asis

Now this forum is HARDLY "the" automotive comunity, and I disagree. Correct, it does not depend on where you buy it, only if it will bolt up without being modified, will any warranty be supported at any other outlet? No mods to the car is a good thing no doubt, still a direct replacement is not available through common outlets. No it is not a "direct" bolt on in most cases, from my experience, however once done, you can buy a "direct" replacement filter if need be. We can bantor this all night and I promise you I can find more examples of your explanation being less correct than mine...we can get into Federal Aviation Regulations and such if you really want some discreet explanations of mods, replacements, repairs, overhaul, rebuild, refurbish.......etc. It gets in depth I can assure you...but I think it will only detract from your efforts and I really don't care to bantor. Now if you just want to offer your find and not share any info, then by all means perhaps you should seek a patent Good luck, and oh ya, thanks for the joust

To me it means that I can buy the replacement anywhere and bolt it on direct without any modifications. So if you have to modify a factory part to make it a bolt on, then to me, it is no longer a direct bolt on. If I add your modified alt to my car, then give it to my daughter who then has a failure of said part, and she is not able to buy a direct replacement, then...it is not a "direct bolt on" IMO

Maybe you have a mod that is a direct bolt in?

Ok, once you modify it because you have to, it is no longer a "direct bolt in" If I can't get it at NAPA or a salvage yard and bolt up, then.... Still nice, just not bolt in IMO... :-\

What roll bar do you have?

I'd be interested in what you found out...if you "built" it, how is it a direct bolt in? Not sure where maxima alts are so plentiful tho....not in the yards in my neck tho...?

What do you base this assumption on????

Aren't they 2", pretty sure mine are :-\ I might be interested in a front bar, I was planning on making a pattern for the frame mounts anyway the next time I have mine off.

Ok I do think I have seen it in the auto aisle after thinking about it. With the other oil treatments, injector cleaners, fuel additives n such..? I don't think air is hangin in the lifters as long as my tick hangs on untill it warms up tho. I can see that to some point, and as I have run 20/50 (ruh roh ) in it since I got it until the last year or so, I know its slow to prime/purge the system. My tick..? goes away after the engine is warm enough to idle at its normal speed which, since I have owned it, has been around 1000 to 1100. Hell maybe my tick is more of a rattle er sumin that closes up once hot :-\ It had been leaking/using about 1 qt per 5k so I haven't done any more than a continual oil change but this last 5k it only lost 1/2 qt so maybe its due a flush and smoothie BTW, what do you think about detergent vs non detergent oil? Only ask because I thought I found a deal on a 2.5 gl of 30w, got home to find out it was ND. No biggie since I am using it for small engines and its actually better for that purpose, but it got me to do some research. ND uses parifin which helps seal leaks and also accumulate the sludge. HD suspends the combustion process until its drained or full. I haven't seen it specified anywhere, maybe all I have read is just before HD was the norm. Thx for your input tho, but I know you really don't care any way since its just a POS EA82 oh btw, with 280,000 miles

Well since this thread is revived and...what is "rislone"? Lifter noise should be less on a cold (once oil pressure is up) engine right..??? What about a tick that goes away when the engine warms (and still has over 45lbs oil pressure)?

Not at all on my part. I just hope you can find a new understanding of our position...I don't anticipate return customers for a problem I should have already resolved... and as much as I like what I do, still kinda hard starving just for fun

You have to treat the EA82 like a typical grocery getter, and then it can be a very reliable and dependable engine, it is after all, still a subie If you want something to get from point A to B at the speed limit, in "normal" driving conditions, including some inclement weather, the EA82 can certainly deliver. While it may be the "worse" engine Subaru ever made, that still makes it comparable if not superior to other engines. Bottom line, it give back what you give, abuse it and it will you, treat it nice and it will return the favor. This engine, and the cars they were installed in, were never marketed as being offroad terrors. Grocery getters is all they were, and they do a FINE job of it....IHMO

Any chance your tick is an exhaust leak?

Not sure about your stance but, I aint got no feathers so As far as Independents, you might consider some things as a mechanic, that you might not as a doctor.... If you are a doctor or mech...most likely you also have the equipment/tools to perform the duties. Do you need band aids, disinfectant stethoscope, knowledge, experience, training... You may not have to drive to the local parts store for parts, pay shipping and tax, gas to get there and back, and account for your time, but private mechs do or they pay or luckily, break even. Parts research alone can get quite involved and consume hours to make sure it IS the right part, AND is necessary. Just wait for two weeks for a part, then find the one sent is not right.... I would offer a dare to any first timer to track their hours, trips, milage, incidentals, fluids, chemicals, tools, etc. and then tell a mech who has all of it already, and charges only 35/hr, that they are being unreasonable. Double that for minimum if they are a legit tax paying business, and triple it if they have a franchise name.

YEP! In case the post I typed while you posted missed it's point

Ehhh?!?! those are "shop rates" not mechanics wages I don't think that is an astronomical price by any means especially if you just thumbed through a phone book and picked the first shop that would see you within an acceptable amount of time AND even work on that old of a vehicle. The book hours are as much of a consumer protection as they are a "standard". They usually are built in with fudge factor and in the end it should be up to the mechanic to determine if the book hours are acceptable for the condition of the vehicle. Unforeseen issues/labor involving the work discussed, should not cost the customer any more than agreed to. If issues are found during that work that may need addressed, then it should be cleared with the customer prior to parts or labor being charged in addition to the original agreement. I charge the same rates as GD mentioned for repairing outdoor power equipment. I can only do that because I am just helping out neighbors but when I did run it as a business, the cost of keeping it a "business" was 10 to 15 bux/hr. Damn ya'll got me sounding like a Lawyer er sumin'

Yep! Looks like a nice alteration I still need to compensate for the difference in length of my brackets to my mounts. Prolly leave my mounts and adapt the brackets even tho I don't expect to ever haul anything that they will be in the way of, Basically they will be a permanent fixture. Solid and functional, nice work Perty is just an added bonus!

I didn't really intend to get this far this soon but since I have... The panels and high bar are just sitting there "drying" at this point. I do think I will go ahead and pull the chrome strip and finish the bed, leaving the floor in black primer as I plan on herculining it in the end.

The "extra" BRAT is more of a donor than a parts rig. Mainly got it because it came with the jump seats/bracket and headrests as well as the highbar and pushbar like new tires on original gen 1 wheels. I do intend on keeping it complete and now with a spare EA71 as well, eventually a nearly complete and drivable rig for someone else to have fun with.

More painting on the BRAT hi bar, removed broken panel screws and more bed priming/painting.

Got my high bar out again and did some more welding on the base. It was fairly flaky around the base but I added enough wire from my welder and grinded enough and added more, should hold a head wind and a couple of lights now. Think I already mentioned my final color. Wine, Maroon, Burgundy, Dark Red......just DON"T call it purple For the side brackets, I cut a couple of slabs from my daughters old goloshers and used some auto cement to glue the rubber to the brackets. Once I get the bar bolted down, I might just use some pop rivets into the sides. Cold temps so things just held in place and the pics are in a dark barn so....will get some next time I see the sun.

86' GL Bought it in Dec 94' with 157k for $2650.00

How did you "trace" it to fuel filters? Doesn't sound like a filter issue to me at least "now" unless some crud got past and now in the carb.