swampbrat

door lock light - can probably pull the bulb, dome light - pull pin switch and clean it , check wire connection. If ok with meter pull lense off light , a spring loaded ball bridges the metal strips. check and clean , make sure plastic llever that holds spring and ball is not broken or wallowed out.

I have run into a couple similar situations. On a 1980 Brat , the inside of the battery cable clamp developed a glaze. On a DL i had ( AND ALL SUZUKIS ) , you get a problem where the key switch doesn't send enough power to the starter solenoid and you have to add an additional relay between the 2.

Thanks for info , not sure if I want it hitting 15psi too often. This is our main vehicle so i need it to last. I take it that a manual boost controller goes in that little line between the two. That being the case , it would not limit boost as a bpv would , correct?

So I could run the vacc line from the pressurized side of the intake right on the turbo to the wastegate valve and it would prev ent it from going over 10 if everything is in order? I was thinking of putting the wastegate valve off the old one on it. I was under the impression that these were hard to trick into boosting over 9psi. I'm going on memory of Skip's wagon from 10 yrs ago. 7-8 normal , fuel cut at 9 ,etc.

everything is stock. I found a vacc hose hidden under some stuff not connected that goes to the wastegate control thingy. I was hoping that would fix it, it still wants to go to 10+ if I get on it a little. I was hoping to verify it by hooking up a temporary pressure gauge but it only reads to 7psi. Is there a bypass valve or something I can put on here as a safety that can be set to 7psi? On a side note, I took the old turbo apart. A little piece of flat metal had gotten sucked up into the turbine and locked it up. After I got it out it seems to work fine - now I have a good spare - or maybe a toy for the samurai!

I received the new (used) turbo yesterday and got it all together last night. The biggest problems were the pvc pipe behind the intake cracking to pieces and an extra hand needed to rehang the exhaust. I fixed the pvc with some brass 3/4" pex fittings and new hoses. RESULTS: ho boy! Not a racecar but way faster than I expected. I may have an overboost problem though. My cheapo boost gauge runs over 10 at WOT. It doesn't sound like it is hurtng anything but I told my wife to take it easy until I can verify what's going on - intercooler time!

For the most part , they are simple to work on and fairly interchangable. For the tough questions you have this board.

good? It turned out great!

ditto on moving the compressor out of the way. If you go to get your system up again re-post. If the charge is low the compressor will drop out on safety. You can test it by jumping across the lpdo switch and see if the compressor comes back on. If it's low - there is a reason. Squirt all the fittings and shaft seal down with soap water and see where it's going. Should raise bubbles at leak.

ok , nobody is responding to my wtb post. I would really like to get my wife's car back on the road. How much do you need out of a good one and shipping? I guess paypal automatically exchanges currency , right?

I am posting in wtb for a new turbo. I found some td04s on ebay - a little pricey and It looks like I would have to mod things to fit. (?) - I just had to give Brian a hard time about the bolts!

Well guys , I dropped the down pipe ( 20 bolts later Brian ) , the vanes on the exhaust side look good but when I try to turn it , she locks up every quarter inch or so. Loyale pm'd me , he has 2 turbos so hopefully I can get one off him. On a better note , I just sent a reply to a guy in dallas that has a cool set of snowflake wheels fs.

Clearly , I need to visit Washington to shop for Subarus!

Nothing sounds like an exhaust leak on it. At certain RPMs it has a rattle on the driver's side- more like a vibration. Since I am borrowing a truck to take out of town Saturday I can relax a little and take my time on this. I hope to take it apart this evening and see whats in there.:-\

I have checked all the suggestions I could find out of 5 or 6 threads including the following. Wastegate lever moves freely ,diaphram holds vaccum , no leaks on intake or hoses , air filter and intake clear. It starts and idles great. timing at 22 deg with green plug connected. No smoke , not using oil, just wimpy. Vacc gauge swings to zero under full acceleration but will not go into positive ,power light never comes on. I am thinking I should pull the intake hose or maybe the whole turbo and inspect vanes or see if it is locked up. Any ideas? I may be in the market for a turbo , will see then post in wtb. PS....The dipstick looks awfully varnished for only 120k ...oil overheat in past???

In November last year , we were in Kane Creek canyon and spotted a HUGE red gen 2 wagon. It was very dusty and it was going the other direction. I would've loved to talk to the owner. It may have been sitting on a truck frame for all I know. Anyone know this rig? Maybe you are on the board??

Thanks guys! I'll check on ebay later today. McBrat , I noticed you have a gas gauge in yours. The fuel level does not work on either of my cars - one digital the other analog. Is that gauge hooked to the stock sender? How do you like it? I had a lot of advice on previous threads - apparantly I have a bad module in the cluster.

What's everyone using and how do they like it? I have seen a lot of great ideas for gauge locations on several threads. I would like to put the boost gauge next to the windshield to keep the trip computer and clock readout. I really like superdave's setup. What car was that originally made for? -or is it a generic one?

Cool, add timing belts to the shopping list. I will check coolant this afternoon. I should add that I have a 92 wagon for parts with a spfi motor ( will search threads for interchangability info ) - It seems to be locked up from an overheat though.:-\

Wife's new car...88 gl10 turbo awd automatic RUST FREE california car! Sat for 7 years in a field. Cleaned up good. So far - new tires, cleaned tank and pump, changed out air ride for struts. Swapped radio for alpine mp3 player w/ ipod dock. Up next... pioneer 12" sub, boston components, logic 1200 amp, repaint top of car factory grey, install hood scoop. (Parts already in stock or ordered.) I also have a tranny gasket on order. It starts on the 1st turn and runs smooth but is kinda slow. I will be plumbing in a boost gauge this week to see how it is doing. Once the windows are tinted I plan on modding it a little - intercooler, k&n , bypass valve, manual boost. Have to keep it safely holding together ( under 10psi?) (we are at 4300' elevation.)..oh yes, it only has 121,000 miles - the newest subie I have ever owned! Any ideas or advice much appreciated. Our toyota was stored 7 years also and needed quite a few parts in the ignition system - I haven't even changed oil in subaru yet. Any items need to be addressed?

2 out of 3!!! Well , I tore into the parts car on lunch. Low and behold - the blue plug goes to a rear wiper! The white plug goes to the ac. now I understand why I had a little orphan plug , our car is a sedan, the blue plug should be left danglin'. Now if I can just get the gas gauge to work. I also have stero stuff ordered but I will start a thread in the electronics section on that - maybe even figure out how to post pics.

I just moved away from my home state ( born in ocala ). Back in Page Az and even more recently back into Subarus. Subaruarnie is a great guy - wonder if he is still into them. He actually gave me a running wagon once for free when we were in a pinch and lived in Deltona!

I don't remember it being that hard. Back in 03 I put power steering on my brat. I know I cut the welded plate off the bottom with a 4" grinder. I may have drilled holes for the lines with a uni-bit. Engine and steering came out of a GL10. Sorry I can't remember much. There was some pics of the motor swap on subarujunkies old site.

project update! I got the suspension system changed over today. Car sits surprisingly high - I think the wagons have stiffer rear coils so it's up a bit. As for the fuel gauge - no progress, I tried out a different sender and jumping things out. For now , I just pulled the bulb out of the low fuel light. The relay bank was hidden over the fuse box in mine - came out with 3 screws. I tried swapping harnesses to different relays but it still would not kick ac on. Fortunately , I put the battery in the parts car and my wife's key actually turns on the ignition. The ac/heat buttons/blower all work. I will tear into it tomorrow and figure out the wiring so I can fix the gl10.