2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I just spent over an hour writing up my response and got booted out so I hope that I don't end up posting it twice like I've done in the past. First I'd like to say thanks to everyone who has tried to help me in solving my problem. I'd like to say thanks to those who created and manage this forum, it is awesome and you all do a great job. Your time, advice and expertise is really appreciated. I've spent the afternoon reaserching and diagnoising my timing belt. The timing belt was replaced at 117,000 miles at a Subaru dealership and it looks as though they replaced the tensioner at that time, it cost $140.00 for it. I don't see any documentation saying that the Idler Pulley's were replaced. As for the timing belt guide being reinstalled, I'd have to say that they did so. I tried to chek earlier to see if it was in place but could'nt tell. I removed the left (drivers) side cover and as many fasteners as possible on the right (passengers) side. This is exactly how we did the camsprocket alignment in Post #50. At first I could'nt find the "Arrows" then I noticed them on the inner/inside of the camshaft sprockets. I then noticed on the right side cover there was a rubber cover on the t-belt cover, I removed it and with a mirror and flashlight I was able to see the "Arrow" once I figured out how to turn the crankshaft sprocket. That took a while too because I had the car in gear, once I put it in neutral I was able to turn it. One thing I did notice that was when the "Lines" were lined up with the knotch on the t-belt cover left side and the seam on the cylinder head on the right side that the "Arrows" were at about 2:00 o'clock. Once I got the "Arrows" to 12:00 o'clock I think I found the knotch on the "crankshaft pulley" to be about 2-3 degrees to the left (looking at it) on the timing scale. Now I know what was meant by the "crank pulley not being in terrible shape", it was hard to see/find that knotch. As for the belt being loose, it doesn't appear to be. I'm able to push it down about a 1/4 inch on the left (drivers) side at the edge of the right cover. I can squeeze the belt about a 1/4 inch on each side of the left camshaft sprocket. Another thing I noticed was that the camshaft sprocket on the right side didn't have a lip on the back side of it to keep the belt in line or on track wghereas the left one did. I also notice that the belt appeared to be torwards the back or flush with the camshaft sprocket. I was able to carefully slide it forward with a flat blade (regular) screwdriver. I hope that the belt is within spec and is acceptable. Tomorrow I will look into getting the Neutral Switch. I noticed that Subarupartsforyou.com call it a "Neutral Safety Switch" and that it is Part No. 32008AA074 and it's about $29.00. I assume that they are one in the same and that it will come with a new washer and electrical connector/wire. Also while researching the "2000+Legacy FSM" I couldn't find the section on Manual Transmissions. I thought it would be in the "Transmission and Transaxle Section". Could someone please tell where I can find it? Again, thank you to everyone in sticking with me on this. I look forward to your comments, suggestions and recommendations. 2000 Legacy

Thank you so much for your time OB99W, I can't even imagine how long it took you to do this. It was definately worth reading. I am truely amazed at your knowledge and how well you explain things and how you are able to make these diagnosis. I will have to read it a few more times and get a better understanding of the timing belt and it's parts. Maybe Sunday I'll be able to investigate. Thanks again. 2000 Legacy

