TOONGA

they are back on ebay even more expensive than the first time I saw them advertised DOH http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=Hot+Wheels+Subaru+B.R.A.T.&LH_PrefLoc=2 TOONGA

here is a weber jetting chart http://www.triumphspitfire.com/jets.html not sure if you have the weber book https://rapidshare.com/#!download|920p12|1267072237|W%20C%20M.rar|63424|0|0 I would leave the venturis as they are and look at the idle jets and the primary jets. Jet sizes vary, as the bigger the jets the more fuel it will use and the same for the idle jets the bigger the more fuel will be used at idle. I have a weber 32/36 set with 135 main and a 145 secondary, and the idle jets are both 50. this is a good in between set up for economy and power. as well altitude plays a big part in America, Australia doesn't really have that problem, at least not on the west coast anyway. The rebuild kit that comes from redline for the weber has the details for setting the float for the needle and seat. Good luck and have fun with it TOONGA

could be an inbuilt circuitry device stopping the radio from being damaged eg. a bi metal switch. If you have concerns about the wiring that the PO has done start from scratch and either wire it with your dads help or get an auto electrician to do the job. TOONGA

this would solve your problem of not being able to see where it went. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Waterproof-Endoscope-Borescope-Snake-Inspection-Tube-Vedio-Camera-2M-/221135353924?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337cb1b844 TOONGA

The Possom Bourne entry brings back lots of memories. TOONGA

the connector in the middle of the board is for a case fan not a cpu fan. the connector for the cpu fan is tied to the bios and receives a temperature signal from the CPU. From what you are describing I would say the CPU is toast sorry. Try putting the ram back in and the C drive (main hard drive) and nothing else. do you know how to access the bios ? it will be either f2 or f12 on the keyboard at start up once inside the bios (if it boots to bios) you can check the temp settings for the CPU http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/ht/accessbios.htm a good article on how to get into the bios. good luck with it TOONGA

are there any beeping noises associated with this shut down? if so then you are getting a code from the computer thats telling you whats wrong with it. are there any 3rd party devices on the motherboard?, for example a video card sound card or a lan or modem card. Is the CPU fan and heatsink clean free spinning or full of dust? sorry what CPU is it? eg pentium 4 socket 478 pentium 4 socket 720, AMD 486 etc TOONGA

Unless someone put a diff lock centre in the box you got from Australia, the diff lock was only in the "L" series era, then it is just a standard issue bog stock forester box with the 1.44:1 low. like this box http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showpost.php?p=118802&postcount=21 but read the thread by clicking on the link in the signature as it details on how to make a 1.59:1 set of low gears fit into a dual range box, with either your low gearset or the 1.19:1 low gearset TOONGA

I've downloaded them already thanks, probably about 4-5 months ago just to prove to someone they existed. TOONGA

If it was doing it with the old cone washer then all you will do is destroy the new cone washer. I would say your splines are stuffed in the hub. but with out seeing the hub off the car it is hard to tell. TOONGA

Not sure if you want to do this but oil inside every panel is an old one thats used here in Australia to stop rust. Any type of oil is fine (don't use fish oil unless you like the smell), most people use old engine oil. the trick is to fill a degreasing gun with oil and a thinner of some sort then go for it. pull the indicators front and back, open up door trims anywhere you can get into areas where there is an internal space. Make sure you do this somewhere that you don't mind excess oil dripping out of the car. Tar based sound deadeners work a treat as well on the underbody, but it is best to put this on before oiling the car TOONGA

yeah the hubs are dealer parts only and as I understand it shipped from Japan, so expect to pay a fortune. as for the cone washers you should be able to get one when you pull the shaft and hub. TOONGA

lol toasty TOONGA

Try without the initial pedal pump and see if it starts. I had a 32/36 on my engine with an electric choke and when the engine was turned off some the gas in the fuel bowl would drain into the manifold ( I have no Idea why) So if I pumped the pedal when I started the car in the morning it would flood really badly. I would just start without touching the gas and let the engine do the rest. I have since replaced that carby with another brand of weber an ADM34. As good as the webers are they can be fickle in the mornings. TOONGA

Is your vehicle a part time 4WD or front wheel drive? With the "suspected hub failure" you will be able to drive your PT 4WD vehicle in RWD as the front hub won't engage. which will enable you to move the vehicle a short distance to a safer working area. A mate of mine here in Australia drove his brumby in rear wheel drive for around 2 months, until I cornered him one day and fixed his hub and the bearings the free play had destroyed. TOONGA ps I wish my brumby was in as good a condition as that brat

The only way you will know for sure is to take the hub off the disc and inspect it. You should be able to do this without taking the shaft out of the knuckle. from the look of the damage on the shaft where the cone washerand flat washer were spinning, I would believe you have worn your "teeth" away in your hub. The thread on the shaft of the CV is damaged as well. you may get away with using it again or as I'm thinking you may need a new outer CV. TOONGA

I have been told that I should be using the blue 20 amp fuses, as the 30 amp are too much for the wiring. I have not had a problem and hopefully I wont here are pictures of the fuses / fusible links in place. They push down to the hilt on the fuse. my only concern is that the black cover doesn't go back on but the fusible links are sealed so it isn't a problem. As well this car gets driven on beaches all the time and I have never had a "moisture" problem. sitting in the fusabile link tray one removed where it lives my engine bay my brumby TOONGA

the reverse gear aselection problem is normally caused by worn out shifter bushes. there is a fix for it on this page http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/ea81-shifter-fix/EA81ShifterFix.html the ignition problem can be caused by the ignition switch itself as they have an annoying habit of breaking. I like what you are doing with your brat TOONGA

I believe that if you have torqued the castlelated nut up to 145 ft lbs and some then the shaft will be seated and not causing the problem. Have you turned the brake piston back in, some times the piston slips out because of the residual pressure in the line. try that first before shimming with washers which isn't a good idea. Remember turn it back in not push TOONGA

Strut lift and body lift or just a 4" strut lift? if you just have the 4" on the struts only, then you have your shafts beyond their limits. A 2"-3" set of body blocks will remove a big degree of angle on your shafts and stop the problem you are having. TOONGA

Just to point out New Zealand is its own country LPGsuperchargedBrumby lives in Dunedin And yes LPG conversions are done in Australia all the time. Ford has LPG dedicated cars that come from the factory. the biggest problem most conversions have, is the wasted spark on the ignition. this can cause intake explosions. I do know there is a way around this, but I don't know how to do it sorry. In Australia different states have different laws on who can install the kits. as well in Western Australia a licenced gas fitter must do the install. on the east coast it is a DYI unless the laws have changed. TOONGA

I did a search for the code you have and came back with this P0183 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input from here as well as here The battery light would indicate your alternator isn't charging could be a loose wire could be a stuffed alternator. check your wiring for the alternator and the fuel sender as per the diriections in the thread. TOONGA

They were standard on the EA82 Carby model in Australia, but the cold air pipe went to the same spot as where the MPFI air cleaner sits in the engine bay. TOONGA

Check where the cable attaches to the pedal box, it is inherently weak and can be the cause of the un-adjustable clutch cable . I had one break and the fix was to replace the pedal box with a strengthened one. TOONGA

Lesson 1 of the part time subaru 4WD.... do not engage 4WD on concrete, bitumen, tarmac or any other hard surface where traction is constant on all the drive wheels. this causes binding in the gearbox and differentials which translates to jerky movement in small circles or reversing. Take your car to a sand , mud, snow or grassy area and engage the 4WD. You will notice the difference as the 4WD is transfered from the wheel that slips to the wheel that doesn't ( this is how it should work) TOONGA