Crazyeights

I have the SJR Lift 4 inch EA81 kit installed on my '83 wagon with an EJ22 swap (adapter also SJR). I can't speak highly enough about the SJR products,

Regarding the high idle situation with the EA81 SPFI swap, you might need to back off just a small amount on the idle hard stop set screw on the throttle body (the one you aren't normally supposed to touch ).

I would start by going through the entire cooling system with a fine tooth comb. Replace ALL the hoses, do the head gaskets if they are leaking, new water pump and dealer thermostat if the history is unknown. Also make sure the radiator isn't plugged up with deposits and the cooling fans are working properly. Lastly, congrats! Would you care to share a few pics?

In my opinion rebuilding one of these (EA82) NA and stock is probably worth doing if you just need a good reliable machine that gets fair mileage. It will ALWAYS be underpowered. Putting more than a dime in to one of these engines for any type of performance upgrade is money and effort that should probably go to an EJ swap in my opinion. I rebuilt the EA82 in my '88 because I already had most of the parts left over from other projects. I also need it to be dependable and leak free until I decide what to do with this car (project wise). Good Luck!

I just finished an EA82 rebuild. New pistons and rings, main and rod bearings, all seals and gaskets, ect. I went stock on everything and it's quiet and runs well. You could have Delta do some re-ground torque cams for it, but I have never used them on an EA82 so can't speak for them.

Standard EA81 heads can be drilled and fitted with injector bosses if you want to run multi-port. This way you don't have to hunt down the almost impossible to find EA81T heads. Most machine shops should be able to do it. If you run in to trouble, RAM Engines can do it for you.

These are the only alternatives that I know of (taper to ball seat adapter washers). http://www.brandsport.com/excl-793.html Although they do work, I am not sure how safe they are. I opted for the repro's from the "Pug Lug" thread on here and they work great.

Sorry if I started the thread off on a wrong turn. I was just stating what works easier for me.

No need to worry about the cams either. In fact you may have an easier time getting it to idle properly with the stock cam grind.

I would watch them carefully. I have seen belt separations and sidewall failures on older tires, even on new ones that have been in storage for a number of years.

I would suggest going here http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/EA2EJ.pdf and spending some time reading You will either need to mate the EJ with the EA tranny using an adapter plate, or grab the rear end that matches the EJ trans and install that too, One way or another the rear end ratio has to match the trans final drive ratio. Good Luck

There should be a relay and control unit under the carpet behind the seat on the floor board. There is most likely a problem in this area (corroded and or burned wire, ect). It might be an easy fix.

+1 for the Centric Posi Quiet ceramic too.

I really like the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads. They are probably a PD311 and PD314 Front and Rear.

Car Tech in Lynnwood did a nice job on mine. Ask for Haffo, he knows the older cars REALLY well. He does on site work also. I am not affiliated with them at all, just a happy customer.

This is the ticket in my opinion. EA82T pistons should work also.

I have a brand new set (dealer NOS) in standard size as well as a good used set.

I spent quite a few years building V8 Vegas and Monzas. In my opinion this isn't a good plan. Perhaps build an EJ and try that first. You may be quite surprised how well that swap works out. Adding a heavy V8 to that small car will create serious handling, steering, and stopping problems. You will basically end up building a new car around the engine to support the added power and weight.

I am a Tech full time. I use Nitrile gloves everyday, all the time. They help keep the grease and dirt off of your hands. More importantly, they help stop or at least slow the chemicals and solvents that we use daily from soaking in to your body through the skin on your hands. It takes a while to get used to working with them but it's worth it IMO.

What do you think about using a Zinc additive in the oil on solid lifter engines?

Sure, I am finally just getting back to this. I'll take a few more pics and update soon.

I am pretty sure the Roller/HLA EJ22 was only done for a short time in '96 and '97.

How did you find an insurance company to protect yourself?

It's probably connected to ported vacuum. Check it for vacuum during off-idle or part throttle conditions.

In my opinion, try a stock EJ22 first an see how you like it. A 150k used but re-sealed and belted EJ will have SO MUCH power in that car compared with what you are used to. I have an '83 Wagon with an EJ22, 4 inch lift, 15 inch wheels/tires, FT 4WD, LSD rear, and it has more that enough power for me. You can always swap the EJ22 short block with an EJ25D if you need more power after that.