Dj7291993

I've got a 2000 that I picked up with a blown motor (turns out they don't run great on no oil). Put a reman'd engine in it and now use it as my daily driver. I love it. The glass headlight lenses are nice, as they are still clear. 140k you'll want to make sure it's had timing belt, plugs, and other basic maint stuff.

The vice-grips are helpful. You don't want them too tight, but I use them on our wall mounted compressor to keep the spring from spinning out. Also, for the ones you'll be using, make sure to keep them pretty even. Don't crank one down too much further than the other side. Otherwise you can end up jamming the things into the springs. Also, I wouldn't hunch over them, just in case.

I put a Jasper reman'd motor in my 2000 Forester a little over a year ago and have been pretty happy with it. It came with the timing belt, water pump, oil pan, can't remember if I had to use the old valve covers or not. Came with a 3 year, 100k mike warranty. Similar price to the remans from elsewhere. As to is it worth it, that's entirely up to you on how much you like it. Sounds like it probably would be with what you're describing, but I'd get some prices and decide from there.

Will it do it in the air? If you can get it up on stands or a lift, try putting it in gear and cranking the steering to both locks, see if you see anything. That's where I would start.

Head bolts or case half bolts?

Go to the dealer, give them the vin and have them cut a key off of it. Usually, they will want proof of ownership (registration) and ID. It's not that much. Might be worth getting two. Unless of course you've changed the tumbler before.

Really? I see them all the time. We don't do them unless we have reason to condemn them, but they fail quite often around here. Of course, our roads suck, and the cars last a long time here, so the results may vary by region.

More than liekly, it's the bearing plate (a.k.a. strut tops, mounting plates, top hats, ect.). But, sway bar links and other loose suspension stuff can cause it too. If you think it's the fronts, just open the hood, pop the plastic caps off the top of the strut, and watch/feel them while you bounce the front of the car up and down. You can theoretically do that with the backs too, but it takes a bit more to get to them. As stated, wouldn't be a bad idea to do the springs too. Especially if it seems like it's sagging in the rear. 'Course, you may end up opening a bucket of worms if you decide to use the "do it while you're in there" method.

That depends on the type of flushing equipment used. The machine we use has no pump, instead it has a tank with two bladders in it. One of the bladders is filled with fresh fluid, the other left empty. The machine is hooked inline with the cooler. The car is started and, once the fluid has warmed up, the valve is switched from bypass to flush. At this point, the old fluid goes into the empty bladder, forcing fluid out of the fresh fluid bladder back into the cooler lines. Because the machine has no pump, the fluid pressure never exceeds the normal pressures for the transmission. I wouldn't ever recommend forcing fluid through a transmission, that is asking for trouble. Of course, the 3x drain and fill can work too, though for a shop, it is a little more time consuming. That said, if a transmission is nearly shot, anything that forces it to have to relearn its shift adapts can cause it to fail completely. This can even include a loss of power like changing or having to jump a battery. Changing fluid also tends to fall into this, as the new fluid will have a different viscosity than the old worn fluid. If the transmission was running at the edge of what it could compensate for, small changes could cause it to push over the edge, or simply not be able to get back to where they were from zero. As to the original poster, the only Subarus I've seen that have any issues with the relearn are the CVTs, which you wouldn't have. If your fluid is in bad shape, it might shift a little funny at first as wtdash said, but it should relearn it fairly quickly. I've done several though with no noticeable difference in shifting. If your fluid smells burnt though, new fluid won't fix burnt clutch-packs.

Probably want to talk to an exhaust shop. They can help them sound pretty much any way you want. The thing you'll miss is the rumble, because they went to equal length headers. If you wanted that, you'll need custom headers.

Is it a FWD? The 4WDs sat about 2 inches higher, due to the spring perch on the strut being higher. If that's the case, as long as you get it aligned, you shouldn't have any issues. If you don't like it, I think that they combined part numbers for the fwd and 4wd models, with the spring perch being moveable.

Depending on the year, that may not be an option. I know my 2000 Forester uses an Air Fuel Ratio sensor in the front, which won't interchange with a normal o2 sensor. The connectors are different though, so you would notice if you tried. Edit: Right as I hit post, I realized you probably meant replace. Have you tried running a cleaner though the fuel like 44k?

If they are all bald, it should be okay. If you've got different tread depths though, you're going to hurt the awd system, badly. What's the code?

Jasper does rebuilt engines for some of the Subarus now. If you can get one, they've got a 3yr, 100k miles warranty. It comes with heads, timing belt, water pump. Had to transfer the dipstick and some sensors, but pretty complete. Done well in my 2000 Forester so far. Edit: Here's the link to their info on it: http://www.jasperengines.com/blog/jasper-offers-remanufactured-subaru-25l-sohc-boxer-engine

If the car was warm, engine bay air (iat) will be warmer than outside air. However, it is a bit odd that it thinks ambient air temp is low. May be an indication of an issue. The best time to check those sensors is Key On Engine Off after it has sat overnight. All the sensors should be within a few degrees of each other at that point.

