Dj7291993

Temping is probably the easiest was to check. There should be discoloration on the one that get's hot. Most likely the side it pulls to. I wouldn't actually touch it, as if it is sticking, it could easily be a few hundred degrees. But, you should have an idea by putting you're hand close to it. Probably can feel a difference in the wheel as well.

Heads are bolts, not studs. You'll get mixed opinions on whether they need changed or not. If they go externally, where these ones tend to, you can see them pretty easily from the bottom. CV axle boots are pretty common. Electronics are pretty strait forward, sometimes different, but simple. Also, don't use cheap brake rotors, they warp easily on these. NAPA stuff works well, but cheap stuff doesn't tend to last long.

Some of the turbo models do have to caps, but only one is pressure rated, the other just seals flat. Iirc, it's to help with bleeding. That being covered, you don't need an all aluminum radiator, the platic ones work fine as long as you don't steam them (overheat with low coolant). The aluminum ones leak too, and most can't be repaired any more than the normal ones. The only reason to go to them is to cool better, which you shouldn't be having a problem with.

Is there spark or injector pulse? If the ECU doesn't see that the engine is turning over, it won't fire the fuel pump. Also, did you use the fuel pump relay off the ej harness, or are you still using the stock one?

Should be, but you might have to get the whole pad. I know one some cars, they have to be calibrated, but I'm not sure on these. Won't hurt to call the dealer's parts department.

Washing it off will make it much easier to tell where it is coming from. Also, a picture is worth a thousand words. See if you can get a shot or two of the leak and post it up. What ever is leking, it is probably dripping onto the exhaust, causing your smoke.

Did the belt jump after you tried to start it. Also, you used the nothes, not the arrows, right? Pics would probably help. As for the bolt, you could lay breaker bar on the frame rail, and bump the starter, but we should make sure it's all lined up first.

The gates kit won't come with cam and crank seals, which are the brown, circular seals on the evergreen kit. The gates also doesn't show the water pumpt and thermostat gasket, but I'm sure it has them. The delco kit has the same stuff as the gates kit. As for the brands, of those three, I've only used gates. Although, that evergreen looks familiar. I believe aisin is the oem manufacturer. If you get one without the cam and crank seals, I'd recommend getting some.

Gloyale is right. All the pump does is supply pressure. EJ and EA are both just hydraulic pumps. All the valving is inside the rack, so make sure the lines are feeding it correctly. As you stated, the pump and rack were fine before, right? So, the most likely thing is the one that has changed: the lines. If the lines turn out to be okay, or the problem is still there after you fix it, then all that is left is the rack. If the wheel takes off as you say, then the pump is working fine. If it wasn't, you'd have no or weak power steering.

Should still be able to pull OBDII codes. Parts stores here will pull them for free, should be able to have them check the codes for you. Just don't let them sell you anything yet. They may not give you definitions, but if you can get the numbers, that would be a good place to start.

What are you looking to know? You can make a lot of stuff fit, depending on how determined you are. The search feature will help if you want specifics. Look around the Repair Manual section, check out some of the build threads people have. Should get some ideas flowing. If you can imagine it, chances are, someone around here has at least thought about it, if not tried it. If not, they give some great input, and I look forward to the build thread. Also, welcome!

I know, that was in reply to wagonist and subasaurus. This is not how they work on a Subaru, and I am well aware of that. However, I will edit my other post to make that more clear.

You're not going to find much cheaper than that. Wholesale from NAPA is more than that. As for the bolts, it's up to you. If you are trying to save money, just check them to be sure they are not stretched. At the shop, we always replace them, but that's because the bolt price vs the labor to have to do it over if they fail, makes more sense to just do them. If you are doing it yourself, then you can decide. You'll probably be fine as long as they look okay, but if it were my car, I'd just replace them.

Right, my bad.

I knew someone could simplify it. That would work great. This will turn the front lights into more of a daytime running light though, as you'll need them wired to "hot in run". Well, or you could just be like a lot of people around here, and never use them. Edit: Below is Not Subaru Related This is to answer the question as to how the vehicles (old American trucks, for example) used a sing filament for turn and brake. (end Edit) As for the turn signal and brake lamp using the same bulb, they run through the turn signal switch. I made this simple sketch on my phone, so excuse the quality. I also didn't include the hazard in here, as it can vary. Also, on newer cars, it just goes to a computer (typically BCM), and that decides what the lights do.

