Dj7291993

Make sure the battery cables are tight on the battery. Can't tell you how many times I've seen what you described, and one or both of the terminals was loose.

I know none of you want to here this, but the guy in the store is right. Snap-On still makes they're ratchets in the USA, even has a metal toggle. Want to take a gander at how much a 3/8" drive ratchet costs from them? It's not cheap to build tools in the US, even less cheap to build them well. One of the reasons Snap-On's toolboxes cost so much, they're all made from virgin steel, a lot of it comes out of Pueblo, Co. Honestly, you're the reason they are made so cheap. Judging by where you went, and that you went with a coupon, I'd bet you'd never pay $150 for one new ratchet, would you? You complain about the companies being cheap and outsourcing, yet you don't support the ones that do still build quality stuff, and haven't outsourced everything. Why? If I had to guess, I'd say cause you can't afford to. Nothing wrong with that, but you're not the only one. For most guys, that plastic, China junk works good enough. And more importantly, fits their budget. If that's what the majority of people want, that's what the majority of companies will cater to. They have to in order to stay alive. If a business doesn't make money, it won't be a business for very long. You don't work your job for free, much less at a loss, why should a company owner? Only ways you can fix it is to change the demand, and change the supply. In other words, get more people to be willing to fork over a few grand for a good tool set, or make it cheaper to build things here (remove excessive regulations, and change the employee entitlement mentality).

Did you do continuity tests on the wire? If it fires when given a signal from the other one, then your coils should be fine. Have you back probed the signal wire at the connector, to see if it's sending from the ECU? Also, I'd double check that you have no shorts (to ground or power), and check your ground from block to bat, bat to body, & block to body. Bad grounds can cause some of the weirdest codes. Easy way to check it do a volt drop between the two points while cranking.

Check the battery connections, and ask if they've done a volt drop test on all the grounds. Those can cause some weird stuff.

Sounds like a starter. Do you have a multi-meter or volt-meter? If so, check to see how much voltage you have at the "S" terminal of the starter while cranking. If this is low, it can cause a condition where it will start sometimes, and not others. It should be battery voltage. You could have an ignition switch going out, although the starter is more likely. If you can't find the problem, you can also keep something in the car to apply voltage to the "S" terminal of the starter (remote starter switch, piece of wire, screwdriver, ect.). If it won't start with the key, but will when jumping power directly to the starter, then your problem is either in the switch, wiring, relay, or an anti-theft device.

The 1/2 inch impact extensions are actually pretty soft. The don't fail, but the twist quite a bit, so don't plan on using them on really tight bolts with an impact. The 6" one, I have had twist 40+* on some motor mount bolts with my 1/2" drive Snap-On ratchet. Not terrible if you use them mostly for hand tools, or lighter stuff. But it gets fairly frustrating using it with an impact.

Just remembered, one of the car manufacturers has a TSB about Harbor Freight Fuses. Something about not blowing, even with more than double their rated current going through them. Small fires, you know, stuff that could mess up your day. Can't remember what car that was on though....

That works too. Just for the OP's information, the rag joint is used to give it a flex point, possibly as an impact cushion. I'm not against eliminating parts that you feel are unnecessary, but it's always good to know why it's there in the first place before you decide it's not needed.

It would be a good idea. It's called a rag joint. Should be able to pick one up at the parts house. I don't think they're too expensive. Should tighten up some of the play in your steering. Better to change it now, while you have it out, then to put it back in, and have to pull it back out later. If it does tear, you can pretend like you're driving through a movie.

Lol, if you're high altitude, you may need to adjust those reds and greens. 16 inches ain't too bad around here. I don't think I ever seen one hit 22, outside of snap-closed-throttle.

Well, you'll definitely want decent tires in the rain. Lots more power plus no more traction = very little forward movement. Lol. It's definitely worth it. I can spin the tires in my 87 GL Coupe going into 2nd gear under hard acceleration. Much less downshifting, I put it in 5th even around town, and don't typically have to shift back down. Of course, doesn't mean you won't want to....

Put it in the air in gear (be smart though, don't have it close enough to the ground to touch when it's rocked), then use a stethoscope. You may need to have someone give it some gas, to get it going fast enough to make the noise.

