Crazyeights

I don't know if this would work on Subaru balancers or not but I keep a few old serpentine belts around for use as a strap wrench. Wind the belt around the grooves on the pulley 2 or 3 turns (the belt will fold over on itself - use an old belt) and hook it around the nearest thing that will hold it. Reverse to install. Sorry if I am way off base here. Obviously be careful of 2 part balancers so you don't twist the outer ring.

I have a modified RX/XT6 trans in my 83 EA81 wagon and the vacuum chamber and cable fit fine. Is it a gen 1 or gen 2 brat? Good Luck

PTO cable might work. I think this link is for the Muncie style PTO control cable. PTO Cable PDF

I had to lengthen the threaded rod/adjustment portion of the clutch cable to get mine adjusted properly. I didn't know what else to do as it was my first EA81 5 SPD swap, but it's been working great for thousands of miles now.

One of the "Experts" is Jerry. He knows his stuff, he is very helpful and can probably answer all of your questions. Search for user Bratsrus or something like that.

Oil pump o-rings - front crank seal or both?

You can get a used set with or without keys. Any good locksmith should be able to make 1 key work with all the locks for a minimal price. That's how I did mine. I picked up a complete set from P-A-P and had them all matched to my ignition key.

I am currently running Winterforce 205/70R15 tires on Alloy Pugs on my '83 wagon with a FT 4wd trans. So far they do very well in the snow we have had this year in the PNW. I would like to have a second set of street tires to run the rest of the year as I believe the fuel economy would be better like your information shows. Thanks for the info. BTW mine is a Gen II wagon with a 4" lift.

I have a '93 EJ22E from a Legacy auto that doesn't have EGR FWIW

Walker Subaru and many others. The dealer is probably best for these parts.

What about refrigerant oil when converting a system like this? Using an EJ22 comp, 134a R/D with an R12 system (and 134 refrigerant) couldn't you just use ESTER oil to be safe or should you use PAG? Just some thoughts...

Yes, I just switched from a PT D/R to a FT 4WD (both 3.9 ratios). You loose a little in mpg but the gain in traction is well worth it IMHO.

Not all 5 were THAT bad, but bad enough that they couldn't be ground and had to be replaced. It would have run like it was just not well for very long. I'm still working on it and was thinking of having the injectors checked and cleaned before it goes back in after finding and watching this thread. Once again GD THANKS for the info.

Like dirty injectors perhaps? I just finished having the heads done on a '93 Leg Hydro EJ22 with about 140k on it and 5 of the 8 exhaust valves were burnt like those in your pictures. Yes, I know it's an old thread - sorry;)

Yes the EA71 pistons do fit in an EA81. I just built mine with a NOS set. I have heard that the EA82 (SPFI) pistons fit an EA81 also and are an even better choice for compression. The Delta cam is certainly an improvement, but your valve train may be considerably noisier even with tighter valve clearances if it's a solid lifter engine. You can also remove about .005" from the deck of the engine block halves and another .020" from the heads (make sure they are the large valve heads). Any more than that and the intake manifold may have to be modified to fit. GD's SPFI conversion is great! I have never tried a Weber carb setup on an EA81 so I can't comment on that. If I keep my foot out of it I get about 18-20 mpg city and 25-30 mpg on the freeway. That's with 15" pugs and a 3.9 ratio D/R FT 4WD 5 speed.

Looks GREAT:clap: Must be about an 84, does it have a 4 speed or an auto? What color is the interior? Congrats!

Sweet! So the 2.2 tensioner bracket goes on the 2.5 block and the rest of the timing components are all 2.2? How much clearance do you have on the drivers side at the frame area? Can't quite see from the photos. Lots on the pass side by the looks of it.

I just went through this on my '83 wagon and it was a combination of the connector/headlamp relay (in the dash by the headlamp switch connector near the steering column). I am beginning to wonder how reliable those 20 year old little round style relays are:rolleyes: Hope you get yours fixed.

I recently bought a set of the first gen reproduction lugs from a member here that was making them and they fit perfectly. I had the VW adapters before. GD is right about the safety concern with those. The repros are WELL WORTH the money. They are perfect and the second run was even plated if I remember correctly. Just my 2 cents.

Forgive me, I don't know your Brat. Is it lifted at all? Is the suspension totally stock? Certain combinations of front end lift parts will eat axles FAST. The best axle made (MWE?) won't last any longer than the ones he is putting in if the suspension geometry is what is eating them up. Are the front hubs and bearings still good? Good Luck

I have an Hybrid 3.9 RX/XT6 D/R CL Diff box in my EA81 wagon using the stock EA81 23 spline front axles. The D/R-S/R 23 spline stubs fit right in the XT6 or R/X front diffs. Fair amount of work but you get the chance to re-seal it at the same time:grin: The above links are EXCELLENT! I probably wouldn't have tried building my trans without them. Also, search for the thread on replacing the front trans bearing. GREAT tear-down instructions with good pics.

Brilliant shortcut! I have done the last couple the hard way:rolleyes:

Well, I know there is at least module and a sensor at the base of the steering wheel involved on the XT6. I saved an extra pump, controller, and lines when I sold my XT6. If you figure this out I would love to know. The XT6 FSM has a schematic section devoted to it. I think it is still hosted on the XT6 forum site. Lubegard PS fluid (Sold in the flush kit) seems to work well. About $16.00 for a large bottle I think.

Another successful alternator upgrade:banana: Thanks GD! I actually had the correct size spacer in the "alternator pulleys and spacers" box so I didn't need to grind one down. System voltage seems to be MUCH more stable at lower RPM's than it was before. This is a SWEET upgrade. BTW I took one look at the mud puddle under the Maxima at P-A-P and went for the reman:grin:

Nice work! Is there a special engine paint for aluminum? It seems like no matter how carefully I prep aluminum parts the paint just doesn't adhere like it does to cast iron parts. Love the pics!