TOONGA

Is the engine cold or warm when you are revving it like that? as it looks like the choke is trying to engage still. How long has it been since a kit was put through the carby? How long has it been since a tune up was done? Are the valve clearances right? TOONGA

I can find pictures but no FSM material sorry http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110449-sourcing-parts-for-a-dual-carb-ea-81-updated/ http://offroadingsubarus.com/ea81dc/ I hope this helps TOONGA

The castellated nut is tightened by using the how tight can I make this method. with the handbrake on and the car on the ground so the wheel won't move, tighten the castellated nut by hand until it won't move. Then get a breaker bar of around 3-4 feet. I use a one inch drive socket and a 2 foot breaker bar with a four foot long by 1.5 inch square hollow tube over the breaker bar. this is then taken at least half a turn tighter. you can use body weight or brute force. generally this will make the castellated nut tight enough. find the lined up hole for the split pin, if you need to move the castellated nut go forward not back until you line up the hole. The axle you have put in if not inspected may be worse than the one you took out. Either buy new ones or rebuild then yourself (very messy but you know what you get) The hub spline can be damaged and not look it, the tops of the splines should be squared not pointy or missing. I have seen them polished flat, but that was because the owner decided that it was fun to drive around in rear wheel drive, after the front hub spline got that damaged the car wouldn't drive in FWD. these photos show how to replace the boots while they are apart the CVs can be taken apart cleaned inspected and rebuilt. The procedure is from an FSM for a liberty but it is basically the same for all models. Photobucket is down for maintenance so when it is back up the photos will appear. (hopefully) TOONGA

Is the clicking constant when you turn or just hard right? It could be the outer CV joint or the hub the CV locates in. TOONGA

A picture of the ignitor would help is it internal in the dizzy like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Ignition-Pickup-Standard-LX-523-fits-77-80-Subaru-DL-1-6L-H4-/121838693303?fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ADL&hash=item1c5e26ebb7:g:Q3MAAOSwbdpWbAjM&vxp=mtr TOONGA

They are different to the front axels the cv cups are smaller as is the shaft. they can be rebuilt which is what I have done to mine on my AU delivered brumby. The only source of "new?" shafts I can find is this seller in Australia and they are for the "L" series. As I understand it they won't fit the Brat/ Brumby http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-LEONE-L-SERIES-REAR-CV-DRIVE-SHAFT-/231778408454 Sorry I can't be much more help TOONGA

At the front of the motor where the oil light sender is there will be a little box with the "EJXX" identification this picture shows an EJ20 motor id from this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1468169 hope that helps as well the engine number is on the back of the block good luck TOONGA

Make a stroker motor http://www.briancrower.com/makes/subaru/ej257b_stroker.shtml one example of the kits available. but they are not cheap as this ebay search shows http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=strokers+kit&ul_noapp=true&_fromfsb=0&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsubaru+stroker++kit.TRS0&_nkw=subaru+stroker++kit&_sacat=0 good luck with it TOONGA

There are many options out there If you want the boxer burble / rumble you need to have uneven headers to start with http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1445402 then something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-4-MUFFLER-ROLL-TIP-TURBO-CATBACK-MIDPIPE-EXHAUST-FOR-05-09-LEGACY-GT-BL-BP-/401000302342?fits=Year%3A2006|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item5d5d7b0706&vxp=mtr or this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maximizer-Catback-Exhaust-System-For-2005-2006-2007-2008-2009-Legacy-GT-Sedan-/201439604819?fits=Year%3A2006|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&hash=item2ee6bc7053&vxp=mtr Good luck with it TOONGA

download it for free from here http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-%28FSM%29-Every-Model-USDM-EU or here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ TOONGA

only other thing I can think of is the crank angle sensor which apparently is in the distributor. Or it could need a carby rebuild. TOONGA

So very disappointing that these were never built for the Australian market that looks great TOONGA

according to the internet error code 11 is Ignition pulse system/crank angle sensor http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ does your justy have a crank angle sensor? Otherwise there is still a fault in the Ignition pulse system TOONGA

You should start a thread on AUsubaru http://www.ausubaru.com As you are in Australia There is no conversion kit as such but the swap can be done. I'm sure you will not only get the help you need but you may even find someone who can help you with the whole swap. Good luck with it all TOONGA

Not a problem I hope you can work something out TOONGA

The bottom mount is a direct fit the top mount requires a bracket to be made so that you have a mounting point for the top rubber. this is the mount I made it shows it in use on the miata coil over here is the same bracket on a 4WD wagon shock it was way too long I would suggest making a mount that was the inverse of the one I have, so your brat isn't too high at the back. TOONGA

You will need to remove the front shafts but leave the outer CV joints in place. Then you will need to find a RWD conversion spool to replace your centre diff. If you leave the stock centre in the car will not move as the centre diff transfers power to bothe front and back wheels something like the product below is what you need http://www.streettuned.com.au/Drivetrain/Spools/PPG-RWD-Conversion-Spools-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-5-Speed-99-on-/prod_780.html You will then be able to blow up as many rear diffs as you want TOONGA

I have "vortex / XT rear coil overs" on the rear of my second gen brat. I did have miata front coil overs but they were way too stiff so I swapped them over to my vortex / XT. have a look at this thread on Ausubaru http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15851&page=60 and I think you could use these with just a little bit of modification to make your own top mount bracket http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-bug-Baja-Sandrail-Beetle-Adjustable-Coil-Over-Shocks-/181463898151?fits=Make%3AVolkswagen&hash=item2a40175827&vxp=mtr Does the first gen brat have a torsion bar like the second gen brat? if so you could use both types of suspension. I have mine backed off and the vortex / XT shocks work fine, but if I want to carry a heavy load I just wind up the torsion bar and not a problem. TOONGA

this article shows a good way to set up the circuit, but as stated i would use a fuse of 20 amps minimum, not 15 amp as in the article. http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm TOONGA

No 2015 forester FSM on the site below yet but the 2014 forester FSM is there http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ TOONGA

The best way is to do research on the vin number which is on the compliance plate ( a few different locations depending on the country) and on the fire wall under the bonnet. Obviously the car would be right hand drive as well. Not LHD like the USA delivered cars. Another indicator Is that the compliance plate is written completely in Japanese. (not always JDM) The interior options are different and the headlights and tail lights are different as well. Having said all that I've seen ADM cars with JDM specs so it can be confusing and yes I know you are in New Zealand. a bit of a read on JDM imprezas http://www.subarujdm.com/jdm_impreza.htm TOONGA

Not a link to Chilton guides, but a link to quite a few factory service manuals. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ hopefully your model is there. TOONGA

ok Im pretty sure this is the cap you want http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Sorensen-GP-22-5026-Ignition-Distributor-Cap-1976-87-Subaru-Car-Truck-/381148854839?hash=item58be3dfa37&vxp=mtr It has the offset lugs next to the screws TOONGA

Looking at your cap again it is different to the one listed on Ebay sorry Is there a part number on the distributor? if worst comes to worst there are these distributors on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-1977-1979-Subaru-car-Brat-2WD-Int-50443-/371005321042?hash=item5661a3ef52&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-1977-1979-Subaru-car-Brat-2WD-Int-50443/371005320335?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31192%26meid%3D370e4d75d8304a748d14d534aab1265b%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D371005321042 TOONGA

this one perhaps ? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Cap-Gor-Nissan-And-Subaru-1-6-L4-And-1-8-H4-/261936343170?hash=item3cfc9f6882&vxp=mtr The type and year of your motor would help in tracking down the correct distributor cap. TOONGA