You're unlikely to find a JDM EJ22, since the taxes in Japan put engines over 2000cc (2.0L) in a higher registration tax bracket. It doesn't make much sense for them to produce a domestic engine with a few more horse power, but goes from being classified as a small car, to a anything-bigger vehicle. This would put anything with a 2.2L in the same class as a big, fuel-chuggin' V8 monster. If you're looking for JDM, you will probably want to look for an EJ20.

As for tools, I would recommend going snap-on for the ratchets. They have a special around this time of year on a 1/4 and 3/8 drive ratchet that comes with a free screwdriver set. Two things you don't want to go cheap on are screw drivers and ratchets. Cheap screw drivers will twist and chips, which will get REALLY annoying. Ratchets, the tooth count will make a big difference. You can get away with decent sockets for most things, and you can get better ones as you go, but the ratchets make a huge difference. And, like belacane said, an impact and some sockets. Depending on where you go to work, most of the cars in shops now are going to be metric, so keep that in mind when buying your wrenches and impact sockets. You want both eventually, but you'll probably use the metric a LOT more. Two other tools I highly recommend are some magnetic trays and a magnetic pick-up tools. 3/8 Flex Head 1/4 Flex Head

I used an xt6 clutch kit. Can't remember the part number, but I think I just went on to Luk's site to look it up, then found it on Ebay.

Small shops are probably a better place to start. Get to know some local owners. Offer to buy them lunch (or breakfast) and just talk to them. Ask them about the business, what someone needs to do to get into the business, ect. Even if they aren't looking to hire someone, they may have some contacts who are. BUT... you have to make a good impression first!!! Also, pay really close attention to the electrical stuff. There are all kinds of people trying to get into this business that know how to change parts, but if you can learn to like electrical, and get good at it, that will give you an edge. To be honest, two years isn't too bad at a dealer, as it will give you some time to start building your toolbox, so you don't have to do $5,000, $10,000, or $20,000 all at once. The nice thing about finding a smaller shop, especially like a family business, is they can work with you a little more. Plus, you get a more rounded experience working in a shop with only a few techs, vs one that has a specialist for everything. That will be useful if you decide to try for one of the bigger places later on. Just remember, the bigger the shop, the more politics involved. A degree will help, but some decent projects on your own car can show them that you actually know how to apply it. Something like stripping a harness for an EJ swap shows that you not only know how to read diagrams and follow wires, but that you understand the information they're giving you. Lastly, make a good impression on your teachers. Since you don't have much "real world experience", references are going to be your best way to build credibility. And while a good word from your aunt on how nice you are is great, a good word from people in the industry, or even people you have done work for, is even better. You should know enough from your schooling to be able to some brake jobs or oil changes on the side here and there. While it's not really shop experience, if the customers are impressed with your work, it's going to speak to your cleanliness and professionalism. Personally, I work at a small shop. I had made good friends with a fellow usher at church who owned a shop. I talked with him a lot, and made a pretty good impression on him. He invited to come down to his shop sometime, so I did. He showed me around, and we talked for a while after that. He wasn't looking for anyone at the time, but without me even asking, he started calling some other shop owners he knew to see if they needed anyone. It took some time, but about a month later, he asked me if I was still looking for a job. He gave me the number of the guy I know work for. At the time, he only had one tech. So I got to shadow the main tech, and I'd do some stuff like brakes, oil changes, and water pumps. After I had been there almost a year, he had to let the other guy go, so I am now the main technician. We've got one other tech there now, and a service writer. We stay pretty busy, and the shop's reputation is built on integrity. My boss opened the place back in 1980. One really nice thing about it is they treat me like family. So, while there are definitely advantages to bigger shops, a small family owned place can be a pretty good place to work. Lol, who knows, play your cards right, and they might just sell you the shop when they go to retire. P.s. ASE certification is big, so make sure you know how long until you can get certified, and let them know. Certification is not only important to customers and parts houses, but it shows a commitment to your work. I believe they have a new certification for maintenance tech that only requires one year of work experience. And, for the main a series tests anyway, you can supplement 1 year of work experience for 2 years of formal education. Definitely something to look into. Edit: Sorry for the wall of text. Hope it some of it helps.

