Dj7291993

So, one of our customers at the shop I work at is looking to sell their 2000 Forester. It's a pretty good price, but the engine is seized. I'm probably gonna get it, but I'm trying to get a handle on what my options are for the engine. I have a 94 EJ22 in my 87 GL right now. I'm guessing I would need to use the Forester's intake manifold, but would it work with the block off the 2.2? Would I need to do anything else to get it to work? I'm working on searching for it, but there is a lot to sift through. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are the same part number between the two motors, so I'm thinking they should bolt up. Thanks!

Sears has some bolt extractors. They are sockets, but the inside looks more like a flower than a hex. The have a spiral blade in them, so as you twist it, they bite further on. I'll usually tap it on with a hammer first to get it started. I think a small set is around $20. They usually work pretty well.

Well, it looks like you are pretty well covered. Just one more piece of information, the place Subaru has you set the crank for timing belts puts all the pistons halfway through their stroke. Meaning, you can spin the cams all day long and not hurt a thing. Not that I recommend it, but it's a nice bit of reassurance. Just don't go spinning the crank. Also, I can't remember which one, but iirc, if you leave one of the idlers off until you get the belt routed, it will go on a lot easier. Otherwise, it can be a bit tight.

While you are checking the calipers, take a look at the hoses too. Bubbles will usually cause a soft pedal, but a twisted line could be holding some pressure on on caliper, kind of like a check valve.

Check all the air ducting between the MAF and the throttle body. If you have air coming into the engine that is not being read by the MAF, it can cause issues. Have you tried disconnecting the MAF, then driving it. If it runs the same with the MAF unplugged, that's not your issue. If the MAF is ok, I would start by looking at a spark plug. Make sure they are in good shape, and make sure it is the right type. I know in some of the legacys, the 2.2 and the 2.5 took different plugs. Also, why on earth would you throw that many sensors at a car? Try to at least isolate the system before you start replacing parts. It will save you a lot of money, and possibly some knuckle skin.

Sounds like a slave. If the clutch is worn out, it will typically release further off the floor than normal. If it's not coming all the way back, then it's most likely the hydraulic system, specifically the slave cylinder.

Subaru doesn't have a time to replace it. When we called the dealer for one in our shop, they said if it's not bad, don't touch it. If you do change it, make sure you use Subaru CVT fluid. I think Eneos CVT fluid is supposed to be ok, but I think the Subi stuff will be easier to get. These use a different fluid than a normal automatic. Also, iirc, the color and smell of the fluid is different.

Try higher quality brakes. Cheap stuff doesn't work as well. The ones we use a lot at the shop, and that I put on my mom's Odyssey , are Napa's Adaptive Ones. They wrok pretty well, and are quiet. Check out that link for Napa's info on them. I'd start with better pads and rotors. If they don't help, then you can look into other stuff. The problem with the high performance/racing stuff, is they aren't designed for everyday driving. They work their best when they are hot, much hotter than most people would get them day-to-day. Plus, as Idasho said, they will be noisy as hell.

What kind of phone do you have? You should be able to go into your bluetooth menu on your phone and see what it is connected as. If you want stuff other than phone calls to come over, it will need to be connected as a media device (on android, apple may call it something else, not sure). The radio will also need to have it's source on bluetooth audio. If the radio doesn't have that as an input, you are probably out of luck.

Did you check for vacuum leaks? You can do all you want to the carb, but it won't fix a vacuum leak. If there are no leaks, then you are probably looking at something in the carb. My old EA82 started doing that once. Ran fine (well, as well as it ever ran) off idle, but I had to put a coin under the accelerator pedal stop to get it home. Started spraying around, found it had sucked half the driver's side intake manifold gasket in. Made it run just a hair lean @ idle. Put the new gaskets on, re-adjusted the idle screws, worked great. Edit: Also, sorry about your dad. Hope you can get this going!

Whoops, guess I should've checked the date. Lol, nothing like old threads, eh?

The rattle could also be from your exhaust heat shields. Hate to go replacing parts over that. Get the codes checked, as others have said. Those will help a lot. Also, have you tried spraying something like brake clean around the intake? Vacuum lines aren't the only things that leak. Intake gasket can do it too.

I put new ones on the back of my 87 Coupe. When I set it down off the lift, the springs didn't compress at ALL! Spring rate may stay the same, but preload has a heavy effect on ride. The weight of the car wasn't enough to compress them, they were held in place by the strut. Mine were variable rate, but I had to cut the softer part, to get them to sit right. With the full spring, jumping up and down on the bumper didn't do a thing. One coil off made it were the car's weight would compress the springs when I put it down off the lift, but it rode like and old Jeep J20 with no load. Another half a coil, and it rode more like a performance car. I think you are assuming the weight is the preload; in this case, it's is the strut's length that gives it the preload. It won't effect ride height if the strut is maxed out, but it will change the stiffness. Edit: You are right in that if you make the spring shorter than the struts full length, it won't change stiffness, but until that point, it will make a difference.

