LosDiosDeVerde86

2010 Legacy 2.5i, CVT, 97k miles. This happened yesterday on a short drive. I pulled over and let it sit for about 5 minutes. When I turned it back on the VDC and Brake were still doing their thing but the AT Temp light was off. Called the wife to bring me my BlueDriver scanner before I continued to drive it and there were no codes. Started it back up after about 15 or 20 minutes and the lights were all off and have been off since. Any idea what those lights in that configuration are trying to tell me?

The cigarette lighter outlet in my center console cubby hole is shorting its 20amp fuse as soon as I turn the car on while nothing is plugged into it. Anyone else run into this?

When we bought our '16 Outback Limited we test drove the Forester first and felt the same way. The quality of materials, design, ride quality, and tech in the Outback just seemed way beyond the Forester and for an extra 3k it was no-brainer.

As I posted in the New Gen forum, I made a website that's compiling data about Subarus. Right now I've got almost everything going back to 1992, but I need help finding information on older models since the available information on the usual sources gets pretty thin around that time. So, if you're interested in helping me out, check out the site and submit any information you might have. http://subarudata.com

Over the past few weeks I've been compiling as much data as I could regarding Subarus since 1992 with the intent of being able to compare power to weight ratios. I've put all of my findings together on a website and welcome anyone who's interested to check it out. It's still very much a work in progress. Right now the chart only shows hp/ton. Eventually I'd like to allow you to show whatever data you want on the chart. You can filter the data by using the form field and sort the columns by clicking the header, which will also sort the chart. I'd also like to go earlier than 1992 so if you have any of the data for some classic Subarus, I provided a button in the header for you to submit that data. I really want to keep this up to date as new models get released so it can become a resource for enthusiasts. http://subarudata.com/

So, I test drove it. No keyless entry fobs, AC doesn't work, drivers door handle plastic was broken, the switch for the power mirrors doesn't work, rust on the roof around the antenna, and the engine had been mostly rebuilt because the previous owner had it in an inoperable state prior to the current owner. The engine sounded like it was possibly knocking and the transmission was making a lot of noise; clunks and thumps, and whines. Also there was a lot of suspension noise. Plus the gas cap cover, drivers seat tear, and oxygen sensor that I already knew about. I was looking to replace my DD, not a project. I'm pretty heartbroken that it didn't work out, but getting back into the seat of a pretty beat 12 year old car really did make me appreciate my '10 a lot more.

So what you're saying is, you WOULDN'T do it, if it were your only DD?

Thanks. As far as I can tell the extent of their advertising is Facebook Marketplace and a for sale sign in their windshield.

When I had an older car I prayed, then when the rear quarter started to bubble I sanded it and spray painted caution stripes over it.

First off, hey guys. It's been a while. Good to be back. Let me lay out my problem for you. I have a 2010 Legacy 2.5i CVT with 90,000 miles. I bought it brand new because we needed a new family car that could reliably take us on 500 to 1000 miles road trips. It was cheap and reliable and a Subaru, so I bought it. It's my 3rd Legacy preceded by a 96 LS and a 99 GT Limited (this one imploded...don't ask. Nothing but bad memories and disappointment. grossgary knows the story). It's totally paid off and I fully expect that it would last me another 5 to 10 years, probably more if I treat it well. Except here's the thing...There's a Baja for sale near me. 2004 Baja Sport manual with 124,000 miles. $6,000. Naturally I contacted the owner, got some more pics of it, and I'm test driving it this evening. I took my Legacy to Carmax yesterday and their offer is $6500. Just enough to cover the cost (more if I can't get the price down) plus tax. I can literally do this trade straight up. So, my question to you fine folks is, presuming the test drive and inspection comes back clean (I already know it needs a new plastic gas cap cover and O2 sensor) would you do this trade? One more thing, I work from home, drive maybe 50 miles a week, and my wife has a 2016 Outback Premium that's now the go-to family car, which clearly is a point towards making the deal. Something that concerns me though, is that I NEED to sell my Legacy to buy the Baja. I just paid off a bunch of debt and my savings isn't quite up to snuff (but I make enough to replenish it pretty quickly). So, imagine a scenario where we agree that I buy the car, go to Carmax, sell the Legacy, and then they pull out of the deal! I'd be totes screwed.

Ours is hitting a year old in September and we've had absolutely zero wrong with it. ...except... The electronic trunk is super finicky. Sometimes it works as it should and there have been other times that I'll be sitting in the driver's seat with the owner's manual in hand making sure that I'm meeting every rule that allows the trunk to open and it just doesn't when using the dash button or trunk button. However, I'm pretty sure it always works with the fob.

I like my 2010 CVT as well. Also, my '16 Outback does have an actual temp gauge and the eco meter is now part of the screen.

I actually test drove both the Forester and Outback the say you posted this thread. I can you that without a doubt the Outback has better ride quality than the Forester. The difference was night and day.

I'm putting my wish list together for my '10 Legacy as it approaches 100k miles (play time). On the docket is an Outback lift. In my experience with my old '96, replacing the struts was sufficient and the old Legacy springs fit the new Outback struts just fine. Any idea if this is true with the 2010-2014 models?

First guess would have been fuel pump. But now I'd suggest that you simply monitor it until it becomes more frequent so the dealership can have a better chance to track it down.