Dj7291993

The bad: I've twisted a few (socket) drive size adapters in half, twisted an impact socket, but only one of them, screw drivers are twisted (they work great for tightening after you twist them loosening though ), flashlights are junk, and their 500 watt halogen bulbs, on the few occasions they're not dead or broken out of the box (seriously, just spend a little bit more on a decent bulb). I've killed one of their 1/2 air impact wrenches. The decent: The shop light I got there has held up alright, although it doesn't adjust very far, and it's not as nice as similar ones, it only cost me like $20 (just get better bulbs). The sockets extensions I have are holding up, but I don't use them that often. For the price, the wrenches aren't too bad. My 3-ton floor jack does fine lifting and holding, but it's hard to gently lower stuff. Magnetic trays are fine. Haven't had an issue with the cheap multi-meter I got to keep in my car, but I'm not sure how accurate it is. And tape measures are pretty good. Most of the stuff I've bought there though, I don't expect more than a few uses out of. So when it lasts, it's just a pleasant surprise. Oh, and at work, we twisted on of their car dollies. My boss had put some heavier-duty casters on it from Cornwell... casters help up great, wheel dolly folded in half. But, we weren't being very nice to it either.

Just guessing from looking at it, but the switch is probably for "run", the button would be to the starter, and the light, I would guess, would be powered off the switch, to show it's on. You might need to put a separate switch for "accessory", though.

The turn signals were tinted in the cluster, but did not have the sleeves over the bulbs, the other four had both The gas gauge was working in that picture, I took that before I put it all back. I think I got it back, but I'm not sure yet I used white multiple LED bulbs, they look just like the ones in your pictures. They look great. Thanks for the idea, it was pretty easy. I did it with everything but the speedometer cable still hokked up, but I don't have the covers on the front of it (broke when I had it out for the transmission swap).

I might have fixed it, but I won't know for sure 'till I get to the next fill up. I think the needle twisted on the spindle, so I popped it off and put it back about where it was before. It seems to dip a lot more when I go around corners, but it does go back up. I'll update when after I fill it up this coming week.

Well, did the cluster on my 87 GL, turned out great (well, except my gas gauge quit after I put it back in, not sure what I did). The green cluster, at least the one in mine, does have the green sleeves over the four back-light bulbs, in addition to the green tint. The turn signals did not, though. I haven't done all the other bulbs yet, but I plan on doing it soon. It's not very clear, but I took a picture of my dash with half LED, half incandescent. It was on my phone, so quality isn't great, but it gives an idea of the difference in light output.

Anybody? Any recommendations on where I should start for testing? Anything? Please?

Check out this thread if you want to see most of the pros and cons. I don't use them, makes it a lot easier, I can change my water pump in about 20mins (one of the downsides to an Autozone pump, they break a lot, but it's got a lifetime warranty). I haven't had any issues, plus the timing belts on this are really easy to change with no covers on it, so even if they do fail, you can keep a spare set in the car. The engine is non-interference, so it won't damage anything.

So, I was changing out the lights in my instrument cluster (87 GL Coupe, EA82 Carb, originally automatic, converted to manual), worked great, no issues. All the gauges still worked, the only thing I unplugged was the speedo cable. So, I put it all back, went to move the car, and noticed the gauge was pegged (full), so I checked to make sure I hadn't bumped it, like I've done on the coolant and oil guage, but it's range was still normal. So, I turned on the car, and it didn't change. However, if you move the gauge, by hand, to the "E" side of 1/2, it will fall to that side's end of travel. If you move it to above 1/2, it will rise to strait up (past full). If you get it really close to 1/2, it stays put. I checked the wires, to see if I had bumper them, they all look ok. I jiggled it around, no change, so I tried unplugging it (the connector), and the gauge goes all the way up, from where ever the needle starts. Any ideas on what I might have done to it? Note: I did try searching, but didn't see anything similar.

What are you capable of? Would it be possible for you to make hubs? If you could do it safely, and for a reasonable cost, it might be a nice alternative to junkyard. Especially for people with rear disk. I've seen one site that sells front hubs, but the rear hubs are scarce used. New, so far as I can tell, doesn't exist. I know it may be outside of your capabilities, but it would be cool if you could. I like the idea of a snorkel, some more bumpers. A hitch would be sweet, but I think you've mentioned adding that to the bumpers. Roof rack? I don't know what kind of demand it would have, but there might be some market for a roll cage. Just some ideas.

Lol, I was looking at the first pic thinking, wow, pretty cool stu... is that the ground "above" the brat? Hope it didn't damage you guys or the car too badly.

That's pretty similar to mine, but the arms look a little better.

I tried those in my car, but the baked withing a couple weeks and shattered (my coupe gets very hot, plastic around my rear view mirror is powdering, clock trim is melted, ect.). 'Course, the dry air here doesn't do much for plastic. I ended up using marine ones, and bolting them to the door. Works of, but I should have bought ones with stronger arms, these don't hold very tight. Wish I could still put it next to the brake, but nothing fits.

I've got one of those. Replaced my rear light in my coupe with the LED strips. I love their brightness, the light could be a little softer, though. I also wired my map lights (the ones by the rear-view mirror) into the dome circuit to brighten it up a bit, too. I had to wire the dome to a new switch anyway, so I got a couple diodes from Raioshack, and wired them both to the switch.

