Mike104

Thanks for the heads up on the HGs

Was wondering about finding parts for engine as generally they use the year/model. Used opposedforces and found a European 2.0L engine on an Impreza (02-07) G11. Going to use that for Part Numbers and hope it works.

That's the change. Thanks for the suggestion on the Intake manifold swap info

Engine purchased!

If the engine overheated to the point it warped the heads I would pass as the rod bearings will likely be the next thing to go. That probably means at the very least a short block change or and engine replacement. I would pass myself unless you are prepared for an engine change.

I'm going to do this same swap next week. Thanks for the Cam Sprocket tip.

So my younger son bought an 08 Impreza WRX to replace his 03 Forester with rod knock. Was wondering what to do with his old car. His brother wrecked his 98 Outback this weekend and I gave him my 99 Outback with 475k (he lives 8hrs away at college). So going to put a 2.0L JDM engine in the 03 Forester for my daily. Helps that my younger son works as a mechanic at the local Subaru dealer. One of the mechs there has done lots of these swaps so I hope it goes well! Wish me luck!

This sounds so familiar. My 99 OBW with 475k has a similar issue. Turn the key and get a click. Changed starter, ignition switch, did the start relay mod, changed the transmission switch. Sometimes I turn the key and it turns over right away. I find if I turn the key to on and put my seatbelt on and wait until the airbag light goes out it will crank and start right away. Otherwise if I turn the key to start multiple times usually cranks and starts by the fourth time. Never figured out what the issue is but now that I know it will start eventually not a big deal.

This is the thread that links to the Factory Service Manuals http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/49121-new-gen-subaru-faq-sticky-compilation/?p=1201090

I think the only exception was to use an anerobic sealant when installing the oil pump

Apparently the original Fuji Bond was black, then grey and now apparently red

Subaru Dealer mechanics use Fuji Bond and say its the best. I've used Permatex Gray and it leaks. According to my son (Subaru Dealer mechanic) they now use THREEBOND TB1217H https://www.flatironstuning.com/p-2919-subaru-three-bond-tb1217h-new-fuji-bond.aspx

I did the speedo fix and it worked for a while. Eventually died again. Found a new speedo head on ebay for $50 and put it in and it has worked for a long time.

I reseated the airbox cover and noise is much reduced. Thanks Nipper. I think I need to get a Subaru OEM filter (it is a solid metal frame) to reduce the likely hood of the floppy one moving around in the air box. It's due for replacement so I think I'll just put an OEM one in this time.

Nipper, Thanks for the advice, I did have it opened a while ago so I will check that first. Its also due for an ATF change as well so I'll do that too and see how it goes. I guess when it is in that gear and WOT it can make a noise and when it shifts, the RPM drops so that may be the reason it only does it at that time. Thanks for all of the help!

Could be it had just never been changed? Burnt smell is usually a bad sign

Thanks Dave, I'm just kinda wondering why its only in the one gear. I can also hear it when the transmission downshifts during an acceleration too like on the freeway.

I know what you mean! I did the same thing on my '99 and figured it out quickly like you did as well.

OK I have a '99 OB with the 2.5L and 4EAT and have a strange noise that I thought I would ask the board members for an opinion on. Like the title says its only when I accelerate at wide throttle and only in one specific gear (I'm not sure if it's second or third?). It sounds like a bearing noise or a whistling noise. Is it likely a transmission noise or could it also be a front diff bearing? Trying to guage whether the likely fix will be a 4EAT swap? Thanks for reading.

Here is a link to a DIY with pics to change the steering boots. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/34373-replacing-steering-rack-boots.html Some suggest putting a plastic bag over the outer tie rod and spraying the inside of the boot with silicone spray and then pull the boot over the outer tie rod rather than removing it. I would agree about the use of the Subaru ones as we know they are generally longer lasting. YMMV!

I had to change a few and I tried hitting it with a dead weight hammer and got nowhere. One hit with the 2lb sledge and out it came! Put the new one in and added some washers and it pulled right in. I also had a tire place change on during a tire installation for $25 as it was convenient for me at the time. Part is a couple of dollars so easy to do.

Nice led lights! Too much work for me but they do look great in your car!

This is a similar one available at Princess Auto (HF like store in Canada). They have several stores in BC. $29.99 + HST http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8312621/Code-Readers/MaxiScan%AE-MS300-CAN-OBDII-Code-Reader It looks identical to the one I got at Harbor Freight (HF)

According to Google code 77 is: 77 Lock-Up Duty Solenoid Circuit That probably means that its not going into Torque Converter Lockup. That will drop your RPM at cruise 3-400 RPM. May be the AT wire harness is damaged/not fully connected or they may have damaged the AT oil pan with a transmission jack when changing the engine (that could have damaged the Duty Solenoid). From another Subaru board: 77 Lock-up duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit. I'd take it back and expect them to fix it.

Having gone through this myself a couple of years ago I can say that the options available have been stated earlier. One of the main questions to ask is are you or someone reliable that you going do this job or are you going to pay a shop to do it? If you are going to do it yourself I would recommend the 2.2L swap from a US sourced yard. If you know someone that can comfortably do the sway, it may make some sense to go that route. If you are going to pay a shop to do this job either find a Subaru specialist (not sure too many in AL) and have them use a CCR rebuild. The downside is it will probably cost almost as much as the car is worth but the upside is that the replacement engine will be essentially turn key, just needing the intake manifold and accessories from your current engine. The CCR unit will have new head gaskets, valve covers, timing components, water pump and timing belt. Its not the cheapest way to do it but if you have to pay a standard shop to do the job it may end up being a similar cost. If you lived in the PNW I would suggest you contact one of the board members that does this work daily and have them swap in a 2.2L engine as that would be the cheapest option. Any used engine be it JDM or from a yard should have all the timing components replaced, valve stem seals, gaskets, seals, HGs etc. done before you drop the engine in. If there is some place local that can do that work get a price estimate and go from there. A CCR engine is around $3500 (maybe more now) so its not the cheapest option but you have to look past the price and make sure that whatever $100 or $1800 engine you buy has the cost of the required maintenance done before you put the engine in. If I had to do it over again, I would probably do the 2.2L swap if I could find someone other than a shop do the job for me.