Crazyeights

SPFI Guide

Stuck on the dowel pin? Perhaps try some penetrating oil, and then carefully work your way around the gap with a couple of pry bars.

Nice cold winter morning and the ball end of a ball peen hammer to loosen it up seems to help.

Looks like the ones I have. I think you'll be all set. Great find:banana:

I have both the '83 FSM (needs the supplement for Turbo specific data) and the '84 FSM contains everything without needing the supplement. The parts catalogs are similar, '83 covers all but the EA81T and the '84 parts catalog has everything. I would be willing to look up some things for you if you get stuck, don't have the time to scan large passages though. Good Luck!

You could pull both hoses off and connect some short tubes up to the heater core itself. Get some liquid drain cleaner (the kind that is safe for plastic pipes - NOT the acid type). Fill the core with it and let it sit. Flush it both ways with water and give it a try. If it doesn't work or worse yet ruins your heater core and carpet - You have been warned:brow: Good Luck!

Actually Full Synth might make the shifts even worse, you could try Red-Line NS or even Subaru Extra-S. As far as the engine goes I am not sure. I have pretty good luck with regular Dino oil in the older Subs and mixed results with full synth. Good Luck!

Well, there is LOTS of information here but you will have to dig around for it. Several of us have done mods to the EA series trans. Although I haven't done exactly what you are talking about, I did swap a 3.9 Ring and Pinion from an XT6 donor trans in to my 3.7 F/T box. I also swapped 23 spline front stubs at the same time. I have been through a couple of D/R boxes too. I just did the synchros on 1st and 2nd and I can tell you you'll need a press and a torch to get some of the gears swapped (not sure about 4th and 5th). Good luck and do document and share if you go forward. Here is a thread with some pics to get you started. As far as parts I would just source a donor trans. Might as well plan on doing ALL the seals while your at it. RX Teardown

Great info on the sealed bearings! IMO stay away from semi met pads if you have alloy wheels or you'll be cleaning the nasty black brake dust off of them every week. Try a higher end ceramic pad or a Wagner Thermo Quiet like the PD314, ect. Just my opinion so if you wish!

The Nissan Maxima alternator swap does seem to help with this, assuming your connections are clean and tight. The trip computer display lamps are two TINY incandescent bulbs. I just ordered two for mine and Subaru could still get them.

I personally use Loctite 518 Anaerobic or equivalent.

The HF one should work fine. I have used it many times.

In my opinion something that will measure up to 650 - 700 degrees F should work.

Your car and swap looks great! I just picked up a Red wagon similar to yours.

Since this thread is 6 years old I imagine GD has moved on to EJ swaps by now. I fought this same battle a coupe years ago and I finally gave up right after it ate the intake lobe on the re-ground cam at about 5000 miles. Are you dealing with a stock or performance grind cam?

I just used a drill motor on slow speed with a small amount of lapping compound on the seat only. Just chuck up the valve on the spring end (with the spring off), and do a few slow speed spins on both directions. It works great. I never did have any luck with the suction cup style.

There is a lot to be said for this option too. It is more work but well worth it. You will never look back!

I just finished an SPFI EA82 rebuild. I went with an ITM piston, pin, and ring kit from Thompson engine on Ebay. I used a Felpro gasket set, new water pump, and a complete timing belt and component kit. I replaced the oil pump with a good used one I already had. As far as head work I just lapped in the valves myself, installed new stem seals and had them both surfaced. I also had the cylinder block decks surfaced as well when it went in for the hone and pressure wash. The crank was polished and standard size bearings were used. I took a fair amount of pictures so if you need something specific let me know. So far it has about a 1000 miles on it and runs like a dream. I would also recommend checking or replacing the radiator, using a NEW FACTORY SUBARU thermostat, and replacing EVERY cooling system hose. In your case I would recommend pressure testing both of the cylinder heads. I didn't do this because I wasn't loosing coolant prior to the rebuild. Good Luck

Have you verified that the fuel pressure is correct with gauge?

I really like the 518 too. I have done several EA series case halves with it and a few 5MT trans cases. None of them leak a drop.

I have had 1/2 a ton of wood pellets(1000 lbs) in the back of a gen 2 brat. It is MAXED OUT at that point. I wouldn't drive very far or fast like that but it can be done. For any distance I would personally limit the payload to 500-800 pounds at the most.

I know this feeling exactly! I have an '83 GL with a 4" lift and when the right rear shock failed it did the same thing. It actually felt like the rear end would hop slightly sideways over bumps at speed. New shocks on the rear fixed mine. I hope the struts and springs did it for you.

Just some kindly offered advice. Do make doubly sure it will take the pressure and hasn't been degraded from moisture on the inside. Portable air tanks have expiration dates on them and they can easily kill you if they burst Air horn tanks from big trucks are great for this too.

That's looking great! I like that color too. Perhaps a little Naval Jelly would shine up those wheels a bit.

Good Job! I know the feeling - I felt the same way the first time I took my EJ'ed 83 Wagon around the block:D