I'd jack up the rear, see if it feels like the parking brake is stuck, or if you have a little bit of movement, indicating a problem in the drive-line. I'd also be looking a the linkage. If it somehow didn't release from a forward gear before going into reverse, the torque on it might have let it bind on itself and lock up. One thing you could try is to put a socket on the crank and slowly try to turn it backwards while someone is trying to pull it out of reverse. If it comes out that way, I'd leave it in N, start it up, and let out the clutch. If it tries to take off, you know one of the forward gears is still engaged.

Cavitation is a very different thing from poor flow. Cavitation is caused by the vacuum created by the pump. It is essentially a vacuum bubble that opens in the coolant. When it collapses, it creates a small plasma jet that can turn the metal into swiss cheese. There are additives put in coolant to prevent this, so it is usually caused by improper maintenance. Though, a lot of manufacturers have gone to plastic impellers to help prevent this, so using an aftermarket pump with a metal one can cause it. IIRC, an incorrect thermostat can also lead to too strong of a vacuum, increasing the chances of it. As to the better flow, I can't tell you for sure, though I imagine it's not a huge difference, since the block behind it closes them off pretty well. I'm not a builder though, so I can't argue from experience.

I don't recommend the stant. Either use the Subaru one, or you can go to NAPA and ask for their Altrom line. That one is made by Tama, an OE manufacturer. There is a significant difference in size and weight between those and your normal aftermarket ones. Cap is worth a shot. They're only designed to last about 5 years, and a lot don't even make it that far. Especially here at higher altitudes, you can run into a problem where, without the added pressure on the system, the coolant can boil within the normal operating temperature of the engine. Radiator is also a good place to start. Make sure that air can flow through it as well, and that the fins aren't all flattened out. Doesn't matter if the coolant is flowing good if the air can't flow over it to cool it.

Make sure they're are no running issues with the engine, or leaks in the exhaust. Sometimes, running something like BG 44K through can help if it's just carboned up, but it's not 100%. O2 sensors can cause it, though in many cases, it ends up being the cat. Just keep in mind that, many times, it wasn't the cat's fault. If you have a way to watch the O2 sensors, either through a fast enough scanner or a scope, you can see what the computer sees. For the most part, except in wide open throttle and closed throttle decel, once the cat is warmed up, the back sensor should be a flat-line. Exactly how much movement is allowed varies by manufacturer, but a good quality new cat will have none. The variance in setting the code can come from how much the cat has to deal with. For example, the cat's capacity doesn't need to be nearly as big to handle idle as it does cruising at 45mph. Also, my experience is from Colorado, where rust isn't as much of an issue, so we don't see as many of them caused by leaks.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117212-which-water-pump/?hl=%2Bwater+%2Bpump

Mitsuboshi (not a typo) seems to be the OE for a lot of the Japanese stuff.

IIRC, one is turbo, one is non. I think the longer one is the turbo, but I can't remember for sure. I know the answer is on here somewhere though. You can either use the search function or use google with "site:ultimatesubaru.org" before your terms. All those should be fine. Aisin makes good stuff as GD said, and is the OE supplier for a lot of the Japanese brands. I want to say the are 30% owned by Toyota. Gates makes good stuff as well. EDIT: Got it backwards. Here's the link to when I asked a while back, with a quote from MilesFox in post 3.

Don't think they were using push-button yet, at least not in the US. We have some customers bring in 2014 and 2015 models, and they still have boring old keys.

2013 is a five year old battery, plenty old to be a problem. Cables are less likely on a newer one, but considering the size of cables the OEs are running to cut weight, it doesn't take much to drop them below their threshold. Hitting the starter is always a pretty good one if it won't go at all, but I got the impression that it was cranking slowly, ie. low rpm. Guess it depends on what they're actually experiencing.

If it's a slow start, the 3 things I would check are the battery condition, voltage drop (battery positive to starter positive & battery negative to starter case), and the starter's current draw. If you've got a multi-meter, you can do the voltage drop yourself. I usually put my meter on record mode for max so I don't have to watch it while I crank. Just have to get your leads the right way round, lest your readings go negative. Shouldn't be more than about half a volt on either side, ideally less. They should have tested the battery, but pretty much any parts store will test them for free. Current draw is going to be a little harder without a high current probe, but you can get an idea if you know the battery is good by watching how low voltage drops during cranking. One other thing to try is pulling off the serpentine belt and see if it cranks faster. It's not common, but I've seen accessories lock up that made it act like a seized motor. You can try putting a socket on the crankshaft pulley and turning it by hand. You should feel the resistance as it hits each cylinder's compression stroke, but it should be possible to turn by hand. Basically, if it's cranking slow, it's not getting the power it needs. That could be an issue in the supply (battery, cables, connections), or an issue in the demand (starter is worn causing it to need more current than it should, or something is causing the motor to be harder to turn). One other thing I always test is that the solenoid is getting good voltage during cranking; however, I've never seen low voltage there cause a slow crank. Instead, it usually causes an intermittent no crank.