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Mike104

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Everything posted by Mike104

  1. Be careful of the Gates timing belt kits as they have been reported as using Chinese bearings now. If it has the 2.5L engine the preferred head gasket is the Subaru Turbo Multi-Layer Steel one 11044AA770. Not sure if it works for the 2.2L or not. Some have reported that FelPro Kits have had the Subaru OEM ones but your mileage may vary.
  2. Better to be safe then having to call the customer and tell them their car is torched and even lose your shop to fire!
  3. May also take a look at the rear crossmember and underside of the body for rust that may affect structural integrity
  4. Part is available (I2) 51600FC101 (or other superseding part numbers dealer will use VIN to determine correct one) Around $400 though. http://parts.subaru.com/p/WHEEL-APRON-COMPLETE-REAR-RIGHT/49502852/51600FC051.html May be possible to cut offending part or section of from pull and pay yard and weld in, but again depends on how bad the area is rusted
  5. Guess it depends on what is bad. If it's the strut simply a parts remove and replace. If it's the mounting area would need some fabrication skills to cut out bad parts and weld in some new metal.
  6. When I broke the caliper mount when I did a brake job I just got a rebuilt caliper and was done. I bit the bullet and bought new bracket bolts from the Subaru dealer. I have found my local Ace Hardware to be a good source for Metric Class 10.9 bolts
  7. Helicoil would work since that bolt is loaded in shear. I've had good luck drilling out and using a tap. Helicoil kit is probably $30-50. Tap is probably less than $10. Caliper Bracket is $25 from rockauto.com http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1994,legacy,2.2l+h4,1430385,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper+bracket,1714
  8. I know several people have had luck doing three drain and refills of the transmission with new oil. I believe yours needs the new HP Subaru fluid so that may be a bit expensive.
  9. helicoil or get a new bracket. They are available from Subaru or pull and pay yards. I usually drill it out using progressively larger drill bits then run a tap through the remnants.
  10. Thanks for the information. Many here are USDM users so the intricacies of the Aus vehicles is limited.
  11. I'm not an engineer and my exposure to the EJ engines is limited to my own vehicles. That said I lean towards what is specified in my OM. All of my cars have over 200K miles so I use high mileage synthetic and OEM filters. I change my oil at 5k miles simply because it's easier for me to calculate when it's due next. I must say there isn't a more discussed topic on most car forums that engine oil/filters. The nice thing is we can each do our own thing and it has no impact on others. My opinion is mine and I certainly have no expectation that anyone will change their oil change habits based on what I say The experience of others that work on these cars every day is certainly worth listening to IMO.
  12. I just put an EJ20 into my 03 Forester and the JDM EJ20 Cam Sensor was in the same place, Behind the driver's side cam gear.
  13. There is a plate that holds the handle and license plate lights that corrodes and causes the handle to get stuck. 84927AC020 Sometimes if you lubricate the hinge points with some spray it will move enough to unlatch the door You can see how the latch mates to the handle (5) here:
  14. I had a similar code on my 03 Forester. I put in a used one from same MY Forester from the pull and pay and it resolved the issue. I'm not sure if the 08 models had any funky stuff like a Body Integrated Unit that talks to the other modules? Mine was under the center instrument panel, below the radio.
  15. If you don't have a car lift, removing the engine is easiest (IMO). Some say to drop the exhaust and driveshaft and remove the transmission but I haven't done it that way.
  16. If you remove the air intake items from the throttle body and shine a flashlight down on the right side of the engine your should be able to see the wire that runs down to the FWD O2 sensor.
  17. There should be two sensors both on the forward Catalytic converter one front and one back.
  18. That's the socket cover, not sure you can buy that part as it is part of the wiring harness. The link above could be a good option
  19. Do you mean the connector that attaches to the bulb? Can you post a picture? https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-10715-84790.aspx?year=1995&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&origin=&parttype=Socket%2520-%2520Headlight
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