Hi again, I rechecked the Check Engine codes; P0304, P0302, P0303, P0301, P0113 and like you said earlier P1133. I haven't cleared them or the Live Data that I first documented when I got the Innova 3130. Do you think I should? The results from Post # 132: - Step 4: "MAP" reading was 29.2 with the key on, engine off. - Step 5 & 6: I started the car at 5:14 PM and took the following readings in 1 minute intervals for 10 minutes and got the following results: - at start/idle: "MAP" was 15.6, "Spark Adv" was 12 then changed to 7 and the "Vacuum Gauge" read 12 and seemed to drop. - at 1 minute intervals respectively: - "MAP"; 18.8, 19.7, 18.6, 17.7, 16.5, 17.4, 14.7, 13.2, 12.9 & 12.4 lastly (10 min. later). - "Spark Adv"; 9-7, 7-8, 6, 8, 7, 9, 4-11, 8, 4-7 & 6 lastly (10 min. later). - "Vacuum Gauge"; 10-11, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 11.5-12, 12.5, 14.5, 16, 17 and 17 lastly (10 min. later). I finished the above readings at about 5:24 PM. Note the car hadn't been started/driven since last night at 10:00 PM. I meant to check the 3130 right away this afternoon at 5:14 PM to see if it was "OL" or "CL". I checked it about a minute or so after I started the car and the 3130 read "CL". - Step 7: At 5:29 PM the car had been idling for about 15 minutes before I started this step and got the following readings at "Idle", "1500 RPM's" and "2500 RPM's" respectively: - "MAP";11.8, 8.2 and 8.8 at 2500 RPM's. - "Spark Adv"; 10-12, 29 and 34 at 2500 RPM's. - "Vacuum Gauge"; 17.5-18, 22 bouncing all around and 20.5-22.0 at 2500 RPM's the gauge seemed to be pretty steady at the 2500 RPM's. When I connected the vacuum gauge, I used the tee and the port on top of the intake manifold to the right of the throttle body looking into the engine compartment. Hope this information helps us. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and everyone else, To answer your question in Post # 131, Correct, unplugging the electrical connection for the A/F (O2) sensor did not correct the stalling. If anything the car may have even run a little rougher, though it was hard to tell since I only went around the block, 1 mile total (.3 mile - stop sign, .1 mile - stop sign, then .4 mile turn and .3 mile to the driveway). I agree with changing the Neutral Switch, I don't think that it's too expensive. I'll look around and maybe do at next weeks auto class where hopefully I'll have access to a lift. Thanks for the links to the 2010 Subaru similar problems. I wonder if this is why SOA wanted me to go back to a Subie dealer. I never seemed to notice if the AC on or off made a difference. I also find it hard to believe that I'm the only MT 2000 Legacy with this problem. As for the ECU being reflashed, I wonder how expensive that is. One thing I forgot to mention last night was that I picked up another code, I think it was a PO1133 or P1133. I can't remember, I'll have to recheck. I think it was a Subaru unique and that it was maybe caused by diconnecting the A/F (O2) sensor. As for Post # 132, I'm definately in the spirit of not spending money. I'll try to get these readings tonight if the weather permits, we're supposed to get a lot of rain within the next 24 hours. If not tonight I'll shoot for the weekend again but will post as soon as possible. Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi everyone, I really appreciate everyones effort on this. I'm sorry that I didn't or haven't looked into the MAF. After rereading the discussion I could have easily checked this tonight. Anyways, when I got home from work this afternoon I tried the experiment in disconnecting or unplugging the A/F (O2) sensor at the connection and drove the car around the block, 1 mile. It stalled everytime whenever I came to a stop or pushed the clutch in. The car hadn't been driven since Monday night prior to this afternoon. With this being said do you still think my problem is the A/F (O2) sensor? I know it probally should be changed becuase I don't think it ever has been. I just hate to keep putting money into the car if I can't fix it. I know no one can guarantee anything and I don't hold anyone responsible if I did replace it and it doesn't work. Like I said earlier I am just so thankfull for everyones help. Also I was talking to a guy I work with this morning who used to work at a Subie dealership. He asked about the Neutral Safety Switch, I told him that we tried/checked that. He suggested I recheck it and to this time move the shifter around while in each gear. So I did this earlier at the ECM, B135 Connector, Pin 26 I backprobed and got the following; - Neutral = 11.28 volts. - 1st, 2nd and 4th gear it remained consistantly 0.01 volts. - in 3rd gear it was 0.01 volts without moving the shifter however in moving it around within gear it changed anywhere from 0.01 to 1.00 volts. - in 5th gear it was 0.01 