Dj7291993

And possibly a differential. I know my 3EAT had a 3.7 diff for the auto, and a 3.9 for the manual. 4wd isn't quite as effective when the back tired are spinning faster than the front.

I hate that darn thing. Never put it back on my dad's after I replaced the clutch cable, and the one in mine was for an automatic, so... it didn't fit. Glad it didn't actually cause an accident.

Haha, when I first got mine, I wondered why it didn't chime. Thought maybe it came with the power locks or something (my dad had an 88 GL, so I knew some had it). A year later, when I was changing my transmission, I say a little pink connector under my dash. Well, I couldn't just leave it unplugged, turns out, 'twas the chime. Although, at the time, it sounded quite diseased.

It was the pump. We had thought about the cam, but the oil pressure dropped first. Now, it's possible that the oil pump caused them cam to strip it, but the pump was the problem. With the new pump, that things gauge tops out in the cold , no more tick-of-death, though. @desertsubaru You might be able to reseal it, but I'm not sure. Another family we know was kind enough to donate the replacement for us.

It could have stripped the belts from, as you said, a tensioner, or the oil pump. My dad's 88 was eating driver's side belts, first one lasted a few days, second one lasted less than one. It was losing oil pressure as well, had to keep the rpm up high to have any pressure, then right before it stripped (didn't snap, just ripped all the teeth off), oil pressure would drop to 0. The drivers side drives, well, everything but the passenger-side cam. Sounds like a bad mechanic, assuming something that major based the the disty not turning. Always check the last repair first, no matter who did it. Also, I don't think it will fire, as the sensor that tells it to fire should be in the disty.

That darn little black box is for the auto trans, or is there a can-style relay up there too So, can I cut it outsince my car is no longer an auto? Cuz that thing is always giving me trouble when I have to put the radio back in. Edit: Forgot you said EA81, so my question is probably irrelevant. Sorry 'bout that.

weird, i pulled those from acc, gauges, temp on mitchell. the fi one is a ptc, these are ntc, at least, that is what mitchell says. good to know. also, sorry about my typing, my phones keyboard is being stupid.

well, i am going to the junkyard on tuesday for a wheel, i can grab one for you if you will pay the shipping. guessing you could use a flat rate envelope. let me know, my email is jmhollinrake@wwdb.org. also, sorry for the lack of capitolization, my phones keyboard will not let me use the shift or function keys.

So, I've seen several times that if you want the stock temp gauge to work in a GL, you would need a resistor in parallel with the sender unit. Now, I'm not questioning your experiences, but I've got the resistance specs for the sender off Mitchell OnDemand, and they're almost exactly the same. So, shouldn't it work stock? Specs: 87 GL - 154 Ohms = 104-122*F, 18 Ohms = 242-254*F 94 Legacy - 187.6 Ohms = 122*F, 19 Ohms = 248*F I know the low side (temp) is different, but it's not to far off, plus the high side would effect gauge travel more. I ran the resistances for using a 275 Ohm resistor in parallel with the sender, and the values are way off. So, why in practice do you need a resistor, when in theory they should work about the same?

Sweet, thanks GD.

Ok, awesome. Thanks. Now, I know at some point the engines did gain some interference (valve), was that ever in the 2.2, or was it in the bigger ones only?

So, I'm hoping to do the EJ22 swap in my 87 GL Coupe over the summer (as long as I can get the funds), and was wondering what the pros and cons were to using an OBD-I engine/harness vs and OBD-II. I've been reading numbchux's guide for it, and it seems easy enough. I should probably note that electrical is one of my strong points, in fact, I'm probably most confident in the wiring for the swap. Now, I know it's possible to use an OBD-II engine for the swap, but the guide only covers OBD-I. So, what are pros/cons, how much harder would it be, and is there anything else I should know? Also, I haven't found a car yet, but if I happen to find a good deal on a later car ('95+), then I'd like to know if I can/should get it. More than likely, I'll end up with an earlier one, and this won't be an issue, but hey, better safe than sorry. P.s. I did use the search bar, to no avail, and I don't presently have time to dig through all the results to find what I'm looking for.

I wonder if you have a leaking check valve. Because once you get it there, it should stay. Mine doesn't like to switch, but once it does, it stays. Wish I could find more info on how it works, but I'm not seeing it on Mitchell.