BMW doesn't use a normal auto in their M series. They use a sequential, which as I had said, would be a whole different ball game. But those take a lot to develop. BMW can put the money into R&D for those, as they have a large performance market. Subaru, at least for now, only has one big performance line. And a sequential, at least one developed for performance, isn't going to be comfortable enough for a family car. Subaru is focusing on developing the CVT as their replacement for the traditional automatic, and have been working with the technology for it since the Justy. The CVT does a whole lot better for fuel economy and comfort, which is what most of their customers would like to see. Now, from what I've read, the new CVT in the WRX does pretty well, and is improving greatly as a performance transmission. But STi isn't going to put their badge on a car with it until it's to their requirements. Why do you think the STi is the only new car they are selling still using the EJ engine? In the next few years, maybe they will get the tuning on it just right, and we'll see it with an auto in the form of a CVT. If they can get it's responsiveness right, it could be incredible, as you will always be in the power band. But, at least for now, it's not ready.

Yes, it is. The non-STi models use the new FB series engine, the STi still uses the EJ25. This FB20 is 2.0L, 268hp, 258ft/lbs. Still turbo'd, a little bit higher boost, just not quite as big or powerful. As for the discontinued, it was probably sales. Although, judging by how few people seem to know about it, I'd say it was mostly on them for not advertizing it enough. You can find them used, but they didn't make a whole lot. We've got the largest volume Subaru dealer in the USA in town here, and when Subaru was still making them, they said they were special order. Kind of a bummer. If you want more info on the WRX, it's all on Subaru's website. Edit: To my knowledge, it was the same engine in the Legacy as the STi, but it may have had minor differences. It was a turbo'd 2.5L with a 6-speed manual transmission.

Congrats and welcome back. I think Subaru just gets in your blood. As for your list: 1) Well, I think you know what you need here. 2) For the window, use white lithium grease on all the metal on metal or metal on plastic contact points, silicone spray on the rubber. It's a good place to start. Just try to get the lithium grease in a can, whole lot easier to apply. Also, you'll need to clean your windows after the silicone. 3) Bottom plug is the drain plug, top one if the fill plug. Shouldn't be much below the fill plug. 4) Personally, I put KYBs on my 87 coupe, but I get parts at wholesale. I wouldn't use used struts/shocks unless I had to, but Colorado roads chew them up pretty quick. 5) Again, seems like you know where to go. 6) I love Colorado. Plastic doesn't do so well here, but we don't have to deal with as much rust. 7) Probably ought to check the battery too.

The WRX is available with an auto, but it's the CVT. Just not in the STi Trim. I don't think Subaru wants to continue making "normal" autos. Also, they'd tick off a lot of their die-hard fans. A lot of performance enthusiasts see an automatic as the Anti-Christ of motoring. Now if it were a true sequential, that might be different. Second, they did make a Legacy 2.5 GT, stopped selling it in America after 2012 iirc. They still sell it in Japan, even in an STi version... just not here. I'd love to see them bring it back, or make one with a twin-turbo H6. Unfortunately, our fuel economy requirements aren't exactly encouraging them to do it.

Maybe it was a loose ground. Oh well, glad to hear it's working for you now.

Did you ever try the test light on the coil, as suggested by fairtax4me? Your engine needs air, fuel, spark, and compression to run. You need to figure out what you are missing. Spark is an easy one to check on these engines. For fuel, you need fuel pressure/flow and injector pulse. You can try supplemental fuel, like brake clean or starter fluid, to see if it will start on that. Compression can be checked with a compression gauge. If you are missing multiple things, check the things they have in common. Like the others have said, go back to the basics. And take a break if you need to. You'll never make much progress when you're ticked off.

First off, welcome! The valve covers are a lot easier if you undue the exhaust manifold, engine mounts (just the nuts), and the torque mount/dogbone, then jack the engine up. You can push the engine over to the opposite side you are working on. Just make sure to use a wood block when you use a jack on the oil pan, and watch it carefully. Wouldn't want to make more work for yourself. Also, for future, try to put your car related questions in the appropriate area. You'll get better response.

If you are asking if it can be done, yes. It's been done several times. The 2.5 is the same procedure as a 2.2, 2.0, or a 1.8. Check out the retrofitting section. Plenty of stuff in there. Also, look for Numbchux guide on the swap.

He's right, doesn't sound too bad if they used Subaru parts. Those prices from john are most likely aftermarket. At the shop I work at, we usually sublet it to a muffler shop, they can usually do the whole job cheaper than we can get the parts. Cheaper for the customer, even with our markup. Also, rust does change it. Rusted bolts cut out, but bolts aren't the only things that rust.

Loyals should be good, GL will just need to be an EA82. Make sure the car looks like yours, not an older style.

I agree, mostly, but it's faster to get part numbers from the aftermarket than from the dealers.

Go on Napa's or anyone elses site, check the part numbers on the 2. If they're the same, you're golden. They should be the same, but this method is a good way for other parts and cars as well.