Dj7291993

If you got the brakes hot enough to destroy the brake lines and catch fire, it's probably not a bad idea. The bearing may be ok, but I doubt the seals liked the heat.

Might want to talk to Monstaru. He's putting an EJ in a 4-Runner. Thread is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134618-smiley/

I've got the Ni-cad Snap-on 1/2" and just got the new Lithium 3/8" from them. The 3/8" has 230ft/lbs of torque. I still use the 1/2" on a lot of the bigger stuff, but I do lug nuts with the 3/8" no problem, even on the 3500 pickups. Nice thing about the 1/2" is it is much quieter than air tools. It is heavy though, and a bit big in some spots, which is why I got the 3/8". I haven't really had anything in the shop that my 1/2" couldn't take off that the air ones could. IT just takes a bit longer on some of them. Worth not having to deal with the air hose in my book. Only thing it doesn't take off commonly is Honda and VW crank bolts, but then again, sometimes even the starter and a 3' bar struggle with those. As for the batteries, all the Snap-on ones come with two, and they charge faster than I go though them. I suppose if you were a tire guy, you might start to push it, but even then, I think it could keep up. Also, the 3/8" has a really bright light on it, which makes it nice for things like bell-housing bolts on a subi. TL;DR I only use my Snap-on Cordless impacts. If they won't do it, I use my 3' breaker bar. By then, it usually moves or breaks.

What are you cutting it with? You'll want to use something think, like a hacksaw. A grinder would end up with a lot of lost material. Theoretically, if you could split it with no loss, it should work. I would try to get the cuts in the valleys.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115992-87-gl-transmission-swapconversion-ea82/?p=977899 This is a post with a picture of what mine looked like when it quit. The gear on the end of it should be square. If it looks like the one in the picture, that's your problem (or at least on of them).

The 3EAT likes to strip out the governor gear. Will it move in 1 or 2? If memory serves, the governor is on the top of the transmission. If you search around here, you should be able to find something.

So, I recently bought an 00 Forester from a customer who ran it out of oil. I got a used engine from a junkyard from an 02 forester. I noticed the tone ring on the cam gear had more teeth on the 02, and the cam gears were metal, as opposed to plastic on the 00. My plan was to just switch the gears when I'm putting the new t-belt on, as I'm fairly confident that's all I'll need. However, I'm even more confident someone here has done it, so I'd just like some reassurance. I'm also going to be using the intake from the 00, since the one from the junkyark didn't have a throttle body. Plus, it's easier to get the torque converter bolts in and out with it off. Thanks in advance.

If you're concerned about the head gaskets, have a shop look at it before you have them do the belts. You're probably fine, but if you do end up doing them, may as well do the t-belt at the same time, since it has to come off anyway. Edit: Not sure what the shop rates in your area are, but at my shop, it's around $800 for labor and the timing belt, all idlers, tensioner, water pump, crank seal, and both cams. That's what I pulled up on my 2000 forester, yours would be close. Our shop rate is $97/hour. Hope that gives you an idea.

Just a thought off the top of my head, but you may have a leaking injector. It would cause the engine to flood when it aits for a long time. When you open up the throttle, and brings the revs up, you'd be clearing out the extra fuel. Usually, when the car is running, they don't leak bad enough to cause noticeable performance issues.

Any news?

For some reason, the first time I posted, I forgot you had a code. My apologies. Does it still have the CKP code? Also, does the tachometer move while cranking? If it still has the CKP code, I'd look there first. The "correct" way to check one is with an oscilloscope. Since I'm guessing you don't have one, there is another way to check them (note, this only works on 2-wire sensors, which fortunately, yours is). You can pull the sensor out, and see if it is magnetic. It's not 100%, but it's a pretty good indication. If it's not, the go ahead and replace it. Not sure why Subaru wouldn't be able to find it, but NAPA's part number is CSS973, it's about $30. They have it in stock here, guessing they should be able to get it where you're at. If that's ok, check the cam sensor as well. I've seen some cars where the CMP can cause a ckp code. Less likely, but still possible. NAPA CMP PN: CSS826. Edit: Looks like the NAPA in Oxford has none in stock, but they can order them. In Colorado, if it comes from our local DC, it is usually in no later than next day. Nice thing about NAPA, since they do a lot of commercial, they're usually pretty quick about getting things in.

Not trying to be rude, but you are testing this with the key on, correct? The back-up lamps will only receive power with the ignition on. I ask because I've spent an hour plus trying to diagnose a rear defogger, before I realized there way a switch that shut it off when the hatch was open. If that's good, and you don't have power at the switch, then start going backwards. If the fuse okay? Can you trace the wires at all? If you find that it is an open between the fuse and the connector, it may be easiest to find a place to splice into the wire, and run a new one.

Check the belt first. Then you can check fuel. Just because you can hear the fuel pump, doesn't mean it's working. It's a good start, though. Take the fuel line off from the rail (the one that comes from the filter), put it in an empty soda can (or some other container that won't melt from gas), and have someone turn the key to on (don't crank it). See if you get any fuel coming out. If it seems to be coming out pretty good, with decent pressure, it should be enough to start. You'll also want to check for spark. Take one of the spark plug wires off, put a screwdriver in it (gently, don't damage it), and lay it so the metal shaft lays about 1/4" of of the engine (or anything metal attached to it), then have someone crank the engine. Do you see a spark? all of these check okay, then come back and let us know.