When I called them for mine, they said it was discontinued, but mine would be a different part. Worth a shot.

I don't have much experience with them, but my boss said they haven't had good luck with aftermarket cats on Subarus, he said the always end up throwing codes. Like I said, I haven't tried them, but he was advising me against using and aftermarket one when I was telling him about my swap.

If you want a button that works like turning the key (meaning, where you have to hold it down 'till the engine starts, then just about any button/momentary-on-switch should work. I'm not positive, but on a new car, the button would probably send a signal to the computer, and as long as it had a signal that the key was there, it would start. The key detector would function kinda like a neutral switch, at least in terms of the starting circuit. As long as the button can handle the current, it should be fine. However, if you want that you touch the button, and it cranks until it starts, you'd need a module for it.

Being professional doesn't mean you use the hammer less, it just means you know which one to use. As for the brakes, they're pretty easy with a tool for the pistons. I know Autozone has a fancy caliper compressor you can rent, but it's a bit pricier than the square tool. You'll need a 36mm socket for the axle nut, and a new cotter pin. You can use a mallet or a puller if they're stuck. I use a screw type puller, rather than a slide hammer. Got it at harbor freight cheap, kinda clumsy to set up, but it works great once it's on. Then you'll probably need some hammer taps to knock the rotor off the hub (after the 4 bolts are out). Putting it back together isn't too bad. If the axle is a little bit stubborn sliding in, you can use the nut to help pull it through. If it's really stuck, pull it back off and make sure it's lined up right. The axle nut gets torqued to 145ft/lbs. The back will vary slightly on fwd vs 4wd. Still, they're pretty simple, especially since there is no parking brake. I know the fwd can be changed without pulling the tire off (not recommending, just noting). Just be careful of the wheel bearing.

You can order the cable from just about any parts store. I believe Napa sells them for around $50, almost identical to the original, except it doesn't have a lock nut, so keep that. However, if you've got more time, the one I got from autozone was around $35, and is a lot sturdier than the Napa one (I know, suprised me too, probably because it was made in Isreal instead of China or Mexico). The cable sleeve is thicker and firmer, and the brackets are more beefy. The only thing you might have to watch for it one of the washers was a little to thick on mine, so I had to use one off the old one. Yours could be a little different though, since it's and EA81. Mine's an 87 EA82 Coupe.

@O.C.D. Yeah, lost it just West of Powers. The car is sitting in the merge lane onto West-bound Woodmen from Duryea. I'll be getting it towed a little later. As for the cotter pin, it must have. No way it would have fell out. I know it had the two original washers, but they might have been worn out. I might end up ordering one, but I'll probably get one from the junkyard. @edrach, I tightend it after it was on the ground, put a little extra since I was retightening it, then turned it tighter till the holes for the pin lined up. I snugged it in the air, torqued it on the ground, put a temp pin in it, test drove it to make sure it had fixed the noise, rechecked the torque, then put a nice beefy cotter pin in it. I've never had an issue like this on my '87, I've had other issues, mostly engine, but never any touble aside from wearing the axle boots out. I'm gonna have it towed down to the shop, see if I can see something in the air that isn't as evident on jackstands.

so, my dad was driving to work this morning in his '88 GL FWD Sedan, when the Left (drivers's) axle nut flew off. Now, we've had issues with this side before, it's stripped out it's hub twice, and gone through more axles than the right side. I'm trying to figure out how it came off, though. I had this side come loose a couple months ago, and just figured I hadn't got it quite tight enough when I changed the hub. So, I tightened it down, tighter than the 140ft/lbs it calls for, and put a bigger cotter pin in it. I have two questions. First, what would cause/allow it to come loose like that? Second, am I going to have to go to the junkyard to find the washers (flat and conical)? Unfortunately, the road it came off on it one of the busiest East/West roads in Colorado Springs, so I can't just go looking across three lanes off traffic to find the one that came off.

If it's not starting at zero, you can pull the cover off, and just turn the needle (key off) until it's at zero.

I'm in Colorado, and aside from ice covering the keyhole, or icing a window to it's frame (the motor is powerful enough to break thin ice, this was around 1/8" thick, was choking the engine since it had iced over the fender), cold weather doesn't do much to it. Just check your switches. My passenger window switch has failed multiple times, and still doesn't work quite right (87 GL Coupe). My dad's front windows both work fine, but his rear windows have issues going back up (88 GL Sedan). His power locks work great, never had an issue, mine... don't exist, sadly. I've considered trying to install them, though.

Grab whatever it uses as a return spring, too. Usually, it's the hill holder. You don;t need the hill holder system, but you'll need the part with the spring (or rig a spring in yourself). I just cut the lines going to it, and zip tied it into an open space. There's better ways, but since I was pulling the junkyard trans in Feb, the ground was covered in snow, mud, and ice, and I just wanted it out. Also, a tip on the pedals, the studs the mount to, are from the brake booster. Once you get the nuts off, pry that back, it'll make getting it out easier.

How much did you tighten that? Axle shaft nut's torque specs are 145ft/lbs on my '87.

Hmm, maybe I'll have a look down there. Mouser is good to know, spent quite a while searching last night for one. Not sure I trust the little slider switches. Although, price is a bit steep. I can get 5-post relays on Amazon for about $2 (~$10 w/shipping for a 5 pack). Normal switches are cheap. I'll definitely check the hb thing, though.