volts without moving the shifter up to as high as 1.9 volts. Any thoughts or do these results mean anything? I thought I had read in the FSM that neutral should be 12.0 +/- .5 volts and that while in gear it should be 0 volts. Someone else had asked me if while driving and pushing in the clutch and pushing the accelerator if the RPM's would go up and keep the car from stalling. I don't think I ever tried it so tonight on the way home I tried it. Whenever the car was going to shutdown if I stepped on the acelerator I would get nothing, it was like the car was completely dead. Then when I took my foot off the clutch it came back to life or pop started itself. The times I pushed the clutch in and the car wasn't going to shutdown and if I stepped on the accelerator the RPM's went up. I don't know if this means anything, I thought I'd just throw it out there. Well thats it for now. Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Thanks again OB99W for the insight and the links. When you say disconnect the O2 Sensor do you mean disconnector unplug it from its electrical connection or remove the sensor entirely? If I do so do you think it would harm anything if I was to disconnect it, drive home 25 miles, let the car sit a week and then drive another 25 miles to either replace the sensor or reconnect it? If all I need to try this experiment is to unplug the electrical connection, how accessible and where is it? Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and anyone else interested, I cleaned the E/B Connectors as well as the B83 ground connector. They all looked good, no sign of corossion. I sprayed them good with the isoprpyl, hair dried them and let the car sit for 24 hours. I took it for a ride and the problem (stalling) still ocurred. I checked for recalls, my records and found that on 12/26/2002 with about 46,000 miles Subaru performed WXV79, Engine Control Module. From what I can tell on my invoice they replaced the ECM with a remanufactured one. At the time when they did this the car would still run when the key was removed while the shifter was in reverse only. The invoice also said that the check engine light was on and they said it was misfiring, they replaced plugs and wires. Could the ECM have gone bad again? Is there a way that I can test it? I called SOA yesterday and explained my problem and how I went to a dealer about 1 1/2 years ago and how I have been working with USMB since to resolve the problem. I mentioned how the car is unsafe to drive, how the A/F (O2) sensor is out of spec. They said that there are no open recalls. They recommended that I go back to any Subaru dealer, have them diagnois it, then call SOA back with the dealers findings where at that point SOA would make a determination as to what they could do for me if anything. They gave me a a case number. I'm reluctant to do this becuase either way I'm sure I'll end up paying more. I've called around for the A/F (O2) sensor, the cheapest OEM I can find is about $140.00 on-line. So I think thats the way to go. How hard is it to replace this sensor? I've heard they can be seized in pretty good. Are there any tips and tricks? Do I need a special socket? I start my Adult Education Auto Class this week and was hoping to put the car on a lift to check it out and maybe replace it next week. Any other thoughts or ideas? Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

I can't say it enough, thank you so much for all your time, patients, expertise, ect... I love this forum. I read and researched the E/B connectors. Thanks to the link, 2000+FSM that was posted. Again, I love this forum. Just before dark I went and located them. It looks as though theres some type of boot over the connections. So I'll: 1) remove the boots. 2) disconnect the E/B connectors. 3) spray both male and female connectors with 70% isopropyl. Or should I use straight tap water first and then rinse with the isopropyl? 4) dry them with a hair dryer. Is the B83 Ground/Shield Junction by the ECU inside the car on the passenger side? What are we looking for here, the same as the E/B connectors, corrosion? Do I need to disconnect the 3 connectors at the ECU? I thought I had read rvac99's post where he had to but then thought that maybe he was doing more testing. WOW, what a coincidence with his post 38 and this one. I enjoyed reading all 7 pages. I appologize for not checking this then. I guess I didn't understand where these connectors were, but after researching the FSM things look clearer. Like I mentioned before, I'm no mechanic, nor am I electronic technician. I probaly won't be able to get to this until the weekend sometime but I will post my findings as soon as I can. Thanks again. 2000 Legacy

