TOONGA

Subaru engines all have a serial number on them, the EJ series have it at the back of the motor. some images to show you the press stamped number is the engine number (the other sticker is the transmission number type) stolen from http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-serial-number-192159.html?s=d74c36665c11afc87b2109f563d2e668&t=192159 and stolen from http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/where-engine-number-stamped-block-35235/ With that number you will be able to get the correct kit for your engine. (hopefully) Good luck with it TOONGA

Ebay motors has a remanufactured distributor going by your part number - 22100AA370 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Electronic-Cardone-31-851-Reman-fits-1987-Subaru-GL-1-8L-H4-/121582989256?hash=item1c4ee92fc8&vxp=mtr Ea81 advance is a little different to the Ea82 see here http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitachi-Vacuum-Advance-Unit-Nissan-Datsun-Subaru-Honda-/331145629218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d19d14e22&vxp=mtr TOONGA

This is a very common mod almost every "old" subaru could benefit with this being done. I did a search on google, as I didn't bookmark the page in my subaru bookmarks taken from http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22702 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/61722-weak-points-in-the-starter-circuit-good-jy-relay-info-for-retrofitting-within/ the USMB thread is actually in the Ausubaru one as well As for Relays you can source cheap relays from anywhere on ebay for around 10 - 20 Au dollars (way less in Us dollars) http://www.ebay.com/bhp/12v-relay-5-pin?_trksid=p2045573.m2388 as long as they are 4 or 5 post and 20-30 amps they will work. TOONGA

Yes you can make a custom crossmember with the lift incorperated but You need to put 2 inch blocks under the radius plates. as well as all the other normal lift spots otherwise you will need to stock up on CV shafts. TOONGA

Very nice score there. I'm extremely jealous The oil pressure guage is working fine. on cold start up they read high, then drop down a little as the engine warms up. The third eye is a "passing" light http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/2013/10/29/subaru-third-eye-passing-lamp/ and from USMB https://www.google.com.au/?gfe_rd=cr&ei=fapzVfT3E87u8wein4GIAQ&gws_rd=ssl#q=subaru+3rd+eye+site:www.ultimatesubaru.org Enjoy your hatch I will say ... if it were mine it would stay as it is and It would be driven only on weekends to car shows ... but it isn;t so enjoy your tinkering. TOONGA

Not too sure about the auto transmission I would be getting a good mechanic to look at it. As for the humming noise there is a part of the airbox in the guard of nearly all subarus with fuel injection. if this isn't in place of the part has been removed to accomdate the different engines air box then it will hum. The hum isn't a problem just annoying. TOONGA

Yes you can remove the studs that hold your carburetor on you will need a set of locking pliers / grips and a lot of penetrine or something similar. Normally I use 2 nuts tightened together on the stud to remove it from the manifold but as they are stripped the locking grips / pliers will be your best bet. They should unscrew with a bit of elbow grease, most people suggest warming the aluminium before trying to loosen the stud. You should be able to find replacement studs in a good auto parts store. TOONGA

Have a look at Elfreddos steering knuckle post on Ausubaru http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25276 In the first picture the last knuckle is from the MY wagon or early brumby. I used the two long pieces of that style of knuckle to make an extended knucle for my brumby with 2 inch a lift kit. Venoms post shows another way of doing it as well with no welding. As they are bolt together solutions they should be legal. TOONGA

This is a problem that all of the older "EAT" transmissions will suffer from at some point..there are 2 sets of seals and a tube made of some sort of plastic, that seperate the auto trans fluid and the gearbox oil in the transfer case. If you can fund/find a kit and the rebuilding of the transmission, go for it. if not look at swapping in a manual box (if thats an option). I had a similar problem on a 91 liberty 4eat box. after lengthy discussions which included selling the car as was, converting to a manual trans or just leaving it. the box was pulled and a seal kit was put through the front half of the box. It wasn't a fun day but we did get the problem sorted out. Good luck with it. TOONGA

The best thing to do would be read the threads in this link http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=70 this thread has the build for the vehicle http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4919 as to what Brumbyrunner did to make that vehicle TOONGA

monstaru's linkhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143670-carb-ej-how-to/ Has info... Which heads does your 1999 legacy have the old style in this photo? or the newer ones like these As only the older engines can use the rear port for the dizzy without modification. There is a bung on the back of the newer style engine but it would take some engineering/machining to mate a dizzy to it. TOONGA

