Mike104

Item 18 by chance? 73134AC001 - Adjust bracket http://www.subaruonlineparts.com/ $4.82 + shipping Local dealer (if they aren't 100 miles away) may be better option. Looks like that part # is used across a number of models

My bad! Read tensioner and got target fixation. See post below

Your plan sounds good. Cheaper to get a $1 key made then have to call someone to open your door.

Done correctly the newer Subaru Head Gaskets have been reported as reliable. Here is a link to a posting about Subaru HGs and what to expect: http://www.smart-service.com/blog/2009/09/prolonging-subaru-head-gaskets Here is a good post about the fix or repair question: http://www.smart-service.com/mikescorner-fixornot.html You may want to ask the Subaru tech if he will go over your car and offer his opinion on what the car needs to be as trouble free as possible. Hard for us to tell you what to do. In my case I went ahead and fixed my car as I knew what I had as opposed to buying another unknown car that could also have problems. I always look at $500 + /month car payments for 48 to 72 months as the cost of buying a car vs repairing what I have. At 115k miles yours is just starting to get broken in. Mine has 236k and going strong (recently installed rebuilt engine) Good luck!

What year/model?

The High compression values have me wondering whats up with that. Doesn't seem right? Timing?

Are Subaru OEM ignition wires installed? I have heard that non OEM ones can cause problems. Misfires seem to be a common difficult to fix issue on a number of Subaru forums. If the wires are not Subaru or have been installed more than a few years try changing them with Subaru ones. I got some from an online dealer for $50 + shipping, cheaper than the NGK ones locally. Good luck!

For those that like to watch instead of read: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-repair-seattle-timing-belt-idlers-explained/ Here is an EndWrench article about Timing Belt R&R on the 2.5L DOHC engine http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf There are some threads about what else you should change "cause you are in there" when doing a timing belt change. The short version: All Timing Belt Idlers/Tensioner Camshaft Seals Front Crankshaft Seal Water Pump Thermostat Reseal Oil Pump Accesssory Drive Belts The idea is that since most of that stuff either has to be removed to get to the timing belt or is easily accessible once the timing belt is off, preventative maintenance to do it now. Others say inspect and only fix what's bad. I changed just the timing belt and a year later the oil seals went out. Had to pay for timing belt replacement (2nd time) and oil seals. Your call.

Try Here: http://napaautoparts.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=tensioner&Ntk=Keyword&N=599001+101999+50068+2068008 There are two styles, not sure which one you have. Here is one from O'Reilly: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/GATU/T43138.oap?year=1999&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&vi=1444343&forcedVehicle=true&pt=02378&ppt=C0141 OEM one from Online dealer is cheaper: https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/oempartscat.html $103.47 + Shipping

Lots of people have had that done to them at quick lube places. Subaru eventually made the transmission drain plug a Torx head fastener to make it harder to do that. Hope it works out ok.

Here is a link to a thread that has photos (12k views and counting!). http://www.scoobymods.com/why-cant-turn-off-t3661.html?t=3661 as EVO says it usually manifests itself as a "I can't turn off my parking lights" thread.

To answer your original question the 99 OBW 2.5L is a DOHC Phase I engine and the 00 OBW 2.5L is a SOHC Phase II engine. IIRC the OBW 2.5L went to SOHC a model year later than the others (Forester, Impreza). I'm with the other opinions above in that those generations of 2.5L engines do have piston slap when cold, usually goes away or is greatly reduced once the engine oil warms up.

Take a look here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_28/lubrication_system/oil_cooler_engine/ Item 8?

Start here for used parts availability nationwide: http://www.car-part.com/ To find interchange info go here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ Pick your car and once you find the Part number click on it and it will display where else that part is used.

think this response from your other thread, pretty well answers your original question. trans pump is not accessible through the pan. remove the transmission and separate the front diff from the transmission assembly to get to the pump. in general these transmissions are robust making used a very good option. since there's a low demand they're often easy to find cheap. i bought an EJ 4EAT a few years ago from a yard with a 90 day warranty, under 100,000 miles for $150. hardly worth fixing the old one for that price, although that's below average. point is, you might want to look and price it out just to see what you can find. someone on here might even have a known good transmission for you. Gloyale has a great write up on removing the front diff, might want to check that thread out. You'll start getting into work that effects the backlash and that's critical to not screw up or you'll be fixing it again. Not terribly hard and with help from this board you should be good to go, but a fair warning in case you've never dove into trans/diffs before.

I have had experience on other transmissions where the pump made noise and filled the transmission fluid with lots of fine metal particles. Its' hard to say but I would think a trans R&R would make the most sense. My experience with transmission shops (at least the chain ones) is that they want to rebuild your transmission often at high cost. Changing it yourself limits your exposure to the cost of the trans that you know ahead of time. That's my $0.02

Not sure if this will help, but best I could find: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/automatic_transmission/

There is lots of discussion on the Internet about what is the "best" oil filter, almost as much as what is the "best" oil. Here is a link to a thread about Subaru OEM Oil filters here http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18231&highlight=filter if you really want to get in to it here is another thread about Subaru filters at Bob is the Oil Guy: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1410171&gonew=1#UNREAD Seems the main difference between the aftermarket oil filters and Subaru OE ones is the filter bypass value, the Subaru spec is 23 +/- psid. The aftermarket ones are lower. How important that is beyond by level of knowledge. Best thing is that we can each make our own choice on what oil and filter is best for our cars.

Getting a Scanner is a good idea. Based on his use of G'day and Mate he might live here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobart Not likely the same Auto Zones around there as there are here!

You may want to order an outer tie rod end too. It is common for the boot on the outer tie rod end to be damaged during removal. You may also need an Inner Tie Rod Tool like this or maybe not depending on how difficult it is to access. Some have said its not needed.

Here is a link to a posting that gives some background info on the Subaru Oil Filters: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-service-seattle-subaru-oil-filters-explained/ I've heard that the 2010 2.5Ls have a different filter.

The Forester is based on the Impreza platform. I'm certain there are parts that are interchangeable, but I don't know which ones. The opposed forces link above will let you identify a part on your Legacy and then see where else it will fit. Since you are in effect trying to find another car that you can swap parts from your current vehicle to, it would make sense to get a similar platform for the maximum interchangeabilty.

Sounds like a bad inner tie rod end. The rebuild in the manual is exactly that, a rebuild. You can change the inner tie rods without removing the rack. I read a how-to somewhere and IIRC getting the boot on the rack on the drivers side was a bit of a challenge. The vibration when braking is likely warped front rotors and it may be made worse by the worn tie rod end.

Without the PXXXX code we can guess all kinds of things. Do you have any friends with OBD-II code reader to get the code? My '99 2.5L Outback did the same thing and it turned out to be the Knock Sensor (P0325 code) but that doesn't mean that is what yours is.

Gotta love parts staff that can find part numbers that fit your car and not simply say the computer says! or I can't find it! +1 for Jason!