Dj7291993

On Thursday, my dad's drivers side timing belt went out. It had been three years since it had been changed, so we didn't think anything of it. When we pulled it out on Saturday, it had stripped all of the teeth of of the belt. There was also a very slight amount of oil in the cover. We were going to change the front seal, but the parts store didn't have it in stock, so we figured we would do it next weekend. Put the new one on, and after figuring out that haynes skipped the step where you rotate the drivers cam gear 180*, we got it running. It did fine that night going to the store, going to work the next day, and getting to school on Monday. However, when I went to back out, the car started fine, but as I started to roll, the engine did. I tried to start it back up, and the starter did what it does when the belt goes out. Pulled off the cover, and sure enough, it was stripping it again. This time though, there were still some teeth on it. The teeth that remained looked like someone had taken a knife, and cut the teeth half way through, perpendicular to the teeth. I can pull the teeth back, which I know ain't right. So, what would cause the belt to get "cut"? Could it be a sharp spot on one of the gears, or one of my family's friends said it could be the cam sticking in the head? If needed, I might be able to take a picture tomorrow. Also, on the bottom of the belt (part with teeth sticking up), the cuts are from the center of the engine. Car info: 88 GL, EA82 mpfi, 5-speed fwd, sedan.

I've got 2 more questions. First, how do I bypass the neutral safety switch? Second, will I need to wire in the reverse lights, and if so, how? Thanks, Josh.

can you see exactly where it is? If not, you might look at the bypass (I think that's what it's called) hose that goes from the top of the water pump to a pipe that runs along the top of the block to the heater hose. I had this leaking in my 87 hatch, and it would dump a 1/3 of a gallon every time I'd shut it off. The hose is under the a/c compressor, but if you have a pressure tester and skinny arms, you can take off the fan guard and try to feel it. As far as a gasket, I don't know. However, I don't see why it would leak there, not really a need for coolant in the tb, unless it is a pre-heater, but still. But, if you see the leak coming from there, I can't say it is not possible. Good luck on getting that leak fixed.

I was looking into freeze 12, I'll probly try that. Also, probly should've noted this in the op, but I'm at high altitude. Not that it makes a big diff in a/c, but it does on the power turning it.

NorthWet: I don't have the certification yet, but I took the class. The certificate test is like $20, I just haven't done it yet. I wasn't so much asking what I would need as how well it works in this particular system. As per the reclaimer machine, yes it does work, but since they haven't made r12 since sometime in the '90s, it can be hard to find. I have access to all the equipment I need at school, it is finding the r12. Plus, as time goes on, quality goes down. Thanks for the advice though, I'll probably just go to r134a, since it is cheap. I would just open the window, but my massive coupe back window ensures that it stays toasty as long as it is sunny. I've had water bottle melt inside of duffel bags before, if that gives you reference.

I was asking for info from people who have. No offense, but if you don't know the specific answer to my question, please don't answer. I know what the "average" is, I want specifics.

you can get filtered and dried r12, it's just in cases of 12 can. I need like 2.5. And I know I need to retrofit (new receiver-dryer, port adapters, and oil), that is why I said it. I just want to know how effective it is once it is converted.

that hose, is it a 90* elbow, about 2-3" shortside, around 8" longside? If so, check the drivers side of your air cleaner. I don't think it's important, but that's where it goes. As far as dying, you have to let it warm up, and that doesn't mean start it, then grab your coffee and go. If it runs rough (like mine), wait till it smooths out. Just a downside to the carb. My exp is my 87 gl 3-door coupe, carbed ea82 with 3-speed auto 4wd (soon to be d/r 5-speed manual).

Ok, not important quite yet, but it will be here soon. As far as I know, my A/C system works fine, but it had a leaking valve core on the low side. So, I had to replace this, but now I'm out of freon. First, if I keep r12, where is a good place to get it (not by the case)? Second, regarding retrofit, how well does r134a work in these systems? I know some older ones don't work very effectively with r134a, but I don't know about the GL. Any help would be appreciated.

Ok, phase one completed... well, almost. I got the trany, flywheel, drive shaft, clutch, ect. Didn't have time for the pedals, have to do that tomorrow. Had the transmission unbolted completely by about 1:00pm, spent the next 3 hours trying to wiggle it off two studs. Came to tell us we had to leave as I was taking off the flywheel. For the console, instruments, transmission, driveshaft and the cross member came to about $209 with the cores. That brings me to a question though, should I just take the 3eat back for the $20 core, or should I try to sell it? The governor gear is $43 plus tax. What should I sell it for, or should I even bother? Also, thanks for all the help you guys have given so far, any tips on axles though? Edit: I did know it was heavy. Had to move a bunch (probly 20-30) from a shed last year at school so they could build a new shed.

well, I'll have to try that. Thanks btw. Gonna go pull it tomorrow. Wish me luck.