HI OB99W, Yes the reading I took at 1:13 PM on 9/18/10, Saturday were taken "immediately upon starting the car". The engine had not been running for 5 minutes at 1:13 PM. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday, I left the house at 7:30 AM and didn't get back til 7:30 PM. Anyways I just finished getting the following: TPS Voltages: per your 6 step instructions Black Lead: -0.01 to 0.02 Red Lead: 4.99 White Lead: 0.54 closed, 2.12 1/2 open, 3.80 wide open I then put everything back together and plugged in the 3130 and checked the Live Data without the engine running. The "MAP" was 29.2, the "TPS" was 0.3. I then started the car and within 2 minutes it was "CL". The "ECT" and "IAT" were the same, 68 degrees. The "TPS" was 0.0 at first, 5 and 10 minutes later it was still at 0.0. At 1500 RPM's it was 2.7 and at 2500 RPM's it was 6.6. The "MAP" was 19.1 at first, 5 minutes later it was 18.3 and 5 more minutes (10 min) it was 14.4. AT 1500 RPM's it was 8.8 and at 2500 RPM's it was the same, 8.8. The O2 S B1 (V) were pretty consistant; "S1" ranged from 3.796 at first to 3.728 and the "S2" was 0.005 at first to 0.840. The "STFT B1 (%)" started at 0, then -2.3, -3.1 and then -5.4. The LTFT B1 (%) was -12.5 all the time. I hope this helps, thanks again for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi, I see I posted my message twice last night, sorry about that. I re-did the Live Data this morning after driving to work (about 30 miles) and again driving home (30 miles). This is what I got: AT 5:45 AM Fuel Sys 1: CL Calc Load (%): 4.7 (9.2 at 2200 RPM's) ECT (F): 200 STFT (B1) %: -8.5 (.7 to 3.1 at 2200 RPM's) LTFT (B1) %: -11.7 (-10.9 at 2200 RPM's) MAP (inHg): 12.9 (8.3 at 2200 RPM's) RPM: 660 Veh Speed: 0 Spark Adv: 10, 9, 5, 7 (jumped around) IAT (F): 87 MAF: 0.510 TPS: 0 O2S B1 (S2 (V): 0.860 STFT B1 (S2) %: 0 OBDSup: OBD2 O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.752 EQ Ratio 11: 1.031 AT 9:30AM Fuel Sys 1: CL Calc Load (%): 5.0 (9.8 at 2000 RPM's) ECT (F): 194 (192 at 2000 RPM's) STFT (B1) %: -7.8 (-3.1 at 2200 RPM's) LTFT (B1) %: -11.7 (-10.9 at 2000 RPM's) MAP (inHg): 12.6 (8.2 at 20200 RPM's) RPM: 671 (2104) Veh Speed: 0 (0 at 2000 RPM's) Spark Adv: 10 (33 at 2000 RPM's) IAT (F): 86 (89 at 2000 RPM's) MAF: 0.543 (1.097 at 2000 RPM's) TPS: 0 (0 at 2000 RPM's) O2S B1 (S2 (V): 0.815 (0.730 at 2000 RPM's) STFT B1 (S2) %: 0 (0 at 2000 RPM's) OBDSup: OBD2 O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.8 to 3.663 (3.791 at 2000 RPM's) EQ Ratio 11: 1.001 to 0.986 (0.959 at 2000 RPM's) About four hours later I reread your reply and wasn't sure that what I did earlier was correct so I went out and plugged in the 3130 and started the car and took the following readings in 5 minute increments (1:13 PM, 1:18 PM & 1:23 PM): Fuel Sys 1: CL (I was surprised, I thought this would be OL when I first started the car) Calc Load (%): 7.4, 4.8 (9.8 at 2000 RPM's) ECT (F): 149, 186 (194 at 2000 RPM's) STFT (B1) %: -3.9, -7.8 (1.5 at 2200 RPM's) LTFT (B1) %: -11.7, -11.7 (-15.6 at 2000 RPM's) MAP (inHg): 17.4, 12.6 (8.2 at 20200 RPM's) RPM: 691, 712 (2085) Veh Speed: 0, 0 (0 at 2000 RPM's) Spark Adv: 1 to 11, 10 (33 at 2000 RPM's) IAT (F): 96, 100 (104 at 2000 RPM's) MAF: 0.773, 0.589 (1.15 at 2000 RPM's) TPS: 0, 0 (0 at 2000 RPM's) O2S B1 (S2 (V): 0.910, 0.885 (0.805 at 2000 RPM's) STFT B1 (S2) %: 0, 0 (0 at 2000 RPM's) OBDSup: OBD2 O2S B1 S1 (V): 3.763, 3.811 (3.786 at 2000 RPM's) EQ Ratio 11: 1.013, 0.999 (0.996 at 2000 RPM's) I missed the part about comparing the ECT and IAT early in the morning. If needed I can do it tomorrow morning. As for Fairtax4me's question in Post 105, yesterdays scanner results were from a cold start, the car hadn't been started or driven for 3 days. OB99W, I read your concerns in Post 106 about my results with