Dj7291993

Lol, that was fun. Although, it wasn't bad at all. My 4wd isn't working (well, it does, but it's a 3.9 in the front, 3.7 in the rear, so... not usable), and my idle is at 2800 right now (working on that), and I was still passing people. Coloradans really don't have an excuse for sucking so much in the snow, though. I happens every year. Oh well, 'tis funny to watch. Well, until they almost hit you, because of their snow driving ideas: The idiots guide to snow and ice driving: Strait road = Go Extremely slow, probably wanna go ahead and ride your brakes. Very slight corner = same as strait. Normal corner = speed up, then lock you wheels at the last moment, all moves should be sudden and jerky. If you know you're not going to be able to get below 20mph by the time you pass the stopsign, try to make the turn anyway. Hill = When approaching a hill, be sure to stop right at the bottom to asses the hill, then, no matter what the hill looks like, gun it, as you miraculously start to make it up, be sure to alternate between full throttle and locked wheel braking. Also, try to use up as much of the road as possible, wouldn't want anyone passing you. The top of a hill (somehow) = Better go ahead and stop at the top, you need a break. When you do decide to start going again, gun it. Also, no matter what all of the training you've had says, you do not need more space to brake on ice. On a side note, does it seem like out of all of the pickups that end up in the ditch this time of year, are Dodge Rams, at least in the springs? It's not like there are more on the road, just seems like there are more of them in the ditch.

Ok, thanks. I'll look him up, maybe pick his brain a bit. I appreciate the input.

Was afraid of that. Is there another easy-to-find size that would fit better?

Ok, thanks. I'd be getting them from the junkyard. As for the tires, I *think* they are 225/75R15, not positive though. I did look in the tires size-lift combo thread, but I don't yet have a lift, so it wasn't much help. Cool about the rack, I'll have to look those up (that was something I had just thought of, so I hadn't had a chance to look yet). I was thinking just a simple luggage rack. I'm sure I'll find some, but what's typical for mounting? Just drill a few holes and bolt it on?

Ok, I'm using the search bar, but so far, haven't been successful. In the meantime, maybe someone can answer my question before I find it. I'm planning on re-drilling my hubs to the 6x140mm and putting on some 4-Runner wheels. What do I do to keep the lug studs from twisting? Also, I can't get the lift yet (although, I do plan on getting either the 2" or 4" SJR lift in the future), so how well will these wheels fit under my stock 87 GL 4wd D/R? I'd rather not have to do any cutting, but I will if I need to. Thanks, Josh. Oh yeah, for the spare, whcih will no longer fit under the hood, how hard would it be to pull a luggage rack off something in the junkyard, and put it on my car (it's a coupe, 3-door), to hold the tire?

I agree. You won't get the valve seal leak at low rpm, especially not idea, and it won't be dropping a high enough concentration of oil to give you the big blue cloud, but it is enough to have to fill it regularly. If the oil is coming in lightly, and you don't have any major vacuum leaks, you wouldn't notice power loss, as oil actually burns pretty well. Since the amount won't ever driven it, it won't affect performance, at least, not noticeably.

Yeah, great recommendations, if I had money. For now, I'm just gonna put a "new" carb in it. believe it or not, the thing hasn't even hit 130k miles.

So, my 87 Gl Coupe (ea82, 5sp d/r) has been kinda crapping out on me lately. I can't rebuild the carb without drilling out bolts, and muffler fell off, egr diaphragm is ruptured, my idle circuit is shot (no matter what I do to it, I can even get the car to start), fan clutch is seized (fine during the summer, when it is 10 degrees (F) out, not so fun), water pump is almost dead, I can't run an air filter on it without the pcv system drenching it with oil (I even tried routing it through a fuel injection airbox, since it was farther away from the engine... took all of 90 seconds to completely clog it with oil), and my fuel mileage has hit a record low of 12mpg. I'm planning on heading down to the pull-and-pay to pick up a carb once finals are over, and I'll either just use that one if it's good, or rebuild it if it needs it (I've already got the kit). Just wondering though, has anyone's stock EA82 ever hit mileage this low (driving normally to conservatively)? Btw, ran a gas analyzer on it today, 2201 HC (ppm), 0.02 CO (%), 15.1 O2(%), 3.3 CO2 (%). Can you say, lean misfire?

