Dj7291993

Penetrating oil, a hammer, and a puller. Heat if you have it. Soak the thing real good, the put the puller on it tight, but not so tight it'll break anything, then hit the shaft of the puller a couple times. Tighten the puller a little more, hit again, repeat. Careful not to damage the puller. Sometimes the combination of the constant pressure from the puller and the shock from them hammer works better than individually. If it's too bad, you might want to see if you can locate a used knuckle and axle. Depends on how much effort you want to put in.

Depends on your tools. There aren't really any specual tools needed to work on them, basic metric stuff, short of the larger stuff mentioned. I'd say less than other aisian cars though. You'll need a couple of special tools to do head gaskets on some (14mm 12pt socket and breaker bar, a torx plus and a allen, though I can't remember the size), and the drain plug on the newer front diffs is a huge torx (wanna say t40, but don't quote me 9n that). As for cost, it's hard to say. If you go all Snap-On, it's going to be a lot more than craftsman or pawn shop. Do you want just bare basics? You ciuld get away with a 3/8" socket and ratchet set, some screw drivers, a set of pliers, a few wrenches, and a hammer for most of it. I would guess you already have that stuff though. If you want to make you like easier, you'd want 1/4 and 1/2 too, impacts, air ratchets, hammers, punches, breaker bars, extensions, wobbles and universals, pry bars, breaker bars, lights, magnets, trays, drill, pullers, torch for stuff that's really stuck, extractors for when things break, scanner that can do vehicle specifif on Subaru, scope, meter, test light, ect. The only stuff I'd say is unique for subaru outside of your normal stuff it a handful of sockets. A price is going to be hard to give though

Get the codes checked. Preferably engine and abs codes. Guessing at what it could be when it will talk to you is a waste of time.

Keep in mind that the stock air intake pulls from the fender, which is going to much colder than one of the cones in the engine bay, no matter how many baffles you put around it.

Iirc, the crank doesn't need to come off, but the cam gears would. Should be two pieces, one on each side. If it's just cracked, I wouldn't worry to much about it until it comes time to do the timing belt, unless it is rubbing on something. 'Course, if it bothers you, then by all means. If you're going that far though, unless it's just had them, it would make sense to do timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, cam seals and crank seal. Especially if your belt's marks have worn off.

You can shift it out of overdrive, but a basic cruise has no way to slow the vehicle.

So, this is going to be super helpful, but the wire to the park lights is also red/black. That is the wire coming from the park light switch on top of the column. If you have a meter or test light though, shouldn't be hard to figure out which one. Just turn that switch on with the key off, and see which one has power.

So, headlights are ground switched, park lights are power switched. Headlight relay is on power side, headlight switch is on ground. If you decide to look into, I hope it helps.

I think the lights on these are ground switched, not power. That's probably your issue. When the lights are on, is there power on that wire? I'll need to go check my wiring diagrams to be sure though.

Also, you could try disconnecting the wire from the starter to isolate that from the system.

Did it come with a wiring diagram? I don't see why it would need to power accessories. Don't need the radio going while you're inside having breakfast. If it is blowing immediately, you probably have a short to grohnd happening somewhere. I doubt there's much more than 30 amps running through that system at any given time. Stupid question, but you didn't hook a wire to the battery terminal of the starter, right? Also, your alt issue isn't uncommon. You could try a new alt, but most alternators don't put out well at idle. Some companies make alternators that have high idle output (like DC Power), but they wouldn't have one for an ea82.

Did you blow any fuses? I'm not sure if the radio would share a power with those or not, but it's something fairly quick to check.

When you turn the key on, the PCM will run the fuel pump for a few seconds (exactly how long varies by car. Subies seem to be shorter than most). If fuel pressure is dropping down immediately after, you have a leak somewhere. If you pinch off the line between the tester and the engine and it holds, you leak is over there. If it still drops off, your fuel pump is draining back, which is a problem. Most cars will have an initial drop when it kicks off of a couple psi, then they should hold. Can't remember what most specs are, but I want to say no more than a couple psi over a few minutes. If it's falling like a rock, somethings leaking off pressure, probably the pump if it's able to build it in the first place. Have you checked fuel pressure while cranking it?

Well, it is possible to get a bad tire. Can you have your tire shop check for out of round on the tires?

I really think you ought to start with the MAF. If the computer doesn't know how much air is coming into the engine, or is getting an incorrect value, it won't know how much fuel to add. Here is the info from Mitchel on Code 49: Code 49 indicates use of an improper airflow sensor. Symptoms include the following: Rough or erratic idle. Failure of engine to start. If a code 49 is displayed, check specifications of airflow sensor and ECU. Replace the airflow sensor or ECU with the correct type as follows: Automatic Transmission - Hot film type airflow sensor (JECS). Manual Transmission - Hot wire type airflow sensor (Hitachi).

22 is a knock sensor open/short, 23 is an airflow sensor open/short. Are they plugged in? Is the air boot hooked up with no leaks between the filter housing and the throttle body? I think 49 was airflow sensor incorrect values.

I don't think they were an option for that generation of Forester, so you'd have to see if you can fit seats from a new one. I'm not sure if the later ones will bolt up or not.

Like Fairtax said, more info. There are a lot of horrible noises a car can make. Is the noise during cranking, or once it fires off? Aside from not starting, does it crank normally (slow, fast, uneven)? Does the car run okay once it starts? A stethoscope can help you figure out where the noise is coming from.

You might want to find why it is torn. The boot is just a dust boot, so normally, unless heat has got to them, they don't just tear. However, if the rack atarts leaking fluid into the boots, it will start to break down the rubber, making it more prone to failure. If the boot broke because the rack is leaking, then yes, the rack should be replaced (unless you fancy resealing it). That being said, racks don't typically leak very quickly, and the boots are usually fairly cheap, so as long as you can get the tie rod end off, you could just slap a boot on it and let the rack go. Just know that it won't fix the leak, it'll just protect the rack from foreign material. If you do it yourselfñ nake sure you get the clamp for the inner part of the boot. These are usually crimp clamps, so you can't really re-use them. Or, a big zip tie can work too.

Yeah, out of the car is much better. Pulling this engine takes no time at all, and makes the rest so much easier.

Unplug and pull out the pre-cat O2 sensor, see if it makes a difference. Or, if your flange is before the cat, you can do it there too. Make sure to unplug both o2 sensors when doing this test. It will help see if you have a plugged exhaust.

If the oil filter is on top, it's a chain (FB). Lso, if you look at them, the belts have plastic timing covers, chains are metal. If you are looking at new, it'll be a chain.

With the wheel on, if you grab the top and bottom to rock it, is there any play? Unless they are very loose, they are hard to check when they're apart.

I believe that is the oil pressure switch.

Most of the time, I can do it with an impact universal joint on a short socket. I like the impact universals better, because they don't bind up nearly as bad. Well... that and I can use my impact.... They are a bit bigger though. You can also get a socket with a built in universal if the other is too big. Something like this. My two are Snap-on and Mac, so the Craftsman might be bigger, not sure. Though, if it's causing that much trouble, I'd just pop the axle out. I've found that sometimes it quicker and easier just to remove the thing in your way than to try to work around it. The problems caused by the frustration just aren't worth it some times.