regard to the ECT. I double checked the Freeze Frame Data, it was 132 in a Closed Loop. I also double checked my rough notes from last night and I had written the ECT results as 170, 168, 161 so I'm pretty sure I wrote it correctly. The other thing I noted today is that the scanner didn't show the last 2 codes (6 & 7 pending) this morning and this afternoon it showed 6. I don't know if that means anything. Sorry for the long write up, I put my results in a excel spread sheet and tried to attach it and cut and paste but niether worked for me. Oh well, thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W, Fairtax4me, DaveT and everyone else who has helped me with this problem, I really do appreciate everyones efforts and for not quitting on my problem. I'm so excited, I just recieved my Innova Equus 3130 and these are the results: Before starting the car I plugged in the 3130 and it read as follows: 1/7 codes, "G" in the upper right corner, "EVA" blinking, Freeze Frame is highlighted. !st code: PO304, Freeze Frame Data: - Fuel Sys 1: "CL" - Calc Load %: "7.8" - ECT (F): "132" - STFT B1 (%): "-14.8" - LTFT B1 (%): "-1.5" - MAP (inHg): "18.8" - Eng RPM: "772" - Veh Speed (MPH): "0" 2nd code: PO302 3rd code: PO303 4th code: PO301 5th code: PO113 6th code: PO302 with "Pending" blinking 7th code: PO304 with "Pending" blinking After I read and documented the above, I started the car and pressed the "LD", Live Data button and took the car around the block, 1 mile and got the following results: Live Data: - Fuel Sys 1: "OL" - Calc Load %: "0" - ECT (F): "170", however it did drop after as I was documenting. - STFT B1 (%): "0" - LTFT B1 (%): "-10.9" - MAP (inHg): "29.2" - Eng RPM: "0" - Veh Speed (MPH): "0" - Spark Adv: "10" - IAT (F): "68 degrees" - MAF (1 lb/min): "0" - TPS (%): "0.3" - O2S B1 S2 (V): "0.920" - STFT B1 S2 (%): "0" - OBD Sup OBD2 - O2SB1 S (V): "3.796" - EQ Ratio 11: "0.999" Now I'm not sure that I did things correctly since the 3130 is new to me and I'm unfamiliar with it. I've tried to read the manual to understand it better, however I'm ashamed to say I hate to read manuals, they seem confusing. I hope that the above results help to solve the mystery, please let me know what your thoughts and suggestions are. I was wondering if I should clear the codes and start fresh (no codes) or if I should have driven the car further/longer distance but I thought I had read that Live Data was best captured when the problem is more prevalent. I think that it's important to note that the car stalled around the block every time I pushed in the clutch to either stop or downshift. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W, Fairtax4me, DaveT and everyone else who has helped me with this problem, I really do appreciate everyones efforts and for not quitting on my problem. I'm so excited, I just recieved my Innova Equus 3130 and these are the results: Before starting the car I plugged in the 3130 and it read as follows: 1/7 codes, "G" in the upper right corner, "EVA" blinking, Freeze Frame is highlighted. !st code: PO304, Freeze Frame Data: - Fuel Sys 1: "CL" - Calc Load %: "7.8" - ECT (F): "132" - STFT B1 (%): "-14.8" - LTFT B1 (%): "-1.5" - MAP (inHg): "18.8" - Eng RPM: "772" - Veh Speed (MPH): "0" 2nd code: PO302 3rd code: PO303 4th code: PO301 5th code: PO113 6th code: PO302 with "Pending" blinking 7th code: PO304 with "Pending" blinking After I read and documented the above, I started the car and pressed the "LD", Live Data button and took the car around the block, 1 mile and got the following results: Live Data: - Fuel Sys 1: "OL" - Calc Load %: "0" - ECT (F): "170", however it did drop after as I was documenting. - STFT B1 (%): "0" - LTFT B1 (%): "-10.9" - MAP (inHg): "29.2" - Eng RPM: "0" - Veh Speed (MPH): "0" - Spark Adv: "10" - IAT (F): "68 degrees" - MAF (1 lb/min): "0" - TPS (%): "0.3" - O2S B1 S2 (V): "0.920" - STFT B1 S2 (%): "0" - OBD Sup OBD2 - O2SB1 S (V): "3.796" - EQ Ratio 11: "0.999" Now I'm not sure that I did things correctly since the 3130 is new to me and I'm unfamiliar with it. I've tried to read the manual to understand it better, however I'm ashamed to say I hate to read manuals, they seem confusing. I hope that the above results help to solve the mystery, please let me know what your thoughts and suggestions are. I was wondering if I should clear the codes and start fresh (no codes) or if I should have driven the car further/longer distance but I thought I had read that Live Data was best captured when the problem is more prevalent. I think that it's important to note that the car stalled around the block every time I pushed in the clutch to either stop or downshift. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