In mine, I usually have to get it going, then let off the throttle completely to give it the vacuum to switch it. Works fine when it's warm, but when it's cold, I have to force vacuum, easiest way is to go from WOT to decel 'till it kicks over (usually a second or two). Once it receives the vacuum, it will hold it until something else releases it (like hitting another mode). Try that, see if it works.

Try flushing it. Flush kits are cheap, and it doesn't take that long to do. All you'll need is a flush kit, something to cut your heater hose with (utility knife works), a screwdriver or bit-driver for the hose clamps (clamps are included in kit), a garden hose, and some coolant. I would recommend not getting pre-mixed, as after you flush it, the system will be full of water. So, just add about half of capacity (I think about 5-6 quarts for my EA82) worth of antifreeze, then top off with water. I think the kit has instructions, but if not, myself or someone else can walk you through.

Check the speed adjustment screw (the one that sticks out, on the front near the throttle side of the carb), if you tighten this, it will slow the idle... until it goes so far in that it props the throttle plate open. I learned that one the hard way. Also, make sure nothing else is holding the plate open.

I had though that, but it seemed weird that it didn't go all the way. Guess you would only have to go to the splice. Well, at least it will be easier later. I haven't pulled it apart yet, as I don't want to leave the panels off for too long. The coupe speakers are right behind the back seats, in the pillars that the seats mount to. I'd have pulled them off already, but they are big panels. I appreciate your input.

I'm searching, but I'm only finding wagon stuff. Do any of you know the size of the rear speakers in the coupe? Is it the same as the wagon (I'm seeing 6"x1/2" for those)? I'm not looking for anything fancy (I have a stock deck), I'm just wanting to have stereo again, as right now, my front speakers aren't wired in (the owner before they guy I bought it from put an aftermarket deck in it... and kept the faceplate, and for some reason, rewired the front speakers, well, half of the way), and my left rear went out, so I'm down to one working speaker. It'd be nice to have at least two.

Did it on my car, and discovered 3 things. One, the records for my car only go back to '95 (my car is '87). Two, it moved to Colorado some time before that (have to original dealer business card somewhere). Three, whatever caused the bondo on the driver's C pillar and the welded left rear quarter panel either happened before this, or was a DIY, as it's record is completely clean. Not sure if that's a good thing or not....

Ok, thanks. Sounds like a 4" it is.

A three jaw puller workes just as well for the hubs, and is around $10 (EDIT: guess they're $20 now, just use a coupon) at HF if I recall correctly. You'll need a 19mm/3/4" (19mm = 3/4") socket, wrench, lug-wrench, an adjustable wrench, pliers, vice-grips, a pipe-wrench, or an iron-grip:lol:. @bheinen74 That set will do you well to start. You should probably get a set of combination wrenches, as that set is pretty limited. I'd hold onto the SAE, they can come in handy for non-soobs (furniture, older American vehicles, and 90's USA stuff used a mix of SAE and Metric ). If you don't have an adjustable wrench, get one. Sometimes you need two of the same wrench, and don't have two. And a hammer, get a nice, big hammer.

Ok, just one more question, for fitting the 225/75R15's of a 4Runner or similar on my soob, with minimal cutting and pounding, would it be better to wait a bit longer, and do the SJR 4" liift over the 2"? I'm mostly leaning towards the 2" for price, but could wait a bit longer for the 4". Will the 4 make it harder to use as a DD? Are there any downsides to the 4" vs the 2"? Thanks for the help! ~Josh

I bumped my tire pressure up to... 32psi I believe it was, made the wear MUCH more reasonable. Best solution I've found so far.

That is a good deal, but since this is a dd at the moment, I'd rather not put too much extra strain on the axles. It is tempting, though. I'll have to think about it....

THANK-YOU!!! That is the info I was looking for. I'll just deal with the bent wheel until I can do the lift, too. I'll start looking for that bit. I have access to a drill press at school, but this is my last semester for my associates degree, so I'd like to do it this spring. One more question, anyone have a link to a write-up on the 2" SJR lift? I've been searching, but haven't had much luck to far. I'm mostly concerned with the steering shaft.