Crazyeights

You can also use a pair of needle nose pliers in a pinch. Just put the tips of the pliers in the notches of the caliper piston, push in and turn at the same time.

@grossgary Have you done the Delta torque grind cams on an SPFI EA82? Are they noisier than the stock grind? Are there any irritating drivability issues?

Subscribed! Thanks for the pics and details.

Nice! What size tires you have on the Pugs?

An 88 wagon should have an EA82 1.8 liter OHC engine. Yes they do have timing belts (2 of them actually), and in my opinion they are pretty reliable as long as you get the one WITHOUT a turbo like the SPFI you are looking at. In my opinion timing belt replacement on these is about as easy as it gets. Common issues have been gone over on here many times. Everything you want or need to know can be found with just a little searching. Good Luck!

I'm sorry to hear that. Some people sure don't have any respect for other peoples property. I am sure it will turn out when you are done with it though. Looking forward to updated pics!

Hood scoop? Looks great! Details please

Just a quick question for you, BTW the car looks GREAT! How did you lower it when it had the 4 lug suspension (before the 5 lug swap) ?

Perhaps the inner cups for an EJ axle will fit on an EA inner joint. You can probably make this work by mixing and matching axle parts. Is this RWD only? If not do you also have the matching trans (with 4.44 front diff) installed?

Looks Great, especially for the price

I also make sure to leave at least 1 of the lugs on a few turns so the tire/wheel doesn't hit, damage, or hurt someone/something when it comes loose.

I would look at Urethane and separate clear-coat vs Acrylic. It works very well and is quite forgiving in the event you need to fix a mistake, ect.

Sorry, I missed that this was about a Gen 1.

I second that. I tried it upon seeing it in his thread (TheLoyale) and it works great!

It's a single bolt on the top of the rear suspension tube in the center, pointing up at the bottom of the body. Somewhere close to the front of the rear diff I think.

IMO if you are going to use a gasket, as said above cover each side with a THIN coating of the proper sealer, clean all of the bolts and holes, and use a medium strength loctite. You have to be careful not to over-tighten the bolts with this type of gasket as it does not have the torque limiting rings around each bolt hole. The loctite helps them stay put at a low torque. I have had good success both ways (with and without gasket).

Same goes for the trans

It acts as a clutch return spring as I recall. You may want to rig a return spring of your own at the clutch fork if you pull the cable. Other than that you shouldn't notice anything.

That's great info, thanks!

I wish I had known about this when I did my '93 harness;) So, you don't have to pull the dash and HVAC stuff to strip out an OBD II harness? Any preferred years to watch for or avoid?

The S10's are great little trucks and yours looks really nice. The 2.2 heads love to crack so watch for that next time you have it apart. I've lost count how many of those I've worked on over the years. There is LOTS of good info over at the S10 forum too.

Your build - but just another opinion. I would personally skip the RTV and go to a Ford dealer and ask for the diesel oil pan sealer in the half size caulking tube, or a Toyota dealer and ask for their oil pan sealer (in a tube), failing availability of all of that I prefer 518 anaerobic or Ultra grey. Just some other options. Life expectancy of RTV around oil seems to be about 2 years max and then it turns to mush. One further option is to use a gasket with a THIN coating of any of the above sealers on each side, and clean and loctite the bolts so they will hold tension on the gasket without needing to over-torque the bolts and squeeze it out.

Your going all the way here I vote just surface the flywheel. It shouldn't add more than $30-$40 and then you know it's all perfect. The little red o-ring is also a seal but I have re-used them without any trouble. Remember to loctite the flywheel bolts to seal them as well. Looks Great!

Spare tennis shoe on the passenger floor board works great:D Pick one that fits your cup just right with a nice non-skid sole and your set;)

Check for a bad or loose connection at the short large wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible link box on the fender. The large female spade connector gets loose over time and will cause exactly that. If that doesn't fix it check for voltage drop between the start terminal of the ignition switch and the positive connection at the solenoid on the starter.