You're right, thats exactly what happened. I had the air filter housing off and unplugged the air intake sensor but didn't run the car. Thanks again. I'll be in touch once I get the Innova 3130.

Is the Air Intake Temperature Sensor the small plug in type connection on the Air Filter Housing? If so I did unplug it to clean the IACV. I've taken that apart before and don't remember seeing a code. As far as I can remember this is the first time I see a PO113. Anyways I ordered the Innova 3130 last night and hope to have by the weekend. Hopefully like you had mentioned it will get us what we need and tell us more about the Air Intake Sensor, O2 Sensor, etc.... Thanks again, I'll keep you posted.

I drove the car home from work today and it does seem to run/idle better once it has been warmed up, but it still stalls initially, first 15 minutes or so. A friend let me borrow a Innova 0303, it looks as though it tells you that there is Freeze Frame Data available but won't give it to you. it looks as though I'll have to get the Innova 3130. Anyways his code reader gave me the following 7 codes in this order PO304, PO302, PO303, PO301, PO113 (a new one which I wonder if that was caused by spraying the throttle body & air intake cleaner into the IACV), PO301 again and PO304 again. I used my Actron code reader and got the same thing but not in the same order; 301, 302, 303, 304, 113, 301 Pd and 304 Pd. Not sure what the Pd is, Pending maybe and I'm not sure if the order makes a difference. I checked the PVC Hoses (each side of the Air Filter Housing and the Crankcase Ventilation Hose, the Blow By Gas hose and the "Y" shaped fitting). They didn't seem too bad, the "Y" shaped fitting had some tar like residue ( I guess Sludge deposits) in there but it wasn't clogged, I wiped it out with a rag. As for the hoses, I could'nt really see through them but was able to pass a tie wrap through all of them with no trouble. The hoses them selves have small cracks on the ends but thats it. I'd say if and when we fix the main problem I should probally replace them. I also removed the PVC itself, it seemed fine, I could hear/feel like there were little ball bearings inside of it moving freely. I printed out the procedure for PO506 and will study it for the time being. I will also plan on ordering the Innova 3130. Thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and everyone else out there, As far as gas mileage goes, I don't know that we ever got 26 MPG. However it could be that the O2 Sensor has been bad for a while. I drove the car to work this morning, about 25 miles, it stalled the first few times but then seemed to idle better later on or the closer I got to work. Maybe the cleaner needed to work through the system. I'll see if it's any better this afternoon and let you know. When I pulled the vacuum hose off the FPR I did not see any difference in the way the engine ran or idled. I'm not sure if the tubing was checked/cleaned on the PVC, I'll do so tonight when I get home from work. What would you use to clean it? I'll try and look up the procedure for PO506 tonight to see what it says. At the same time I think I'll go ahead and invest in the scan too. It will be a handy thing to have. Thank you. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W, Fairtax4me and anyone interested, I apologize for not responding sooner but today was the first day I was able to get to your reccomendations. Thanks again for everything. This is what I diid this afternoon: 1) Checked the gas mileage: 19.6 mpg around town/back roads, this also includes the idling in the driveway last weekend checking the vacuum. Yesterday and today I put a little over a 100 miles on it, all highway and checked the mileage and got 22.8 mpg. 2) I then pulled the vacuum hose off the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) before stating the car, no "gas drips" and there was a very faint smell if any of fuel vapors. I then started the car with the hose removed and still didn't see any gas drips. The hose itself didn't seem too bad, a small crack about 3/16" long, maybe caused by me when I removed it off the FPR so I replaced the hose anyway. 