4" SJR Lift Wheels 15" Alloy Pugs with repro lug nuts and Firestorm Winter Force tires Misc Ebay UEL OBX Header with custom exhaust, rear disc brake conversion, custom drive-line with "Jerry's Kit" cross-member, mounts and shifters, RX Clutch style LSD converted to 3.9, power window conversion. power remote mirror option added, tinted side windows, slant radio console,
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I already pulled everything to get to the rear control arms so the rear disc stuff is sitting there for the taking. The calipers, brackets, and pads look good, the hubs are good, The yard bent the crap out the backing plates though. Grab 'em quick if you need it!
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It's probably Speed Density vs Mass Air Flow. On the older GM's I remember a Prom update that bypassed the MAF and turn the system in to SD You left the MAF in place and the kit included a sticker that said it was no longer in use
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I pried mine off with a forked end door panel tool.
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The complete section all the way back to the firewall, not just the instrument cluster. Has anyone tried this? I imagine the HVAC stuff would also have to be changed.
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Go ahead and use the 200k pistons. Measure the diameter at the skirt to make sure they aren't too badly collapsed. As long as they aren't "creamed" they will be fine. I have torn down MANY EA's and EJ's and I've never had to cut the ridge on one yet simply because there isn't any. Remember this isn't an "inline or V" configuration engine. Upper cylinder wear in N/A Subaru engines is usually very minimal. Thompson-Engines on Ebay has a really good price on ITM piston and ring sets for the older Subarus. For about $150.00 you can replace them all if you are worried. That is the way I went on my last couple of builds and it worked out very well. The EA82 I just finished has about 5k on it now and it's bone dry underneath and runs like a watch.
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I've built LOTS of EA81's. Just break the glaze on the cylinders with a ball hone (if even that) and install your used SPFi pistons with new rings. Don't worry about a ridge, with the cylinders on the side like they are they almost don't wear at all. I always tend to run premium in my custom builds because I like to push the timing a little more advanced than stock. Either .010 or .020 from the heads will be fine but the valve train geometry is very finicky on these engines. My advice is to run the stock cam especially if your running SPFI or you could end up with unwanted noise or incurable low end drive-ability issues.
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I am convinced that some of it has to do with the maintenance the car receives. Perhaps it's partly do to taking good care of your car, IE maintaining the cooling system and performing repairs at the first sign of trouble or even before.
