Dj7291993

I've got a wiring diagram for a 87 EA82 if you want it. Not sure how much it would help, though. It sounds like it is the stuff powered under "Accessory", I would recommend the fusible links, which you said you checked, and the ignition switch. As for the test light (or, "light probe"), I would recommend a cheap multimeter instead. The volt function can be used to tell you if you have power, and the meter will have more used than the light. Also, on newer cars, the meter if safer when dealing with computers, although, this isn't really an issue here. I think I got one at Harbor Freight for $5-$10. Not the highest quality, but it works for the purpose.

I remember when I could do that. Stupid 4wd lever stealing my cupholder.... I'd like to try this, but... the bushings in my shifter's linkage are, well, gone, so my shifter travels pretty far (right at the dust boot's limit for 5th), and would almost certainly hit this.I might be able to put it up higher though.... *gears start turning*

Somehow, I forgot you said ea81 (and cylinders 2 & 4). Just curious, have you removed both at the same time, or just one at a time? I suppose it is possible that those cylinders are dieseling when you pull the wire.

Well, if your wire are new, then that's probably not it. The reason I asked about fuel is, if it was multi port, it's possible that those injectors weren't firing. Since it's carbed, that's not a possibility. You may have your valves stuck closed. Check you timing belts. It is possible for these engines to run with only the drivers side (not well, but possible). Checking it isn't to hard. Just pull the electric fan, and take off the cover (you may need to pull off the fan shroud too, I never put mine back on, so I don't remember). There are a lot of things that can cause a cylinder not to fire, but if they are on the same bank, then you want to look for things they have in common (as I'm sure you know). You could have a restriction in that side's intake or exhaust too, but it seems less likely.

Yes, you'll want to check this side too. I doesn't happen a lot, but you could have a break in the wire. Although, I doubt it would happen in both, on one side. Check this, but I'd say spark is probably good. Is your car carbureted, or fuel injected? And, if fuel injected, is it single-port (one injector on the throttle body) or multi-port (one injector per cylinder, located in the head or intake runners)?

Did you check for spark from those cylinders? I'd check there first. An engine needs three things to fire: spark, fuel(and air), and compression. You said you have compression, so I would check spark. If a valve was stuck open, your compression test would have failed.

Sorry I don't have time to look for you, but here is a wiring diagram for '87.

Get rid of that automatic. Switch it to the 5-speed manual. If you don't know how to drive one, learn. With that engine, that will give you the best boost in power and economy. My engine (carbed) ain't in great shape, and it went from 17-18mpg with the auto to 22+mpg with the manual. You notice a big difference on hills and passing people, and the overdrive will make a big difference in highway economy. The swap isn't very hard, and the tranny was only $100 at my local U Pull and Pay. You also need the pedals, flywheel and clutch, the hill holder or some other return spring setup (I just cut the lines and tied the thing up, you really just need the return spring function), mounts, bolts, and if it's 4wd, you'll need the front half of the drive shaft, and the rear diff (if you don't use 4wd, this doesn't have to be immediate, just do NOT put it in 4wd, or you'll have fun getting it out). It's really not that hard, and I think it will give you what you're looking for. Plus, those 3-speeds aren't known for their reliability.

Also, I'd get a multi-meter (includes volt-meter function). Less likely to damage electronics, not a big concern on older cars, but it's a good habit, as you can easily fry modules. Just do NOT use the resistance (ohm) function on a powered circuit, you will fry it. You can get a cheapo one at harbor freight for like $5-$10. Not the most accurate, but it will do for what you'll need.

Do your reverse lights work? I just killed my #10 fuse, and it took out my reverse lights, windows, and turn signals, but my hazards still work. Not sure why it blew yet, but I know that's what stopped them. Make sure the fuse didn't blow again. Also, here's a link to a wiring diagram. It's for my 87, but shouldn't be too much different for you 86 (assuming you've got an ea82).

My first thoughts as well. The seals were probably getting weak, when you slammed on it, might have been enough to throw them over the edge.

See what the voltage does when you rev it. I don't have a lot of experience, but my first though is voltage regulator. As far as alt. tests, take it to the parts store, the have the equipment to do a quick test. Not a lot of details from it, but it might be a start.