3) I drove the car about 5 miles pulled into a parking lot and left it running, popped the hood and removed the oil filler cap, I felt some pressure but couldn't tell if it was sucking or blowing. I put a napkin to see if it got drawn in but it didn't. I then left the filler gap off and then removed the oil dip stick, pretty much the same as the filler cap. I then put the filler cap back on, it seemed to draw in but it still didn't seem to make much difference as far as pressure goes. Removing the filler cap and dip stick didn't seem to affect the idle. I then drove about 50 miles and rechecked this test, same results. 4) I then cleaned the Idlle Air Control Valve (IACV) as you suggested per porcupine73's post. I purcased "Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner", removed the Air filter housing and disconned the hoses/sensor from it. With a mirror I looked for the port to the Air Intake port expecting to see a round hole, it was elongated/oval shaped and it was before the throttle body plate. With the engine idling I squirted/sprayed the cleaner in. The car stalled. I contined about 3 dozen times. The times it stalled, I restarted it and continued until I finished. I then let the car sit a for about 3.5 hours and took into town about 2 miles, it seemed to be the same. I then drove it about 10 miles to see if it the cleaner needed to be worked in. It seem to idle a little bit better but it still stalled on ocassion. As for Fairtax4me's earlier question as to when the car stops stalling. It seems to stall less after the car has run for about 15 minutes. However I have driven it for a 1/2 hour and had it stall. I guess I'd have say the longer the car runs the less it stalls. I think I've done everthing you've suggested and answered all your questions. Please review at your earliest convenience and let me know what you think. Thanks. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W and Faitax4me, You guys were busy last night, thanks. I'll try to answer your questions/comments in the order they were asked in Posts #84 thru #88; 1) The fuel pressure has not been checked yet. 2) The fuel pressure regulator has not been checked yet either. 3) You are correct, the car tends to stall more when its cold, usually 10-15 minutes and sometimes longer. Also on occasion it will be even longer. 4) I'd be more than happy to humor you OB99W by removing the oil filler cap. It may not be for a few days or maybe even this weekend, but I'll warm the car, remove the cap and see if I feel a slight vacuum or pressure. Did you want me to remove the dip stick and see if I feel the pressure there? 5) I have been checking the fuerl mileage periodically, it seems to be OK however it does vary from 18-21 mpg. I'm in the process of monitoring now and let you know what I get, again maybe this weekend. 6) Yes, that burnt smell is there everytime I drive the car, it sometimes reminds me of a skunk that has sprayed. 7) Changing the fuel filter again has been on my mind for a long time. I guess the reason why I haven't done it yet is becuase one its kind of a pain having the relieve the fuel pressure underneath the dash, although I've talked to some people who don't bother. They say to let the car sit a while and then just disconnect the filter. Since I am inexperienced I tend to follow the book (Haynes). My other thought was that if the fuel filter was clogged wouldn't the car run crappy all the time? I think my plan will be to clean the IACV with Throttle Body Cleaner, humor OB99W by removing the Oil filler cap and recheck the gas mileage this coming weekend or sooner if I can. Then I'll post my findings for you to diagnois. I also think that I'm going to order the Innova Scan Tool, I can't mak up my mind as to get the 3130, 3140 or 3160. I hate to run into the problem I have now with my Actron which was cheaper but had I known about Live Data and Freeze Frame Data I