swampbrat

okay , In response to testing behind the gauges- it seems to rad exactly as in the trunk. 5 volts on the white/yellow to ground , mv on blk/yel , mv between two wires. Getting really frustrated with this deal but thats old cars. Sorry about jumping threads - I have been off the board so long I may as well be a total newb! ( flame away )... Took most of dash apart also looking for hidden blower relay. Wires seem to go towards right from switch and disappear. Hope to find bank of 4 near middle of dash, My friend didn't get to PO in time - his xt FSMs are in -hopefully the schematics are similar.

I like the plywood at the front- must be for aerodynamics -just like on an 18 wheeler!

Still trouble. I have this mentioned on another thread also. Basically I have the 5 v coming from gauge but only millivolts coming out. Shouldn,t I have between 0-5v coming out? Jumping it out won't move needle either so maybe I have morre troubles.

Thanks! I may still need them. The wagon turns out to be a Loyale with the 5 speed push button 4wd. If it was DR I would still need your struts as I would have a car worthy of fixing. I didn't have a lot of time to look but I didn't see any controls for a diff lock ( not awd ) or LR. It is also kinda rough. Missing the back seat and some glass , and battery. Some body panels are nice , others are trashed. The tailgate is rusty. Ext. white, inside blue. Once I start stripping it some parts will undoubtedly end up in fs or on ebay. Hoping to fix last couple problems with parts and get my gl10 turbo on the road!

I was reading them in the trunk , I stripped some insulation back on them both. Yes. the white/yellow with the 5 volts was coming from the gauge. I bought a parts wagon tonight. A loyale 4x4 with 5 speed pushbutton.I need it mainly for the struts. It has analog dash but I may try messing with the sender in it.

will continue search for fsm. I have two chilton's books - second one because it had wiring diagrams. dissappointed in how basic they were - typically engine harness for newer cars. I have an fsm for suzuki and toyota corrolla - super helpful. Maybe the blk to grn/blk is the problem. I only get changing resistance between the other 2 wires. Maybe I should post on the wtb section for an old digidash for parts ...

I was working on it before I read your post. I read 5.02 V constant from the wh/yel to gnd. Is that opposite of correct? On the black/yel I only have millivolts. Bypassing the sender doesn't even change the gauge reading- could it be the actual gauge? All the door locks work now -wd40 miracle! None of the function buttons light up on the ac controls. I cured the vaccum leak but suspect a harness somewhere is unplugged. It must relay power to the blower switch because it has no voltage either. I will continue my search for a set of FSM. My friend just bought all 6 xt6 books for $90.

great info! I had just enough time on lunch to check the door lock light. Turns out the back doors (especially) are not locking all the way. I will pull the panels and clean/lube the solenoids. Probably full of dust and cobwebs like the rest of the car was.

I ve pulled a lot of them over the years. Lost a front wheel one morning. Found in top of tree at bottom of canyon! I hit my wrench against the solenoid once and melted a gold ring off my finger - still have the scar!:-\

yes , that's it. The tank is almost completely full - digital gauge still reads empty - low fuel light on. I have the sender out and you can see the tank is full , float works , resistor seems to work , checked w/ ohm meter, tried bypassing factory wiring. Anyone know which wire is energized to the sender? blk, blk/yel,wh/yel? Is it a full 12V?

excellent! I am going to look at a wagon tomorrow. If the struts are good I'm golden. Only problem I might have is if it runs good I may be tempted to pput struts back on it and drive it too. I miss my old DR wagon.

I may have to get with you on those struts - I will know more on wed night. All the doors lock with the switch - the light flickers but does not go out. Maybe over time - it had seven years to sit and corrode. when I get the suspension working I'll run it down a sandy wash at speed - that should shake it loose!

has anyone followed thru on changing out system to normal struts? I am considering it for my wife's car, if computer and compressor is removed , annoying light should go out , right? Is the coil struts off a wagon a true bolt in?

your headlight relay may be toast too. i just killed the one on my son's old toy working on the horn.