What is it called? I called the dealer, and he couldn't find a governor valve. Any ideas?

It's apple cored. Guess the temp fix won't work.

No, it's for the swap. I didn't think it was rtv, but it looks like it. Is about $14 each sound right (that's what Heuberger told me)?

Quick Question. Since I'll have to take off the exhaust, what type of sealer/gasket should I use? Without taking it off, it looks like rtv.

Well, I already posted a question, joined about a year ago, but never introduced myself, so here it is. I'm from Colorado, USA. I'm currently going to school for automotive service. I have a 1987 Subaru GL 3-door, EA82 carb, currently with a 3-EAT, soon to have a d/r 5-speed. She runs great (once she warms up), just need to fix the transmission. I'm 17, and I can't think of much else right now. Anything else you wanna know, just ask. ~Josh

well, being as the guys that owned my car before me was the hulk, I had the same problem with my oil plug. I had to use some rope and pulley setup. Kinda twisted the head, but I got it off. You could try a 3/4" bar or impact. Also, make sure it's a six-point.

yes. (sorry if you were talking to the other guy).

how?

really, cuz my dad's car wouldn't drive right without it. Okay, thanks. Also, I don't need the diff, right?

ok, sounds like the d/r might be simpler. Is there any special tools I need? Also, what do I do with the hill holder? should I just disconnect the lines (i know I need to to pull the fork back, my dad has an 88 fwd 5-speed, fork prong broke, that cable caused a LOT of hassle, till we tied it up)? I don't really feel like trying to hook up the brake thing (unless it is extremely simple. Thanks for the help!

won't that need a different console?

EDIT: I did search this forum, as well as google for several hours. Ok, so I have an 1987 subaru gl 3-door coupe with a 1.8l carb EA82 engine, and a 3-speed automatic push-button (single-range) 4wd. Around 120k miles. She's loud, but she runs pretty well (once she warms up). The problem, the transmission just died. I was driving to school down the highway at between 50-55mph. I came up to where the road widens and the speed limit goes up to 65mph. When I pushed down the gas to accelerate, it started slipping for about 1-2 seconds, then it was like it went into neutral. I pulled over and put it in 4wd to make sure that it wasn't the axle. it wasn't. When it was in drive, from a stop, it would not shift out of first. When I had it in second, then put it into drive, it was just like neutral. I had to (reluctantly) drive home in 2nd. The local junkyard's price on transmissions is only $100 plus a $20 core, auto or manual. Because I don't want to mess with an auto having the same issue as mine, I was thinking about converting to a manual. I looked around on Saturday, and they had two cars with a push-button 4wd (the rest were dual-range or fwd). The first one was a 1993 Loyale wagon with an EA82 FI, a 5-speed manual. This one had about 180k miles on it, looked like they hauled hay and feed in the back. This is the one I'm leaning towards. The second is a 1987 (same year as mine) GL wagon with an EA82 carb, and a 3-speed auto. This one had 150K miles on it. This one had a hitch on it, which made me a little bit nervous. I don't know what the rep on these autos are, so I don't really want to mess with it. So, I want to use the manual out of the 93, but since this is my only car, I need it to work. I found a step-by-step for an EA81, but I know that the EA82 is a little bit different. So far, my searching has confused me. I have seen some people say I'll need the diff off of it (something about different gear ratios). Someone was saying the speedometer cable is a different length. I also would like what to do with the neutral safety switch. I know I'll need the pedals, flywheel, and shifter. I also know I'll probably want a new clutch, which raises another question. The inside diameter of the clutch is different between the coupe and the wagon/sedan. I'm assuming that this wouldn't be an issue as long as I get the wagon clutch, but I want to be sure. I know there has got to be someone around here that has done this, and I would really appreciate any and all help available. What I need to know is: -Will the 93 fit -was the coupe any different from the others? -What I need -Parts list -tools list -what to do (for the conversion) -how much of a pain it will be Any other info I need would be great too. The VIN is JF2AG53B6HF809071

I was wondering if anyone knows how difficult and expensive it would be to put cruise control on my 87 subaru gl. It has the 1.8, carbureted. it is a 3-speed auto. Thanks for the help, Josh.