Don't have one I can send you, but there is a fuse 5 in the main fuse box, and fuse 20 in the fuse and relay box. One is before the relay, one is after. Also, if the dealer told you they couldn't figure it out 'cause it's old, you need to find a different shop. How do they know it's a short? Have they narrowed it down to in the harness, because the rest shouldn't be too hard.

You'll want the relay wired in parallel with the rear turn signal. You could just take the wire you have now, and run it into the relay. So, basically: 85 - Turn signal power wire (the one that pulses power when the turn signal is on) 86 - Ground 30 - Wire to light 87a - Switched power. However, the problem here is, your front signal won't work if the switch isn't on. You could also use two relays per side, use a second one between this one and the wire to the light. 85 - Power from park light circuit (something that gets power off the "virgin switch") 86 - Ground 30 - Wire to light 87 - Wire from "30" of first relay 87a - Turn signal power wire (same as "85" for first relay) That would be four relays though, seems a bit much. Someone else might have a better way to do it. As skishop69 said, it'll need to be a flasher that won't freak out for varying resistances.

That could be. In that case, it would be similar to trying to drive with the parking brake on. Possible, but a lot of power would be wasted trying to overcome the added resistance. If that is the case, then I would highly recommend putting the fuse in (if you haven't already), as if that clutch keeps trying to engage, but can't, you are going to rip up that clutch, cook your fluid, and cause a lot of unnecessary heat in the transmission. Can you see anything sticking out of the back, or is it all covered?

As Dave said, as long as the hole is plugged, you should be ok. We have several people at our shop who have the fuse in all summer, with no problems. All that solenoid does is bleed off pressure to the clutch disk for the rear driveshaft. And, when the fuse is in, the trans will stop trying to send power back there, and hold that open all the time. IT shouldn't really need a break, in fact, it's probably better having the fuse in then not if the driveshaft is out. I wouldn't cut the wire, as the trans light will flash at you all the time, so you won't know when there is another problem. Plus, there really isn't a need to have the rear locked in all the time.

About 5 hours labor (don't know what rates are where you're at, here they're around $100/hr). Plus parts. The 97 Legacy I just did came to about $1100 for water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idlers, cam seals, crank seal, labor and coolant. Do NOT skip the pullies (idlers and tensioner). I've never seen the belts on an EJ engine break, but I've seen those bearings give out. That's why the 97 was in our shop.

I don't think they'd handle it for long. That's a pretty big step up. 140 is over 2 1/2 times as much power as the stock. Even if the housings can take it, I doubt the wiring and socket would like it.

On the IPM, Snap-on's half inch is slower than most other guns, but it'll still rip off axle nuts. The slower is actually nice, since it's a bit quieter, and doesn't send sockets and nuts flying. Not sure if the new lithium one is faster. Anyway, on point, the speed doesn't necessarily mean it will be any better at taking things off. It may just make it good at getting your ears to ring. Also, not sure if they sell it in stores, but I'm fairly sure Dewalt makes MAC Tools cordless impacts.

"The bulb filaments on these share a common power, so voltage across the filaments will drop when both are burning. This will also increase the current through the already undersized wiring that these use, which will cause the terminals in the connectors to burn, and probably burn the wiring as well." Not true. They are in parallel, so the voltage drop wouldn't be an issue. The current would, though. It would probably burn up the socket, bulb, and possibly wires. One other thing to consider, is I think your car has plastic headlight lenses. The extra heat could burn or melt the lens. In addition to those, as stated, it could be illegal in your area. If you don't care about legality, you could try some brighter bulbs, but they will create the heat issue as well. Are your lenses forges up? If so, you could try replacing them with some fresh, clear ones, see if that makes a difference.

You may want to check your ball joints as well. Not sure how hot it got, but I imaging the knuckle was probably fairly warm as well, which would transfer into ball joints.

Yeah, Subi stamps their blocks on the top. Not hard to find. As for the spark, you shouldn't need a diagram to start. Do you have a test light? Put it across the ignition coil terminals to see if you are getting a pulse while cranking. If so, your issue is on the secondary side of the ignition (high voltage: spark plug wires, coil wire, cap, rotor, and plugs), or the coil itself. If not, figure out which side is missing. Should be constant power with key on, pulse ground with the disty turning, if I recall correctly. Then just trace the wire. Edit: Here is a site with a pic of EA81 and EA82 long block. http://ramengines.com/page5.php