Crazyeights

Switching to the Delta Cams will make a difference. I really doubt you will need to worry about adding more fuel unless you get really crazy with modifications. Start with the Cams and perhaps some exhaust work and leave the fuel system stock for now would be my suggestion.

To increase the fuel pressure would require a different regulator, or some sort of modification to the current fuel system. First check the system's fuel pressure as stock and then the maximum pressure the pump is capable of. You don't want to run the fuel pump at over about 80% of it's rating or the injectors over 90% of their duty cycle or they will overheat over a long period of time.

I could write a long technical answer to this but I'm not sure anyone would care. The short answer is no without other modifications to the engine, intake, stand alone fuel management, and or exhaust. Think of the engine as a pump. The more air you can move through it with modifications (cam, intake, exhaust, turbo, etc) the more fuel will be required to keep the mixture in the proper range. A/F ratio for that engine is probably somewhere on the order of 14.7:1 you can run slightly fatter than that, anything else is just a waste of fuel in my opinion. Another option instead of increasing injector size is upping the fuel system pressure. Most injectors only run at about 60% duty cycle, so there is some room to fatten the system up with what you already have.

Back in "the day" when I used to see this all the time, and was always in a hurry to get the job done, I would take an air chisel and knock access holes in the bellhousing of the engine. I seem to recall trying to pull the engine with the convertor attached and there isn't enough forward room to do that easily. Good Luck! Let us know if you find a better solution.

#3 looks like the turn signal flasher relay #4 looks light the headlight relay Not sure about 1 and 2

I have an ER27 just north of Seattle for you with about 80K on it. Give me a days notice and it's yours for $200.00. I need make room for other projects as I sold the XT6. Timing belts and covers are on and included.

I don't want to jump in with a hijack but I have just done the SPFI conversion on an old EA81 and now I am most of the way through the harness on an EJ22 swap. Both of these require a LOT of wiring, figure 3-4 hours per harness from someone that has done it before or 10+ hours with diagrams if you haven't. On an EA81 I would say it MIGHT be worth the trouble - not sure I would do it again. The EJ swap really is the way to go IMHO. I have never touched an EA82 so I can't really help there. I understand there are at least two styles of EA82 heads MPFI with two intake ports and SPFI with only one intake port (can't do MPFI with these heads) You could also keep it simple and put on a Weber with a conversion plate. Good Luck

The 4" EA81 SJR Lift components I bought look like they are quite a bit stronger than the material used by Subaru to build the car. I wouldn't think they would fail. Top Notch Stuff for sure!

If you are going with new components is there a reason why you can't use either PAG or ESTER oil and R-134 ? The R-12 systems I have converted work great and R-134 is cheaper isn't it?

Another thing to check - try and see if you can tell whether turning on the lights makes the gauges read higher. If so locate the light relay and replace it making sure the connector is clean. Worked for me. Also pull the cluster and make sure the gauge mounting nuts and studs are clean and tight.

It may only cure in the absence of oxygen. It's probably fine.

Pretty sure I have one from a 93 Legacy if that helps. I'll check on Monday unless someone has one quicker.

It looks like that was done on a belt. All the ones I have ever gotten back you can see a semicircular pattern from the cutting tool. I'd be concerned.

So, is there a general consensus at to what the proper method is to prep (Subaru) blocks for new head gaskets? Most of the head gaskets I have done over the years at work have been on iron block - aluminum head engines. On the last performance EA81 I did, the machinist took about .003" off of the deck to "clean and square up the surface" and another .020" from the heads to help raise compression. So far it's been great. I am getting ready to put rebuilt heads back on my EJ22 and I was a wondering about methods of cleaning the block surface.

Actually you might be better off with Felpro permatorque on the older EA series Subaru engines. I know on the newer EJ's OEM head gaskets are recommended. As a side note, that noise in your video sounds pretty ugly. My vote is either noisy HLA's (hopefully) or a rod getting ready to come through the case - hope not:eek: I would just hate to see anyone go to the trouble of doing head gaskets and a re-seal only to start it up and have the death knock still there. Good Luck

Can't wait to see how the MS install goes. Congrats on assembling it yourself! I like the wagon too, I have an '83 all fixed up. Keep the updates coming.

If it's an old pump just replace it. If it's new just soak it with PB Blaster and use standard extraction methods to remove it. It will depend on whether or not it was simply corroded or cross-threaded which method you might want to use.

I've used 3 Bond, Ultra Grey, Loctite 518, ect. Personally I don't think there is a big difference as long as they are applied properly. I wasn't aware of all the variations though. A Subaru tech or parts person will probably know all the differences. Quite a bit of information here, Threebond

Get one from the dealer. They aren't much and they fit perfectly. I had the same problem before I sold my XT6.

Probably electric "kickdown" for an automatic trans. You shouldn't need it for a 5 speed.

That is a tough area to work with. Please keep the thread updated. I have a leak in the same area that I am hoping is just the windshield seal, but....

I have an extra EA81T MAF if you need one. Send me a PM

@hatchsub Any luck with this yet?

Agreed, however the last couple off topic posts (my fault ) referred to the simple c-clip style somehow getting stuck in the trans. I have a 6 foot pry bar that fell off of the back of a cement truck in front of my work that I custom ground the end on, air hammer with several custom made ends, BFH, ect. I have all but cracked a couple cases trying to get the first couple out. Now I just either rebuild them in the car or send them down the road to the local trans shop - he hasn't called and cussed me out yet:grin:

I have read that and there is a picture of the connector but the "fold-out" that it refers to seems to be missing.