talldude

Mine is bolted directly to the steering box shaft for now, but I have a new rubber coupler on order through LD, $38. There's like 15 left in the US, they say. That's got to be one of the most plentiful gen 1 dealer parts out there...

The steering universal from a '95 Impreza fits perfectly- direct bolt on.

Always like part #s. Not sure about rear shocks yet, but I think I'd like to mount them in the fenders like stock. Coilovers for sure, though. What did you do to extend your steering? Looks like a 3 inch extension on the lower shaft (just above the rack) should do it.

OK, I slotted the trans xmember blocks about 3/8 inch and everything bolted up. Now to see how the engine and trans mounts fit with everything assembled.

Thanks for the info. I am leaning towards slotting the trans xmember lift blocks, as I figure the leading rod dimension is a good one for the engine to trans xmembers relationship. Mine has been in pieces so long it feels like it will never get done, but a little bit each week...I hope to be driving it by next spring. Nice pix of your rig too, BTW!

Here's pics of the undercarriage (hopefully they are attached). The trans xmember blocks are not installed as I am undecided as how to proceed: shim the leading rods so all blocks bolt on, or slot the holes in the xmember lift blocks to fit to the leading rods and engine crossmember. I just don't want to throw off the engine/transmission mount relationship.

I'll post a few pics as soon as I can get out there with a camera. It seems that the leading rods (they connect the front lower control arms with the trans xmember) dictate the distance between the engine and trans xmembers, and I don't want to load up the control arm bushings too much, either. I'd say I'm .25+ inches aft on my trans xmember lift block holes, all 4. Regarding the shocks question, I meant rear shocks. Can't wait to drive this thing in the snow here- it's gonna be great!

Hi Bill, I bought RebelYJ's 4 inch lift kit last year and am almost finished with the install on my '78 BRAT. One issue: The front suspension leading rods appear slightly short with the lift blocks in. To make the recommended torque on the leading rod nuts (at the back) I have to tighten them all the way to squish the rubber bushings. After doing that, I'm about half a bolt hole off the trans crossmember lift block. Any thoughts on the best way to fix this? My truck isn't bent as far as I can tell, and I haven't test fit the engine/trans to see if the 2 crossmembers are the correct distance from each other. Should I just shim the leading rods to the lift blocks? Also, have you found any coilover shocks (or regular shocks) that fit after the lift is installed? Anyone else's thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks for the kit-nice job.

NAPA has a couple different kinds in a tube, just ask. They also sell the individual packets, but they're more expensive.

I've got most of the exhaust system from my '78 BRAT with a few extra pieces. I'm doing a drivetrain conversion so I won't need it. You're welcome to come look. It would be cheap so I can clean up my yard! Pollock Pines, just up the road from Placerville.

My local dealer here in Shingle Springs can get ball joints and outer tie rod ends still for about $55 each. Otherwise ebay, but sellers there seem reluctant to give up their manufacturers; I think most of it is pretty cheap stuff unless they say differently. I bought a pair of inner tie rod ends there that seem to be decent quality; time will tell. BTW, I travel to Paso often for work; would love to see your truck sometime.

I agree- a very smooth running little engine. It sounds like a sewing machine in our 71 vert., much better than the air cooled VW.

Finally did the overhaul. Everything dimension checked standard, so I ball honed the cylinders and installed new rings/bearings/seals/gaskets. It's back together now and ready to put in the car. The only things I found was a few of the oil control ring grooves were a bit carboned up and #4 rod bearings grooved from some contaminant- the crank journal was fine. I believe that with the exception of the rings losing a little tension due to mileage/heat stress, this is a very durable little engine- I saw virtually no wear inside.

Tore it down last week; no internal issues, just needs a hone and new rings, bearings, and gaskets. I guess I could have kept driving it forever as long as I put a quart in every 500 miles or so!

Get the best books you can find, get to know a great parts person at a dealership, and do it yourself! Besides, you get to buy tools...

All my old good stuff is up on blocks or otherwise a work in progress. Will I get strung up showing in a 99 Forester? I'll bring pics of the "good" stuff (though the Forester is a fine automobile).

Before I took it out I did 2 compression tests- a standard and a differential with an aircraft engine compression tester. Standard showed 120-130 all around, and the differential showed very minor leakage out of the crankcase. I am by nature optimistic and will assume for now it needs new rings and not a bore job. Now I can't wait to tear into it to see what's going on! Maybe next week...

I pulled the engine yesterday, everything is routed correctly because I transplanted it completely stock, down to the charcoal cannister and O2 sensor. The wiring took the longest, as I rewired the whole car at the same time (the VW wiring was a nightmare, left my wife stranded many times, so it all went away). Teardown and dimension checks to follow soon. At this point a rebuild is less of a hassle than going down the hill to the yards and pulling another engine, although I did find one with 150K on it at the RC yard recently. Thanks for the great advice so far!

I would take that for a round bore; either way it gets rings and bearings. Part of the problem may be that I bought this as a longblock from an engine importer. They claim low miles but no way to really know. Maybe its just tired...

I'll be pulling the engine out in the next couple of weeks. I think I'll just dimension check everything and go from there. Seems like the rings give up the ghost when the engine gets hot. Hopefully I'll just need to do a quick overhaul on the block with a ball hone on the cylinders. I decided to keep the engine in this car because it is a good match (SPFI runs great, especially with the altitude changes we put the car through) and I don't want to retrofit again right now; especially with the gen 1 BRAT in the driveway clamoring for an EJ!

I put an EA82 in our 71 Bug convertible about 8 years ago, now 15k miles later, it is burning a lot of oil. Rebuilt the heads 2 years ago, so valve stem seals are ok, so I'm pretty sure the rings are worn out. The engine did get hot a few times (240 degrees or so while working out radiator issues), but not enough to blow head gaskets; it kept running and always got us home after we let it cool off. My friend who runs a Subie shop says the rings are worn and most likely the cylinders are no longer round and will need to be bored. He doesn't know of anyone in the area that will touch a bore job on this engine. I've read several threads that recommend just a hone. Has anyone ever bored out an EA82 and is it worth the trouble. Are oversize ring kits available? Am I high to not just grit my teeth and put an EJ22 in this car? Other than this the engine has been a lot of fun in this car, and way more reliable than an aircooled VW.

Main Street Auto in Placerville; Jeremy Lamberson is a friend of mine and is I think the most honest mechanic I've ever met. Plus he just put a EJ25 in his brothers old VW type 1! A true Subie mechanic and enthusiast. 80 Main St Placerville 530 626-7066

I'm a little confused about uploading pics- Under FAQ's it says there's a way to do this through the control panel, letting one browse for pics. I don't necessarily want to open a photobucket account if I don't have to. Any suggestions?

I'll post as soon as I figure out how.

Hi Everybody, I've been looking for awhile, thought I should join up. We have 4 Subies in the driveway, including a 71 VW bug vert with an EA82 and a 78 BRAT I am contemplating what to do with. The bug gets an overhauled engine this winter, and I'm tempted to do a lift with an EJ drivetrain on the BRAT, in part because stock parts are so hard to find. The truck will eventually be a daily driver and have to handle pretty deep snow, no hardcore off roading. Thoughts on how to proceed with the truck would be welcome; too many decisions! Anyway, thanks for a great forum!