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TOONGA

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Everything posted by TOONGA

  1. cool, I had a 145 main and a 210 secondary in the weber carby I put on my brumby and it belched black smoke, but ran like a demon. Did you download that weber manual? it has really good information in it on the 32/36 carbys, as well as many other carbys. TOONGA
  2. which type do you have? this or this taken from here with either tensioner you must slowly push the piston back into the sleeve. if you push it in too quickly you may damage the internals, causing the tensioner to fail. you will see, once the tensioner piston is all the way in. where the pin or allen key goes. (make sure you put the key in so it faces out) hope this helps TOONGA
  3. thats jetted for a 4-5 litre motor O_o it must be fun to drive but leave a James Bond cloud of black smoke when roaring past other drivers change the mains and see how it goes What size are the idle jets? TOONGA
  4. not sure I would want to put a gallon of laquer thinner through my engine even if it was mixed with half a tank of gas. I was wondering if putting one through a robo wash or a dishwasher would work? TOONGA
  5. this thread on a datsun board may be helpful http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=20250 it is a subaru diff into a datsun but it does have some interesting ways of dealing with the shaft problem TOONGA
  6. LFFS Low Flying F&%$NG Subaru that was insane a different view of the same STI flying TOONGA
  7. Remove them one at a time so you don't confuse where they are meant to be. On most EA 1800 motors a main jet of 130-135 is normal and a secondary main of 140 -160 is normal as well. Idle jets should be 50-55 air correction 160 -170 for the main and same for secondary I have not much information on emulsion tubes just make sure they go back in the right place. (sorry) With the motor you are running 120-125 for the main and 130 -145 for the secondary main 40 -50 for the idle and 160 -170 for the air correction will work these should help as well weber carburetor manual https://www.rapidshare.com/files/1267072237/W%20C%20M.rar and the notes on webers from an escort haynes I would say https://www.rapidshare.com/files/3160717618/weber%20notes.rar TOONGA
  8. vere well played sir love the light up the night one the best TOONGA
  9. thats a big carby for a small motor (realistically) they do work but they need to be set up properly. What size main and secondary jets does the carby have ? what size idle jets? what size air correcter jets? what size emulsion tubes? Take the timing back to six degrees (between 6 and 8 degrees is factory for this motor) and see if the dieseling stops. then advance it a degree at a time until it diesels, then take the timing back to where it didn't diesel and set that as your timing. as for the flashing oil light at idle what is you idle rpm set at? TOONGA
  10. It would take alot of pressure for the senario you are describing to take place. this would cause your needle and seat to be over pressured and leak into the carby body. what pressure does your fuel pump run at? do you have a fuel pressure regulator? You need to remove the needle and seat and examine it for wear if it is a rubber tipped needle and it has a ring worn into it, replace the needle and seat same for the brass needle and seat. as well as the needle and seat problem, I believe you may have a blockage in your emulsion tubes. if you don't have a weber manual download these notes https://www.rapidshare.com/files/3160717618/weber%20notes.rar or the complete WCM, whose whole name causes rapidshare to block it from existance as it gets reported as an illegal download https://www.rapidshare.com/files/1267072237/W%20C%20M.rar get it while it lasts I can re upload it but it will get removed as weber wants you to buy this for 70-80 dollars AU happy reading TOONGA
  11. While pulling the negative terminal will tell you which item is faulty it can also destroy a perfectly good alternator. the diodes and/or regulator can be damaged. this will either cause the alternator to stop charging or overcharge. either way a 5 dollar multi meter will give you the answer immediately. With the car stopped and ignition off check the batterys charge it should be between 12.5 and 13.5 volts, hold the probes on the terminals for at least 30 seconds to a minute to check for current fluctuations, as this will give you a better indication of the batterys health. start the engine and put the probes on the battery teminals again. you should have 14volts + 15 and above is a problem as the regulator is faulty and is overchargin the battery. below 14 is a problem as the alternator is not charging the battery. This video on youtube has safety over kill but it does show you a way to test the alternator. TOONGA
  12. Pictures of my brumby When I bought it from the front with a 2 inch lift sunbathing wrong angle of attack my XT4 hogging the picture enough for now TOONGA
  13. Keep your tools I didn't when I moved countries and now Im back in Australia, I wish I had never gotten rid of my tools as it is costing so much to restock. Get rid of everything you will never actually use again. sell it or find people that will use it or need it directly. Can you hire a car carrier to get your cars to the next location? Good luck with the move TOONGA
  14. if you are driving a MY wagon or sedan it sounds like the fuel pump is trying to prime or is running. this is a guess by the way, as the type of subaru it is year and any other information, Pictures, video...ETC would help as well. TOONGA
  15. piston slap, hydraulic lash adjusters, conrod or gudgeon pin noise or what I think it is the timing belt tensioner has given up and is flapping in the breeze. TOONGA
  16. a picture of said bung middle left of photo stolen from this thread on engine removal http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133929 hope this helps TOONGA
  17. at the flywheel end of the motor is an opening usually covered by a black plug aboy 2 inches by an inch the timing marks are there behind the plug on the flywheel. TOONGA
  18. PM sent to LPGsuperchargedBrumby and RXleone Would love to see some of these manifolds here in western Australia TOONGA
  19. I have just read through this and what a read, quite an interesting build. Have you solved the "bucking" problem ? I worked on a friends brumby/ brat and it had the same problem, I rebuilt the hitachi, new gaskets on the manifold... the only thing I didn't check was the phenolic spacer which was cracked and not only was it letting air in it was letting water in from the cold start well at the base of the carby / top of the manifold. I have also seen people having problems with the weber adaptor plate not covering the cold start well properly, causing water to get into the manifold under vacuum / acceleration. I miss my old 82 wagon I wish I had never sold it TOONGA
  20. The factory 95 Ej2.5 headers with the small cat to the side fit without modification. I have a set on my Xt which runs an EJ22. I would post a picture but I don't have the privilages to do so sorry. TOONGA
  21. I'm sure I can post here Subaru brumby / brat EJ22 with a weber carby and a escort dizzy 5 speed single range AWD liberty box and many other mods http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15851 TOONGA
  22. I don't have the ability to send you a pm, I paid a subscription but my acount hasn't changed. any other way I can contact you? TOONGA
  23. Hello from AUsubaru Ive been reading about the SPFI ej18 manifold, I have a brumby with an EJ22 carbied motor http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15851 with a manifold that we made. I have been looking for a SPFI ej18 manifold for quite a while but they are very hard to come by in Australia are they still available in NZ. TOONGA
  24. Hello from AUsubaru

     

    Ive been reading this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=928504&postcount=22 about the SPFI ej18 manifold I have a brumby with an EJ22 carbied motor http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15851 with a manifold that we made I have been looking for a SPFI ej18 manifold for quite a while but they are very hard to come by in Australia are they still available in NZ

     

    TOONGA

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