Yeah, I'm sure. I have an 87 Gl coupe. I took the front seats from it, as they had the height adjustment, and were generally more comfortable. It didn't have any of the body moldings from the RX, and it said Gl-10. It was in the local U-Pull-And-Pay (Falcon is just east of Colorado Springs, Colorado, the UPAP is just south of "The Springs"). In Colorado, I've seen a DL in the junkyard, that Gl-10 in they yard, and I own a GL of the coupe, but those are the only ones I've seen here. I saw a red coupe in Oregon this summer when I drove up to Portland for a conference, but from a distance, so I didn't catch the trim. I'm guessing GL. I honestly wish I could have snagged it, everything looked alright, my guess is the turbo blew a head gasket, and the owner scrapped it. It even had the Turbo decal on the side. Guess I should've taken a pic.

They're a bit expensive, but these guys offer gps speedometers w/ or w/out odometers. They're a little over $200 per. http://www.speedhut.com/

Yeah, that would be nice. If you didn't understand it, you could just ignore it, but it makes it hard to tell what all could be causing your problem.

Electricity is not that hard people. All you need is ohm's law, a meter (and knowledge of how to use it), a wiring diagram (again, knowing how to use it), and common, or maybe, not-so-common, sense.I'd rather deal with most electrical problems than mechanical ones. The only really complicated part is when you get into modules and body harnesses.

Ok, ignore everything I said regarding relays... apparently, Subaru didn't use one for the horn, at least, not the vehicles I've looked at so far. According to Mitchell's wiring diagrams, the horns get power from the fuse, go through the switch to ground. So, what you should do is, check the fuse, check the horns themselves, then, the switch (the multimeter will come in handy for this part). If it is not one of those, check the ground, any connectors, and double check that you are getting power to the fuse. If none of those work, you get to go wire chasing... I mean tracing.... If you get that far, and you come to tracing wires, I would just run new wires from the horn to the switch, but I doubt your problem is in the wires themselves.

Hey, just so you know, If I recall correctly, your "unknown relay" is for the Rear defrost. I'm 99% sure about that one. As to the location of the horn relay, according to Mitchell's wiring diagram, there is none. They run the horns' power though the switch. Lol, I'm starting to think Subaru didn't really get the idea behind a relay....

I agree with opus, look at your driveshaft. Sounds can be deceiving, and don't always come from where you think they are. If it way after the diff, the speed of it should be different between strait, left corner, and right corner (the right wheel will turn slowest at, say, 25mph, on a right-hand turn, and fastest on a left, while the driveshaft will turn the same speed, strait or cornering). Also, always check the cheap(er), easy(er) stuff (i.e. u-joints and bearings) before the expensive, complicated stuff (your diff).

Edit: Ignore this first paragraph. That is for a normal car, that actually uses horn relays, which, apparently, Subaru does (or at least, did) not. See my next post for what to do on the Subaru. Also, if you can give me your car info, I can probably pull you a wiring diagram, just keep in mind that it will be for the whole car, and therefore, about 10 or 11 pages. The car would definitely help. I think all of the relays are under the dash on the drivers side, but not positive. I know there are 4 there. Have you applied power directly to the horn? Getting a bad part is not unheard of. If the horn doesn't work directly powered, check the ground. If the horn works, then it is not getting power, check the fuse. If that's good, check the relay. Energize it (on the control side) directly. If that works, the problem is on the control side (switch, wiring to and from, connectors). If it doesn't work, check for power at the relay. No power there, and your problem is between the relay and the battery. If you have power, you need to check the relay, by replacing it with a known good one, powering and testing it's resistance, or simply bypassing it (i.e. paperclip (be careful!)). If the relay works, the switch works, and the horns themselves work, the check all of you connectors in between. If you can give a specific car, I might be able to get you a wiring diagram. Also, if you don't already have one, I would recommend getting a multimeter. Even just a cheap one (I think I got one a Harbor freight for $5, probably not the most accurate, but works for what I need it for). They are extremely valuable in electrical diagnosis. Also, if a shop told you to get a new horn, make them fix it. If you told them to replace the horn, without a diagnosis, they might not do anything about it, even though they should've checked it.