Thanks for the tips. I will pull the door apart and see if the mechanism is dirty or corroded. Anyone have an idea where to look for a relay or schematic for the blower switch? I stayed up late searching a chilton's manual and the board. no success. Sure wish a fsm would pop up on ebay:). The sender has 3 wires and a gnd lug. The blk/yel and wh/yel seem to go all the way to the gauge. The black must end somewhere in the unibody. Which one supplies power ? is it 12V or knocked down to 5 somewhere? thanks in advance!

Scenario... I am not finding the exact same things in searching recent threads , maybe these were addressed a long time ago... I have a rust free 88 Gl10 I dragged home from california. I have most of the major issues addressed, The air ride was being rebuilt until I found lots of scoring on the cylinder walls of compressor. I am going to look at a wagon to take normal struts off of. NEXT problem... The door lock light won't go off. Is there a sensor in the driver door or something? NEXT...the blower - motor GOOD, fuses GOOD, resistor pack GOOD, switch , seems good but does not have power going to it -Relay??? I thought it was possibly the vaccum switch behind it not enabling it ( had bad leak ) but I replaced it ( thanks Greg Pilot! ) , that's a big one - the only other problem is the gas gauge readsa empty with lo fuel light on. I checked and cleaned resistor in tank - readings change resistance - A search mentioned bad wire connects, I think it's ok. I tried jumping wires from sender to back of instrument cluster ( white/yellow - blac/yellow ) no diff... Any help with these 3 probs much appreciated!!!

Both sound cool , I sure miss my DR wagon - just don't know how much I would miss the zuk if I sold it.

Thanks Guys! I picked up a more modern chilton manual with wiring in it. I think I have enough to do some tests and figure out which wire or connection is bad.

I could not find specifics in search mode. I picked up an 88 gl10 that has sat for 7 years. I cleaned out the tank - fuel pump , and resistor. It runs good now. But... I checked the sender with a meter and it seemed to work - ohms changed with movement. However after putting gas in car it still reads empty with low fuel light. Another problem or just bad sender? does anyone know a supplier for these? can I use one off a different car? I know this could go under more than one post section - just need ideas or options. Thanks!

Yes it was ! That was the worst subaru I ever owned. I traded my beautiful lifted wagon for that junker - the first day I owned it , it would not start back up - didn't run for weeks! I tried taking it home after finally getting it going and got pulled over and ended up going to court! The body was rusting thru ( from Hawaii)- the engine constantly quit, tranny blew up , rear end quit, air never worked, everything all the time. To top it off the guy with my nice one owner wagon totally trashed it and covered it with stickers:slobber: That's one of the major reasons I sold off all the subarus. I should have kept the wagon and my wife's loyale. Hindsight is sooooo 20-20 it hurts!

Hey , as to Australia - no, but I would love to visit. Brian, I can't remember it's been so long. I know I shipped several sets of pug wheels out your way to different folks. I could use a set now or some alloy 13" or even 14" - then I could use my friend's old xt tires. Anyhow - good to be back. I wonder if Arnie in Fl still has a yard full of soobies...

Hi everyone, I used to be on the board earlier in the decade as zukbrat. I had a wagon with homemade lift, 6lug wheels, snorkel, 28" swampers, a gen 2 brat with similar lift, power steering, welded rear, pug wheels and 29" swampers. I had a bunch of other subarus and a suzuki sj410 while living in Deltona Fl. Florida went down the toilet real bad - ended up back in Page Az on Lake powell - lots of good 4 wheeling! I just picked up a awd GL10 in Ca off ebay for my wife- turbo automatic etc. I have a nice Samurai on 33s built thoroughly for wheeling right now but may be looking for another dual range wagon to replace it. Look for some posts on wanted to buy section... I need tires and maybe nice wheels for the gl10. Is Brian's subaru4x4 site still out there somewhere? Thanks!