What I usually do at the shop is undue the motor mounts nuts, undue the exhaust manifold nuts (unless they seem like they're going to cause me problems), drop the car back down. Then undue the dogbone/pitch-stopper batween the trans and firewall. Then, put a jack with a block of wood under the edge of the oil pan. (as long as you are careful, you won't damage the pan if you use wood, and lift at its strongest points, which are the edges) Pick it up high enough to get the studs out of the holes, then push the engine over to one side (left while I'm working on the right, and reversed for the other side). Then when you're done, set it back in the holes, and re-attach everything. Fairtax's way is good, and possibly a little safer, but I'm not sure how easily you can get to the block, since I think you have the wrap-around style exhaust manifold. Granted, when I do it, I have a lift and a 1/2" drive Snap-On cordless impact, so this process takes me less than five minutes, and lets me use my cordless ratchet on the valve cover (or as Subi calls it, rocker cover) bolts.Just watch the pan as you're jacking up on it. The car will lift a little as you take some load off the suspension, but you don't want ti lift the car by the engine.

To the OP, if you've got the heater blowing hot now, you probably have it burped pretty well. Is the problem still there? If not, I'd say your good. As for the T-stat, unless you're having problems wait and do it with the timing belt and water pump @ 105k. You will drain pretty much all of the coolant out when you change it, and it's at the bottom of the water pump anyway. I would HIGHLY recommend draining the radiator first when you do it, that way you only have the block pouring out all over you. Also, when getting a t-stat, make sure it has the little bleeder port on it. Here is a pic of one (not a subi stat, just the bleeder part).

My boss does it in his legacy every summer, no issues. We've got a few customers at the shop that do it too. Basically, all it does is keep the clutch from engaging the rear drive shaft.

Too add to what he said, air leaks, especially vacuum tend to be worse cold. Also, the will effect the engine more before the O2S warm up, as the ecu has to guess what it needs. Once the O2S warms up, it can see it's running lean, and adjust for it. Spark plug wires are possible, but it is usually worse under a load. Timing belt is probably not your issue, but 1 Lucky Texan is right, I've seen a few pulleys "explode" on these. Wouldn't be a bad idea to check them, but I don't think that's your issue.

If those two things sticking up are spade terminals, I'd guess that is is the pickup, but I'm not sure. It looks different than NAPA's listing for a pickup. Sorry, I'm not very familiar with the stuff before gen 3. What do you mean by not doing anything? Also, you you check for pulse at the coil? If you don't have a test light, you can use a bulb (like an 1156) and some wire.

Manners will get you far. If you want help, best not to piss off the people most able to help you. There is a lot of knowledge available on this forum. Lots of of people who have built everything from simple spacers to full custom suspension and chassis. But none of them are going to want to help you with the attitude you've come in with. You came here asking questions, but your responses to criticisms imply that you want to do it your way and wish for no outside help or advice. If you want to prove yourself, them by all means, go try it. But if you'll humble yourself enough to take the advice on here, you'll save yourself a lot of pain, frustration, and money. The way you act and treat others is the way you will be treated. If you come with organized, easy to read, mature questions, those are the type of responses you will get. But when you come in here acting a like a small child, getting angry at anyone who points it out, that's how you will get treated; like a small child. But, that's just my advice.

If you put a test light across the positive and negative terminals of the coil, you should get a pulse. The distributor should supply a pulsed ground, either directly (via points), or through an ignition module. If you have a signal with the test light, pop the coil wire of the disty, and check for spark on it. If you don't have it there, but the coil is getting a signal, then it is either the coil or the wire. You can use an ohmmeter to check the wire and the coil. Edit: Basically, you want to isolate whether the problem is in the primary (battery voltage) side,or the secondary (high voltage) side.

Did you check the u-joints? I've only seen them go bad on a subaru once, but they were completely destroyed. Made a terrible clunking noise. Thought it was the transmission hitting the tunnel at first, but it turned out to be u-joints. They're easy to check. As for the hydraulics, I don't know of any hydraulic mounts on a subaru. The engine mounts are pretty basic, solid blocks of rubber with two pieces of steel, a stud, and an alignment dowel. Not sure what the fluid could be though. By the way, what is the car?

Not sure about the whine, but while you're under the car, check the rear drive shaft u-joints.

Whatever you do, don't throw a cat at it. Get the info these guys are telling you to first. Cats don't go away at higher rpm. The more air trying to flow through the exhaust, the worse they get. If you just can't get it out of your head, there is an easy way to check it. But get the codes first!

They'll come out, it's just a matter of how many pieces they come out in. Drilling through the plastic isn't so bad, magnet is a bit more annoying.

Ok, thanks for the input. I figured it would only work if I could use the 2.5 intake, which I knew probably wouldn't work. But it never hearts to check.