Crazyeights

I'll second that. If it's already been compressed $15.00 or so should get you a new one.

Both my 01 that I just sold and the 04 that I just picked up run right at the mid point of the gauge.

It seems that the D21 with the 2.4 uses (2) JH50 injectors with a lower flow rate than ours (JH45). The Nissan Pathfinder or Pickup with the VG30 6Cyl should use a pair of the JH40-? injectors which should be an upgrade for us if our math is correct. In the Subaru SPFI the Nissan JH40 injector should run about 18% more fuel at 60% duty cycle. I am trying to find one to test and also have him flow it for me.

Had a friend flow test a standard Subaru SPFI injector and a Nissan D21 Truck injector (physically fits the Sub Hitachi SPFI) Injector #1 Stock Subaru (Part Number JH45-1) 1F@20PSI = 133ml 800cc or 76pph Injector #2 Nissan D21 Pickup with a 2.4 (Part Number JH50-1 2 required) 1F@20PSI = 113ml 688cc or 66pph I didn't have a Nissan VG30 injector (Should be part number JH40-?) for him to test but I bet this is the one we want. It should flow about 18% more than the stock Subaru injector. He will run the numbers on that one for me if I can find one. Just FYI because I didn't see this info anywhere out there.

As it sits now my EA81 wagon has the SJR prototype lift in it with the 4" cast aluminum strut blocks and 3" front crossmember blocks. I'm going through front CV boots with this combo otherwise it works great. The shaft in one of my photos is out of a '98 Forester (the one with the built in rag joint) and it's a little bit too short at just over 9". I will need the coupler to be even longer once the 4" blocks are in, right? What is the overall length of the 96-99 Outback coupler, is it longer than the Forester one and does it have the flexible portion built in as well?

Thanks GD!

Yes it does. The power steering is all EA81T parts so it works with the EA81 and SPFI.

My EA81 wagon is already lifted and although it works my steering shaft isn't the greatest. I'm going to be replacing the current lift with SJR's 4" kit so I went to P-A-P and started collecting ideas for making a better steering shaft. Here are some pics. Since I don't weld I'll have to try and be ready with the best option for someone who can. These are out of a 92 and 93 Legacy The top one in this pic is from a 98 forester The bottom one is adjustable and came out of an 86 GL 4WD Wagon These are the top two cut differently, one so you can cut a pipe to length slide it over the stubs and weld it. The other the 5/8 steel rod can be cut to length, fit in the holes and welded. This one shows them all together. The white painted section on the one can be cut to length and welded. I'll probably end up using that one. It was the hardest to find.

Back when I was doing RWD import clutches almost everyday I used to see the 8mm pressure plate bolts that had stretched once in a while. I would replace the bad ones with either new ones or used from sets I had saved. You would be able to see the bolt narrow and the thread pitch widen out right at point where the threaded potion of the bolt becomes solid close to the head. I always figured it was from over-tightening during the last clutch rather than wear. I still watch for it on the FWD cars but hardly ever see it anymore.

Sorry, typo on the email. OK, we'll see if I was in time or not. Thanks

I'm in for 1 if its not to late. EA81 4" lift Thanks,

Looks Great!

How many more do we need for what type of price? I may buy a 4" EA81 lift and sell my SJR Prototype lift after. It looks like the kit has come a long way since the prototype Thanks, -Jeff

I have a pair off of a good runner, however they too are cracked between the valves or at least they look like it to me. I don't think it's uncommon to see that on these. They are off of an 84 EA81 Hydro lifter engine. -Jeff

Cool, that was one of the details I needed. Thanks!

OK, I can order that from your site right? Will that affect the current steering shaft length? Thanks

The front "Y" pipe is stock and the heat shields are still there. I think the lift is a 3" although I didn't put it in. The front struts are down all the way already. Scott what do I need new to fix this, new front cross-member blocks ? Do you have a link to what I should get? The strut spacers are the cast aluminum "SJR" ones. Thanks, -Jeff

I bought my 83 GL Wagon back a short time ago with an SRJ Prototype lift kit installed and 15" 8 spoke Pugs. I think it's a 3" lift but I am not sure. I put a new LF Axle (DTA8606) in when I got it back because the old one was shredded. The boots on both side front axles are bad already and I'm just using it for a daily driver so far. I has a heavily modified EA81, Modified RX FT 4WD 3.9 trans, and a rear LSD. Is it time for MWE axles or is the angle wrong because of the lift? Can anything be done to make them last? Here are a couple pics of the underside of it. Front Rear I am also trying to chase down some clunks and rattles from the rear of the car that have always been there over bumps (both before and after the lift) let me know if you see anything obvious. Thanks for looking

+1 for Scott They are nice adapters!

I would like to see some pics of the intake and adapter you made. Sounds like a cool project!

@Tex Thanks for the pics of the console work

Agree. Pulled the studs and wire wheeled them carefully on mine. FSM has info on putting the studs back in.

I have a "Frankentrans" in my 83 wagon and the diff lock is easy to hook up. The FT 4WD is well worth the effort, go for it! Mine is an RX box with 3.9 XT6 ring and pinion so it has HI/LO as well.

That explains why I had to lengthen the threaded adjustment portion of the clutch cable in order to make my swap work. It does seem to have clearance for the T/O bearing though. Thanks for the info and good luck with the conversion. It makes a HUGE difference. +10 on Jerry's Kit!