Crazyeights

Get some PB Blaster or some other penetrant and keep soaking it and trying to rotate back and forth until it comes off. In my experience the pump usually ends up cracking when they are stuck this bad, especially if you have to get the rubber hammer out:rolleyes:

Don't forget that making a .250" spacer for the ISC allows you to retain the vacuum ports for EGR, ect. I cut up a scrap throttle body to make mine. The longer metric cap screws are available from Fastenal.

Clamp it in a vise or support it so it doesn't jump away on you. Ground the case, positive wire to the big connector and jump the small terminal to battery positive. That should do it.

Sounds like a laptop might be the way to go then. I need to start looking into what is available software wise. Thanks!

Hello, My boss owns 3 shops and is very hands off (nearing retirement). Sometimes I end up working at more than one location carting 100 lbs of labor estimating guides, manuals, not to mention tools, scan tools, ect around in the back of my Subaru. I do general repair foreign and domestic - no collision repair. I was thinking if I had all my estimating software, labor guides, scan tool software ect setup on a netbook or inexpensive laptop it would make my life MUCH easier. Any software I buy or use has to be strictly above board. I don't want/can't use anything that isn't legit, but I also don't need the latest versions either. Where can I find 3-5 year old CD-Rom (electronic) versions of labor guides, scan software, ect? I will be paying for this stuff myself so cost is a concern. Right now I own an old MTG-2500 Snap On scanner but the software I have is getting REALLY old. Thanks a million for any suggestions. Jeff

If you have a local place in mind for refilling the bottle - you might consider giving them first shot at supplying one of their bottles to you. They might not be as pleased when you bring in a HF bottle and ask them to re-fill it. Again, just this is just IMHO. Good Luck:D

Much better plan with the EJ! Can't wait for the pictures. Great job with the body work so far. It will be back better than ever with your talents:clap:

I have a nice ER27 for sale but I can't imagine what shipping from the states would be:eek:

My opinion only, regular NON-SYNTHETIC 75w-90 with some Rislone added for the synchros. Seems to work the best for me. YMMV

Those are quite common. Unless it is an LSD, the 3.9 rear diff probably isn't worth the cost of shipping it to somebody. Maybe $30 to $50? Somebody might need some other parts though.

Ordered mine from the dealer. They were still available and the parts were perfect as usual. You might also try rockauto.com if you are looking for something less expensive.

Yes, it is pushed in too far. Also use lock-tite on the flywheel bolts as oil can leak past the threads on those as well.

What is your valve lash set at? Mine is a bit noisy, how is yours?

Just buy a used one, it will be fine.

Just replace the seal. The pulley should be fine.

The deck and heads have both been milled or surfaced a total of .025 per side on my engine. I seems like this throws off the valve train geometry just enough to make adjusting them a pain. Had I known this going in I would have selected an Auto cam and ended up with a larger base circle. I had another easier thought. What if I took an extra set of rockers down and had .025 machined off of the surface where they bolt to the head? Wouldn't this restore the VT geometry to near perfect again? Or would I need .025 shims under them, can't think tonight:confused:

Can't quite picture how you did this but I would be VERY interested in a pic or two if you have them. THANKS! My build was partly inspired by yours!

All I can say is the more I drive it the better it gets! It's smoother now across the whole range of power ( off idle right to about 5k rpms) with plenty of torque the whole way. It's really fun to drive for a little EA81, and it's capable of pretty good mileage too if you drive it nicely:grin: Overall I would recommend the same build again with one exception. Start with a Hydro block and lifters, or at the very least do a solid lifter build using a Delta reground "hydro cam" as a core so you end up with a larger base circle diameter.

Hopefully the torque convertor didn't slide out with out you noticing when you pulled the engine. Sounds like the convertor might be "stuffed" incorrectly in to the front pump. Pull the flex plate to convertor bolts and see if it turns over by hand then. Might have to pull the engine forward enough for a look. Good Luck

I have never owned an EA82 - in the case of this engine you are probably correct. Especially if it's a turbo.

I would respectfully disagree. Being at the proper temperature is very important for both longevity and the ability to achieve the correct fuel mixture, especially on computer controlled systems. Of course there are exceptions to every rule (highly modified engines for example) or an engine that has a head gasket problem you are trying to limp along for a little while longer, ect.

Not to mention the Subaru OEM thermostat is far superior to aftermarket ones. It is one part you really do want to spend the $20.00 for and get from the dealer.

Ya, that's the one. The white female end is notorious for loosening up and making a bad connection, leaving you stranded.

With the heads off I use an OLD Snap-On one that looks like a giant C-Clamp - works great. With the heads installed it can be done too. I use an adapter for a compression tester with the schrader valve removed to pressurize the cylinder with shop air (holding the valves closed). I fabbed up something out of a scrap piece of steel I had laying around the shop to lever the springs down and remove the keepers (you do still have to remove the rocker arm shafts). Although this second method works it is sort of a PITA. Much easier with the heads off:) Be advised that there are at least 3 different styles of EA81 pushrods and at least 2 different height of valve springs that I know of. There are also at least 2 different versions of rocker shafts that I have found so far. Not all these parts will play well together in the wrong combinations. The smaller "overhead" spring compressors work really well too. I end up using those more for older V-8's though. Although this is made by Mac Tools, mine looks exactly like this one MAC-TOOLS-VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR

Agreed, that would probably be the easiest to get it running and parts would all be stock and available. With some time, patience, and basic tools you should be able to fabricate the intake adapters out of some thick aluminum plate. Only problem I see could be the distributor. The SPFI swap needs a modified EA82 distributor to fit in an EA81. Could this be done for the EA71, and would it even fit? How much wider are the EA81/EA82 manifolds than the EA71's? Just some things to think about.