Dj7291993

In that case, there is a year of honda accord front springs that fit. Here is the link for the writeup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ If you do those, you may want to find them used. I think I ended up having to cut 1.5 to 2 coils when I used new ones on my 87 GL Coupe, and it still rides a LOT stiffer. But, they are more readily available.

I think King Springs makes some, both in lifted and stock height. I've heard they are a stiffer spring, but they might be your best option.

Check for leaks. A common place is the o-ring where the hose from the reservoir mounts to the pump. The most common reason for noise is air. Sometimes that can be from a leak in the pump, but it's not the only place it can leak. If you have a stethoscope that you can pull the end off, you can put the stethoscope hose near that where the piece that the hose mounts to un the pump, see if the noise is louder there than just next to the pump.

Did you replace the rotor on the one that had a sticking caliper? If it was sticking bad, it likely has a lot of runout.

BRZ, FRS, and GT86 are all the same car, just with different badges and slight tweaks. The car was a joint project between toyota and subaru. In the us, toyota sold theirs under the scion badge.

If I remember right, it's a bearing in the torque converter. The one I've diagnosed, we sent to the dealer, cause it was under warranty. Think ot was a tsb, not a recall though.

Installing the belt is the easiest, unless you've got a video scope that you can look at the valves with through the spark plug holes. Just start it up before you put all the covers back on.

Leaking intake manifold gaskets don't always set codes, as they can seal up before the O2 sensors warm up enough to pick up the lean condition. The run horrible when cold, but once they warm up, they tend to expand enough to hide the problems. Not something I've seen very much on Subarus, but GM, Chrysler, and Ford have problems with them all the time. If the leak is bad enough, you might be able to spray around it with brake clean or something similar and listen for a change in the idle, but the best way I've found to catch them is with a scope or a fast enough scanner to watch the O2 sensors to see if they respond to the spray.

My guess is no. Napa lists the rotor bolt circle diameter as 100mm for the rear and 90mm for the front. But I don't have rear discs, so I'm not sure.

After you put on the first timing belt, did you rotate the crankshaft 1 full turn before installing the second belt? Haynes forgot to mention that step in their manual. With both belts on, one of the camshaft marks should face up, the other should be down.

Mine is an 87 GL Coupe, EA82. It was a push-button 4wd with the 3eat when I got it, but I swapped it to a dual-range 5-speed.

In my 87, as long as you keep it above 1/3 of a tank, it's fine. But, as it gets lower, it will suck air and sputter when stopping or turning. The lower the fuel, the worse it gets. But, mine was carburated, so I suspect the fuel injected models had better baffles in the tank.

Check where the master cylinder mounts to the booster. Sometimes the MC can leak into the booster. You rarely see a significant leak there, but sometimes there will be a trace or semi-dissolved paint under it where brake fluid has run down. Less likely than the others, but if you can't find it, look there. You can also loosen the mounting nuts and check for fluid on the back of it.

Pretty much any current 75w90 you find at the part store will meet API GL-5, unless it is really old. Synthetic won't hurt anything, though it's not needed. Valvololine works and is stocked by pretty much everyone. As to the torque, service info says 32.5 ft/lbs for aluminum gasket, 51.6 for copper gasket. You could probably get away with just the gasket, but the plug won't hurt. You'll want a T70 bit to take it off, though.

Look around here for info on EJ swaps. There is nore involved, but the EJ18, EJ20, EJ22, and even the EJ25 if you can find one without headgasket issues are much more powerful, reliable, and more fuel efficient. Night and day difference. I think the EA81 is a little more involved than the EA82, but when I did the swap in my 87 GL coupe, it made it a whole different car. There is plenty of info around this forum if you do some looking.

