bill hincher

the Toyota bearing from the update was a good selection but it presented some problems with depth, the Toyota throw out collar was too short to support this bearings use, so I will have to build a throw out bearing holder and find a bearing with a larger inner diameter, its no big deal, I build them for my R 154 /Mits combination already

whiner:banana:

its a 'bit' leave it in! said the director!

that does seem to be the proper bearing, its from a 3SGE Toyota engine I have one on its way now from Dan at compitition clutch , who by the way is the ONLY guy to work with on your clutch systems, he has always been a great help the remaining detail is the depth required for the bearing to ride on the existing Toyota throw out bearing sleeve on the w series trans what I gotta knowwwwwwwwww is , why are there 2 clutch fork pivots in the bellhousing? the only one I need it the outer one, is this an option? or required

The first step to every long juorney is the first step, Me and Matt made the descision at the very begining about what we would be building, that focus must not be detoured I spend about $5000.00 per design, and hundreds of man hours building one pattern, then some guy from Texas writes to me and says ' my neighbor has a trans he aint using, could you build me an adaptor for it? ' ( true story) whats in your wallet?

the bottom line is cost. when I build a bellhousing, I want a cost effective, easy to get parts for, system that an entry level guy can afford. There aint nothin worse then buying something that dont fit and then you gotta buy this and that and grind something down, thats all crap The bellhousing should do all the design work, the parts should be 'over the counter' stuff from the local parts store, after that, if somebody wants to spend a ton of money on the latest and greatest ..............have at it dude!

the contct circle in the clutch diaphram is huge compared to what I am used to, either the throwout bearing will be found or the diaphram spring must be replaced the disc is a dirct bolt up from the Toyota 22r engine, the Sub is on the left and the Toy is on the right , both 9 inch the pilot bearing on the toy and the sub are the same, that is a Toyota w 55/59 input shaft with a Toyota 9in disc attached to the sub flywheel and pilot bearing the Sub pressure plate bolts right over the Toyota disc, fits like a glove the Toyota W series trans face plate mated to the Toyota disc in the Sub flywheel/pressure plate, this will also re-use the Sub starter its looking good but we have alot of work to do yet

where are you stormy?

kinda the idea, yea, once I get done building them:) depending on the throw out bearing the cost should be in the mid $300.00 range the design hopes to use all Sub hardware , like clutch fork, pivot ball and slave cylinder flywheel. starter and pressure plate with just a Toyota disc to finish the build

this also fits the R 150 and 151 series, the early V-6 transmission

I went out and bought a Sub core motor for mock up I built a rotisary to be able to move the engine in any position and make adjustments as the build proceeds I mounted up an R 150 Toyota trans to check input shaft length and some cenetering, it looks like it is coming along nicely

I cut out the clutch controls and the starter bagage, then reconsruted it to size there are two trans bolt patterns fit into the trans facing, one is for the W series Toyota trans, the other is for the R series Toyota trans, that way it will offer more selection for what you want to do I like to build a little cleaner looking sides and improve the draft lines for the casting shop its important to visualize when reconstructing the starter pocket, that this will shrink by 1% in all directions , so this pattern must be adjusted to a larger size then expected I am going to leave the clutch controls alone until I assemble the whole unit and test the throw out bearing operation, the measurements are just too critical at this point to make a mistake the trans bolt pattern is not traced out for looks, I build a wide bolt flange landing before the bellhousing walls are built as a guide, I need to know the bolt pattern before I can add structure gussets from the side wall down to the trans face plate looks like this bellhousing is tired of all the surgury >;o)

after the bellhousing was measured and cut down to size, the back of the new housing was squared with the front of the housing then the new trans facing was put into place and indexed to the proper angle the facing was ancored and the lower skirt was decided on for the proper drafting while casting then each panel is cut out and replaced to build a conforming justure from the front of the housing to the trans mounting surface

sorry about the late reply, yes, I been puttering with my little Sub project. I build a variety of housings and ship around the world and get a bit distracted This is for the T 56 to the narrow block 4G63 Mits engine This fits the R 154 to either the wide block or the narrow block or the EVO's Mits engine sometimes I can dream, sometimes I can invent and sometimes I can build, but it dont work like an assembly line, sucsess is usually a series of small failures >;o)

It would be a neet project to run the Toyota W series driveline in a Samuri frame with the Sub engine kindofa oriental hot rod .;o)

after my brother-in-laws 4th wife left him , I tried to explain to him It's not them, it's you! >;o)

yeah, I can see the pics on both of my computers the W 55 through 59 series Toyota trans came on everything from a 4wd toyota truck to a 2 wd Supra, they came on everything

lets have some fun >;o) one of your fearless members asked me about a bellhousing to mate the Sub engine to a purely RWD unit, preferably the Toyota W series transmission, I thought it was a neet idea the only trouble was is that my main man mellow65 lived a cool 1500 miles away from me, so he sent me some material in the mail the first thing I did was to square the rear of the housing so i could set it on its back and get my centers then I cleaned out the center section so I could indicate my centers this one number is critical to the datum lines then I could cut down the rear of the housing to the right length for the input shaft after all that, a datum plate had to be built to hold everything in place while building the pattern, the bolt pattern is built into this datum plate and a center locater is placed in it the existing belhousing is bolted to the datum plate then a center dowel is placed off the datum then the front plate removed from a W 58 Toyota trans is attached to the center and that gives you a roughed in sketch to work with to build a pattern the next step is to build the back plate on the bellhousing

hello , My name is Bill hincher. I am from Toledo,Ohio I have been a life long Import mechanic on japanese cars