I just like to throw in that the search feature here sucks. Whenever I post a duplicate, it's because I finally got tired of trying to find my answer though that thing we call a search feature. Lol, I'm pretty sure that search bar still thinks it's 2000. I agree that you should look first, just remember how much of a pain that thing is to use.

If you have an exhaust leak up front, it could be coming in through the plenum's intake (which, I believe, is right under the windshield). Although, typically, you would notice an exhaust leak, pre-cat, by sound alone. Does it do it on all settings (defrost, heat, a/c...)? Does it only do it on heat, or does it matter what temp setting it is on? If your car has a/c, put it on a/c max (just the button, not the temp setting), and see if the smell persists. This should cause it to start recirculating the air in the car, rather than pulling (fresh) air from outside.

I don't think anyone keeps the 3at very long anyway, ej or not. I would think if you are going to go through the trouble with it, you may as well put a manual in it. As for the 4at, I haven't seen it, but it's possible. I don't think it's much different than the 4-speed auto that same with the ej.

Just keep in mind tire wear. You larger (rear) tires aren't going to wear quite as fast as the smaller (front), as the radius will also be larger. Therefor, each unit of tread is going to have less contact per unit of distance traveled on the larger ones. Meaning? As your tires wear, your tire-size-ratio will change. Doesn't seem like much, but it could enough of a difference to cause a problem. Would probably be similar to making (minor) turns with 4wd on. Of course, if you change your tires more often than most, you'd probably be fine, but over time, it is going to grow. Also, probably not worth the work. I've thought about it before too, as I have the 3.9 in the front, but still have the 3.7 from the automatic in the rear (whatever you do, don't let that slip into 4wd while trying to roll start it. It is not easy to lift a wheel up on a hill). Diffs aren't too hard to work on. I haven't worked on the subaru ones, so I couldn't tell you the tools for these, but the only special tools I've ever needed were a spanner wrench (can be substituted... or made, if need be) and a torque wrench (not sure if these ones have a collapsible spacer or not, but it's good to have a torque wrench anyway).

No, only the front windows roll down.

Are you sure? I got the front seats in my 87 3-door gl out off a red gl-10 turbo 3-door at the junkyard. Had full time 4wd with a locking rear diff. Nice car, wish I could have bought it, sine I'm guessing the engine probably just blew a headgasket or something.

Yeah, I had a suspicion that was the problem, but figured I'd get input anyways. I'll be able to set it tomorrow (work stuff). I should've double checked, I was doing it off memory, and I've only done it once, it was a while ago (vacuum leak that big, and you can't open the idle circuit far enough). I wish they still taught carbs in school (I'm studying automotive). I understand why they don't, but there are still a lot out there, and since the only mechanic in my family lives in Iowa, I'm kinda on my own for finding the info. Anyways, thanks guys. I'll check on that tomorrow. I'm hoping that fixing that vacuum leak will bring my millage back up, as right now, I'm at about 17mpg. I'd like to at least get back up to 22mpg, if not higher. Still kinda jealous of my dad's 88 GL w/ mpfi, 38mpg in that thing.

Ok, so I just replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 87 GL (half of the drivers side one was completely gone, talk about a vacuum leak). Sealed up great. Well, because I had the leak all sealed up, I figured I could take the pennies off the throttle pedal, and try adjusting the carb. I tighten the mixture screw all the way down, then backed off 2.5 turns. Then I went to do the same with the speed screw, but it never tightened down. I went to start up the car, figuring I'd just adjust it from where it was. As soon as I started it, it acted like it had WOT. I shut it off just as it hit 4500rpm. So, I went and tighten the mixture screw all the way down, no change. Moved the choke plate, no change. I'm thinking it is something to do with that speed screw. Please help, I need my car back. EDIT: Scratch that, the throttle is stuck part way open..... Any ideas why? I'll look at it more closely when I get home from work, but what would cause it to get stuck? And the issue is one the throttle, not the pedal.

Hey, so I'm getting ready to do my timing belts and water pump, and am wanting to take off my covers as well, just wanted to make sure that living in Colorado won't add any extra hassles with having them off. I should probably note that last winter, I came out from work to find all of my tires completely iced over. I can't imagine that would be very good for the belts. Also, mine doesn't have the nice little guard under them like I've seen on some in the junkyard, will this make a difference? Thanks. Btw, the Bumble Beast is looking nice.