Crazyeights

Sweet job on the body work! I totally missed the fact that it didn't start out as a "Brat". I guess that would explain the EA82 and "Gen 3 Brat":grin: Great project - can't wait to see it running.

Without notching the frame? How did you do that with a DOHC, move the whole thing trans and all forward or ?

Glovebox mod almost has to be there to cover damage of some sort, otherwise why bother? Looks like some rust in back around the screen door latches holding the tailgate closed. I bet it's pretty scary looking under the bed liner:eek:

Is this the one you are looking for? EA81 SPFI

Look at it as an opportunity. You can modify the frame and reinforce it to accept that DOHC WRX engine you always wanted to put in:banana:

1a) Study this Numbchux EJ22 Conversion link 1b) SJR Lift EA to EJ conversion parts 2) 4" EA82 SJR Lift 3) SJR Lift 4 to 6 lug conversion

Are the tips in this thread compiled in a "sticky" or FAQ somewhere? They could really help save someone a lot of trouble if they could be pointed to easily each time it comes up. Just a thought.

Can't really tell what I'm looking at here, could it be whale intestines? How about some smaller wider shots or ?

Basically on something like this it all comes down to a few things. Like others have said, how bad is the rust? It's there somewhere even if you can't see it. What is it like mechanically? Lastly how badly do YOU want it? It's worth exactly what you are willing to pay for it. Think it over, have a Subaru friend look at it, and decide what you are willing to pay for it. Doesn't really matter what others think it's worth on something like this IMHO. Good Luck:) Bring a flashlight and look for evidence of water/rust under the dash on both sides. Pull back the front carpet and see if the pad it wet. These things almost ALWAYS leak, and where they leak there is hidden rust somewhere.

Does this one have the fuel filter underneath back by the tank? Mine was plugged and doing something quite similar years ago.

I have an EJ22 out of a 93 Legacy on my bench right now and I just looked. The plate is plastic on this one. Could it be one of those things where pulling the engine is the only reliable way to tell?

Check the coolant temp sensor's connector perhaps? Also make sure the duct between the MAF and T-Body is tight and no leaks (hidden cracks, ect).

It sounds like a wheel bearing problem if it is happening at all times when you are driving. Typically CV joints only make noise going around sharp corners when they first start to fail. Have you checked the large axle nut to make sure it's tight? Is it like a loud growl that changes volume and pitch with road speed?

1500 miles and still going, that's great! If anything fails now it will probably be another valve or something you didn't do. Time will tell.

Can you really just install one valve in a situation like this and get away with it for a while? Do you use a used one or new, lap it in or just hope? Pardon the questions but all these years I have just let the machine shop do it. I am always receptive to shortcuts when they work.

I love it! It fondly reminds me of my V-8 Vega building days:grin:

All you need now is a chrome rain flap:grin: In all seriousness is it VERY important both for mileage and performance.

If it were me I would have the heads surfaced the minimum amount needed to clean them up and use Felpro perma-torque gaskets without any sealer (5 pounds over if your still worried) and clean the block area the best you can. Check the area around the top of the liners where they meet the aluminum. If you can catch your fingernail anywhere around any of the cylinders you may want to strip it and see if the block can be decked a few thousands to clean it up also. Otherwise just put it back together and run it. Do check the freeze plugs in the rocker area of the heads while they are off.

I do know that from training years ago that the success of your rebuild will depend at least in part on how CLEAN everything is kept during the process. The AC system has to remain VERY clean inside and free of moisture and contaminants to live a long and healthy life.

I have torn down a couple sets of EA81 heads recently including the EA81T heads I am working on now and none of them had seals on the exhaust valves. Perhaps they aren't needed? The intake guides are grooved near the top to retain the seals and the exhaust guides are not. I'm sure it's quite similar on the EA71. I'll look it up in the factory parts manual and see what is listed.

The one I used is a Standard SG3. I like the idea of the heated one too.

Some one on here said Escort/GT seats are a pretty close fit for early EA cars.

Pretty sure a DR will physically bolt up but there will be front axle issues if I remember correctly. I think the XT6 Trans has 25 spline stubs and the DR has 23 spline so the inboard XT6 axle joints won't fit the DR as I recall. I don't have an XT6 anymore, sold it. I'd still grab the trans just for parts, but that's just me. I like to mix and match, build custom EA - DR - RX - XT6 trans in different combinations:)

I would grab it if it's easy. It's worth the P-N-P price just for parts even if it needs bearings or something. You probably could also use an RX trans but the ratio would be 3.7 on that and you might need the diff too. Grab the shifter, interior stuff, pedal assembly and clutch cable, ect. The cross member will be useful to someone also even if you don't need it.

It is a good idea to leave the system sealed if it's going to be repaired. At least cover the open lines with gut off glove fingers and zip ties to keep dirt and excess moisture out of the system.