It displays as part of the post for me. Here's a link: http://youtu.be/Bch5B23_pu0

Well, this isn't quite ready for mass use, and is probably way out of budget to get them to fit it to your engine, but if you eliminated the camshafts, you could probably get a lot more torque at low rpm, without sacrificing your high rpm. This video is part of a series done touring the Swedish car maker, Koenigsegg. This particular one, the explain one of their technologies they are working on for the future, called the Cargen Free Valve System. Probably not practical yet, but something to get your brain going.

95 and later should have the cat seperate from the manifold/y-pipe. 94 and earlier, it was one piece. He knows you don't want the cat, right? Maybe try another one. Normally, I would've gone to pull and pay, but they chop off a little more than they need to. Why bother with cutting the bolts when you could just cut the pipe?

When you decide to do this, make sure you don't forget the cost of exhaust. Sit down and really figure out how much it will cost you. You could get the harness now, and start stripping it down, then start pricing out other parts. Don't forget prices for electric fans, radiator and heater hoses, clamps, bolts, wire, connectors, something to make the pitch-stopper/dog-bone mount work, and fluids. For me, the exhaust was the most expensive part. I got a '95 y-pipe and the flange of the cat for $80 from a local scrap-yard (they can't sell you the cat, but my exhaust guy wanted it to have something to weld to), plus the O2 sensor (i get parts wholesale through work, but they run around $100), and then $320 for the muffler, resonator, and the rest of the system (the guy gave me a deal on it. Unless you know someone who will do it without a cat, or you're gonna do it yourself, you're probably looking at more). And don't forget any maintainence you might want to do before you put it in (ie. spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, timing belts, ect). The car is great after doing it, but don't think this is going to be cheap. Personally, if you're sure you want to do it, what I did is, after I got the motor and harness, started buying stuff here and there 'till I was ready to do it. Things like fans, O2 sensor, clutch, flywheel.... That way, when you do get to it, you won't have so much at once.

Is it most common when braking, accelerating, or cuising? If it's when braking, you're most likely looking at warped rotors. Rotors on these are pretty cheap since there's not much to them. You could change them now, or wait 'till your pads wear out.

Numbchux guide is pretty thorough. The one thing I had a challenge with in my 87 was one power wire. I didn't notice it in the wiring diagram at first, so make sure you double check them. The one I missed was the one that goes to the MPFI diode (I think that's what it was called). Also, there are two ways you can do the radiator hoses. You can try to find the hoses with two different sized ends... or you can get some rubber adapters that slide into one end of the hose to change its inner diameter. That's what I did. If you need, I can see if I can find the Napa part number. Is the engine coming out an EA81 or EA82? Mine was an EA82. If you are pretty comfortable with wiring, one thing I wish I would've done is take out the SMJ (the huge connector), just cause it would've made tucking the wires up a bit easier. Also, for the oil pressure, the EA engines have a pressure sensor, hence the gauge on the instrument cluster. The EJs have a low oil pressure switch, intended for a light. You can wire in a light if you wish. I just wired it to the gauge, so if the gauge reads 0, everything is ok; if it's pegged, you have no oil pressure. Not the best way to do it, but it works. Lol, just be sure to warn anybody who uses your car first. One more thing. You will have to figure out something for the pitch-stopper/dog-bone. For my car, I took one off a first gen Impreza (92 I think). You need the tranny bracket and the mount itself. It doesn't line up perfectly (it's probably ~2-3* off from the centerline of the car), but it works. Haven't had any issues with it.

So, I have everything running and hooked up, but now my clutch won't engage. I used the XT6 clutch kit from Luk, pressure plate, disk, and bearings. Yet, the clutch won't engage. I checked the fork, even undid the cable to pull it back all the way, yet it still won't engage. Any ideas? Edit: Nevermind. Stupid 4wd lever....

Well, I finally got around to doing my swap, 94 EJ22 out of a Legacy into my 87 GL Coupe. Have the wiring rigged up at the moment. At first I had no spark, but then I found a power wire I had missed. Pays to have some wiring diagrams and a test light. Didn't have any power on the yellow wire going to the diode and coil. Hooked that up, and it fired right off. I'll try to post the video later.

My 87 GL Coupe has a 15.9 Gallon tank. That's what the manual says anyway. If it's 14.5, I think I have a problem, 'cause I've filled it to 15.3 without topping it off, so I don't know where it would hide the extra gallon. On that note, those cars are great at using most of the tanks. Also, I would really like to see that dual range here, too. In fact, that was the first thing I thought of when I heard about it.