The hardest part is the ignition / distributor/ micro squirt. I have a brumby/brat with an EJ22 a weber 34/34 and an escort dizzy. it is fun to drive great on the beach but not that economical. this page shows an EJ22 in a VW http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=132524 I'm pretty sure he uses a microsquirt (or similar) and an edis system to trigger spark. Some would argue that it would be cheaper to cut down an harness and run the car with its ECU/ECM (but in my opinion not as much fun) hope this helped TOONGA

I've contacted you via your site email about a quote for producing some XT/vortex decals Thanks nice layout for the site as well TOONGA

Thanks thats what it was primarily done for, runs down the beach to go fishing or just to hang out and enjoy the view and swim We had to drop the engine 2 inches, so the hood would shut and we have only put in the strut lift. so the rest of the body / running gear sits up a bit higher. TOONGA

To add to my collection 88 Subaru Vortex / XT AWD 5 speed turbo box with diff lock in an EJ casing EJ22 OBD 1 powered http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20236 how it looked when I bought it how it looked when we finally got the engine in A recent photo with a 2 inch lift and 14"s Sitting on the beach TOONGA

Glad it was an easy fix. TOONGA

If your ignitor, crank angle sensor or cam angle sensor were faulty there would be little chance of your car starting. you have a 4 pack coil on top of your inlet manifold, this system uses the wasted spark system, 2 coils firing at once. I would check the resistance of your wires especially number one wire. you might try swapping the lead with another on the engine to see if the wire is faulty. TOONGA

Not a problem are you a member of AUsubaru? I'm a member here and AUsubaru (and a few other subaru sites:) ) this is what it all looks like cut out of the car. stolen from http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22363 TOONGA

that is the infamous brown relay, it is the ignition relay and when they get old the will affect the way the car idles and preforms. you can still get the replacement from Subaru from between 50 to one hundred US dollars depending on what country you live in Or you can take a chance like I did and grab one out of a wreck (mine still works) Or you can do what most Australians do make your own. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19809 the other 2 relays are for the fuel pump and thermo fans. if you are up there you may as well replace them as well. they are about 20 to 30 US dollars each depending on what country you live in Or you can take a chance like I did and grab them out of a wreck TOONGA

If condensation has gotten into the instrument cluster, then it could be causing a problem. As well it could be the alternator or battery having problems. TOONGA

Wow that makes the timing belt I just replaced look brand new, bending it like that had made it even more unusable than it was 185K and it looks to be the original timing belt, did it have subaru stamped on it or was the brand long gone with wear? If there is any play / sideways movement in any of the pulley wheels they are stuffed as well. A light coat of oil, grease or silicon just so it stays in place while you put the bolts in is all you will need on the gasket. Just gently smear what every you use thinly over the surfaces of the gasket when you are ready to put the pump on. TOONGA

Crossbred Australia once offered a kit to help with the process of this conversion but copyright and production costs saw this kit come to a finish. a link to an image of the discontinued kit. http://crossbred.wikidot.com/products Another way would be to fabricate extra mounts, so you could swap in the five stud components from a liberty/legacy or an impreza or forester, not an easy process but I have seen it done. good luck with it TOONGA

the link works fine I just clicked on it and went directly to the page you must find the file on that page. try this page remember you need to find the link that works http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ as for value the TPS and IACV both send a signal (value) to the ECU this sets the way the engine runs if the signal / value is wrong the egine either runs wrong or not at all. If you cannot set these values yourself then you will need to find someone who can. TOONGA

When you changed the throttle position sensor did you check that the values from the sensor, (once it was bolted in place) were the same as listed in the factory service manual. there is a procedure in the FSM to make sure you have the right value which should make your engine idle at the right speed. When you changed the idle air control valve did you check that the values from the sensor, (once it was bolted in place) were the same as listed in the factory service manual. there is a procedure in the FSM to make sure you have the right value which should make your engine idle at the right speed. if you don't have the FSM there are many to choose from here http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=28539 TOONGA

The igniter / ignitor is on the firewall of the car as in this photo from this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/80582-subaru-legacy-ej20/ As you are in the UK it will be on the right side of the car not the left as in this picture of a left hand drive vehicle. I'm thinking it is either your coil or you ignition relay as an igniter / ignitor either works or doesn't You can pick up a coil pack from Ebay for about 10 Quid http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-impreza-V3-4-coil-pack-/291332715257?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43d4c872f9 TOONGA