Note: when I refer to right or left, it is as if you were sitting in the driver seat looking forward (in US cars, left is driver's side). Tooth count between right upper cam gear mark and crank gear mark should be 54.5. Between left upper and crank should be 51. Distance between the marks on the upper and lower cam gear for both sides should be 28. At least according to Mitchell. If your belt is marked, it may be easier to just take it off and reinstall, though it wouldn't hurt to make sure you got the direction correct. Also, make sure it is the double marks facing each other on the cams, with the single ones facing the marks on the cover. Also, listen for any air leaks. They tend to be a bigger issue at idle. Not vacuum leaks, but leaks between the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the throttle body.

I did double check the hydraulic circuit diagrams for my 2000 Foz, just to be sure I was remembering correctly, but yes, it is a normal hydraulically applied wet clutch, just like the other ones in the automatic. In the earlier ones at least, pressure is constantly sent to the apply piston, causing the clutch to lock the rear driveshaft to the output shaft of the trans. The Duty C acts as a bleed off valve, normally duty cycled by the PCM, or with the FWD fuse installed, constantly powered. As to the cooling, in theory, the other clutches in the tranny are doing the same thing when flat-towing (like with a tow rope) a car in neutral. However, as I said, the best solution is the one mentioned above, of disconnecting the driveshaft (from the diff side). This is true even for fwd and rear wheel drive cars, as over long distances, you increase the chance of something going wrong with having more moving components. Especially if said components are operating outside of their intended conditions. I.e. a manual transmission being towed on a dolly has the fluid sitting in a non normal way for an extended time. Short distances, the chances of toasting something are less, but long distances, if you can take away the possibility of damaging something, it's typically best to do so.

Theoretically, if the transmission's pump isn't running, there is no fluid pressure to apply the clutch for the rear wheels. IF it's an automatic. Manuals don't have the fuse, and it's a mechanical awd. Either way though, disconnecting the rear shaft will ensure it doesn't hurt the system. As long as it's got fluid in the rear diff.

I'd check and make sure the alt is charging. Make sure the connections are tight. As the battery voltage drops, you tend to start dropping modules. The engine controller usually will run on the lowest voltage of all the computers, but the coil output will drop, which can cause the hiccup.

Make sure you've let the thing sit long enough for the computers to shut down. 30 mins should be long enough. Your back up lights shouldn't be drawing anything key off, but if that doesn't drop you down below 0.050A, then it's not your main issue. I'd agree with the alternator, try pulling the connector and the charge wire.

In my experience as a technician, those aren't usually worth it. They tend to have a lot of ways of getting out of paying for things. Then even the things they do pay for, they don't cover as much as you'd think. Like on a Mini Cooper we had brought into our shop that ended up needing an engine. They payed for the engine after a couple of weeks of red tape, but they didn't pay for any fluids (oil, coolant), or anything they considered a maint. item, like spark plugs, water pump, ect. I many times when we deal with them, they don't cover diagnosis, and they often find a way out all together. The higher tear ones should be better, but the cost starts to seem less worth it. To give you some idea, part of the reason the Mini took long was because the warranty company had to submit it to their insurance.

My dad's had an oil pump strip 3 belts in a row. First one wasn't too suspicious, since it had been over 60k miles. The second one didn't make it 100 miles. Figured we just didn't get all the bits of the old belt out. I was driving it when the third one went, was losing oil pressure right before it went. Had to keep it above 3k to get the gauge off 0. That one didn't even make it 20 miles. Ours stripped, but it might be worth checking.

Tech should have caught it, but check the timing belts. There's two, so you can loose just one side of the engine. If the left (driver) side goes, you also loose the oil pump and distributor. It may sound like it's trying to start when in reality, one side isn't getting compression because the camshaft isn't turning, alowing it to turn faster when those cylinders should be on compression. It's not too hard to pull the timing covers on each end to look at it. To pull the center, you'll have to remove the crank pulley, but you don't need to to inspect it.

I'd make sure the fans are plugged in. Would have been disconnected for the radiator, and they're easy enough to check.

I always do them out of the car, but you could always just make a mark on the socket with a paint pen, or if your socket has the hole in it, use that as a guide.