Well, don't know about the noise or "cutting, but check the height of the car. You may have a sagged spring. Wheel bearing would be my first guess too, but I know mine is sagged about 2" in the rear (though, not causing any issues like that). The noise could be whatever is shredding your tire. Look for what is causing that, as you may have more than one problem. I know my 87 4wd gl coupe is supposed to be 12.5" in the rear (height), I think the others were close. If it's less than 10.5", you definitely have an issue there. If I remember, I may be able to double check the "correct" ride height on monday. Anyways, good luck.

Ok, thx. I've done automatic transmissions, so I have an idea about the using a system to remember where everything goes, although, those pieces were bigger. While I do have a Haynes manual, I'll probably print it off Mitchell On-Demand, as I'll have access to it in a couple of weeks. Not sure when I'll actually get to it (kinda hard since it's my dd, emphasis on daily, usually about 400+ miles/week), but I'm glad to know it's not too bad.

@Suba_87_GL It's just a normal carb, not throttle-body-injection (I'm guessing that's what you mean by fuel injected carb). The car is not a turbo, but didn't those have mpfi, not a carb?

So, I think that my carb could probably use a rebuild, and autozone has the kits for about $30. But, I have a few questions: I've never rebuilt a carb, how difficult is it? How long should it take? Which kit would I need? This one or this one? Is there anything else I should know? Info on the car: 1987 Subaru GL Coupe, 1.8l EA82, originally 3eat 4wd, swapped in a 5-speed d/r, as far as I know, everything (minus a few interior lights) is stock. I'll check the mileage tomorrow, but it should be somewhere in the 130k's. Thanks.

I think you are under a misconception of what "octane" is and means. Octane is the fuel's ability to resist detonation or pre-ignition. It is often needed in turbo cars, because the pressures caused by more air in the combustion chamber can create more heat, raising the probability of auto-ignition before the piston reaches the point where the spark is fired. In Colorado, because of the altitude, the air is thinner, which reduces the needed resistance to detonation, hence, a lower octane rating at each level (reg, mid, and premium). Higher octane fuel doesn't necessarily mean it burns more efficiently, it is used in performance engines to control when it burns. In short, you gonna loose power because you have less air, meaning less oxygen. Changing your fuel grade won't change how much oxygen your engine has access to. To others who have a better understanding of fuels, feel free to correct me if I've made any errors.

Thanks, I'll give them a call. If it's actually $75, sounds like a no-brainer.

I know the parts store ones don't always come out well (mine lasted a week before it started making noise). I know I could just take it back till I find a good one, but I barely have the time to change it once. So, is there a place in Colorado, preferably near the springs where I can find good rebuilt axles for my 87 coupe (4wd, non-turbo)? Or, any recommendations on how to find a good one? Thanks.

One thought: The sensor mounted right in front if the compressor, check the wires. My dad's 88 had the compressor freezing up, and it turns out those wires had got cut somehow. That sensor is to prevent compressor lock-up at low engine speed (ie. idle). If it is not functioning, your compressor won't turn very well at low speeds, if at all. I'm sure the shop would've checked, but I know it can be easy to overlook some of the simplest problems. And yes, yours is factory.

I think shawn has them, but he's in colorado.

Probably not a bad idea. Would be good if you could figure out how much of that is parts though. That way, you know if they can get some of the stuff cheaper than you. I would assume the compressor is a big part of the cost. If you're replacing all of that, you should get a new receiver-dryer too. You might have had that included in "ect", though. Good luck on it. Is the shop supplying the r12?

28oz. For some reason, I was thinking 8oz cans. so you need 2 and 1/3 cans.

I think it is about 20oz on my 87 carb gl, but I'll have to double check. I know if you are doing cans, you need 2 and a partial.

Not sure about the knocking sound, but when I went to align my car on the rack, the only thing that is adjustable without modification (drilling) is front toe. It may be possible to shim it though. also, the rack will say that you can adjust more, but the point it shows would require said drilling to adjust it. Check all of your components, including your springs. I know my rear springs are sagged, and that will highly affect camber. As for the pictures, they need to be on the ground. Camber will increase (top of tire out) as you raise the car, and decrease is you compress the suspension. Definitely check the ball joints. When I did my tranny swap, I found that mine were shot. One of them was so bad, I couldn't use the pickle fork to get it out. It would just separate in the joint. Just feel them. The boot should be in good shape. They should move, but not too easily. You don't want them to be floppy. If you replace them, DON'T get the ones from autozone, unless you have some way of getting a boot with a solid metal ring onto the also solid ball joint. Napa's worked though.