would have spent the money at that time. Oh well live and learn. Thanks again for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W, Fairtax4me and anyone else interested, I really appreciate all your time and effort, thank you. I read your post (80 & 81) this morning at work with my morning coffee and was wondering if I did something wrong yesterday. I took the subie with me today to work and couldn't wait to get home and recheck yesterdays efforts. I drove the car about 20 miles/30 minutes about, pulled the car into the driveway and left it running. I popped the hood, got a pair of pliers out and disconnected the vacuum hose for the brake booster at the intake. Again like I said yesterday the car seemed to idle/run smoother, it didn't stall, the RPM's kicked up to about 1100. I let the car idle for 5 minutes and then reconnected the vacuum hose, the car stalled. I then restarted it and it idled at about 600 RPM's. I then disconnected the hose again, same results. I rechecked my $370.00 bill from the dealer and it says that they "installed idle air control motor, stalled on roadtest", and from what I remember the Service Advisor had said it would be about $250.00. That was after they finished replacing the fuel injectors for $600.00. I assumed that the dealer would use OEM parts. But who knows what they really did and with what, I could have misunderstood him too. I don't know if I mentioned it or not or if its important, but I did replace the "Knock Sensor" on 11/26/06 at 144,144 miles. I used a NAPA sensor. I read and printed "porcupine73's" post on 3/22/08, 7:59 AM and paid special attention to his point no. 3. Sounds easy enough and cheap enough, I just need to get some "Throttle Body Cleaner" and some time. I may not be able to get to it until Sunday. I also read your last sentance; "read both pages, especially the last one, which gives the resolution for that particular owner's problem". I did have that P0133 code twice back in 2008. Front O2 Oxygen Air Flow Sensor, is there a way we can test this before I buy it for $139.00 at subarupartsforyou.com? Or should I try an aftermarket/used? Or just go for it if cleaning the IACV doesn't work? Again thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Thanks FairTax4Me and OB99W for responding so soon. You are correct OB99W, the engine seemed to idle more cosistant and steadier with the brake booster hose disconected at the intake manifold, however when I put my finger/rag over the port it stumbled and almost stalled but didn't. It then seemed to correct itself and the vacuum went back to 18-19. Please note that the needle on the gauge seemed to bounce at normal conditions or when the vacuum wasn't obstructed or when I didn't mess with the brake booster hose. When I say bounce I mean that it was within a range of 0.5, I assume this is becuase of the rough idle. Thanks again. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W, Mr. Carb and anyone else who can help, I finally had a little time when I could recheck the Vacuum Readings you suggested OB99W. In doing so I first checked the check engine light, at first it was just P0301 but when I finished I had all four cylinder misfires. 1) First I warmed up the car, about 15 minutes. 2) Then disconnected the hose at the intake manifold from the brake booster, it read 18-18.5. 3) Tried the "Air By-Pass Hose" on the Throttle Body and got nothing. I thought that this is what DaveT and I had done back in March. Reconnected it. 4) Tried the smaller vacuum hose on top of the intake manifold, just to the right of the throttle body/center of it (looking into the engine compartment) and got 18-19 with it removed from the intake. When the fan kicked in it dropped to 18-17.5. Note, I just let the other end of the hose hang. 5) With the brake booster hose off at the manifold and taped with the gauge still at the throttle body I got 18-18.5. When I took the tape off the engine seem to run smoother and steady and the gauge seemed steadier at 18. 6) Reconnected the brake booster hose. 7) I then connected a tee to the throttle body connection port, the gauge and the other end of the hose that was hanging in "4)" above and got 19-19.5 at first and then dropped to 18.5. 8) I took the brake booster off and the engine ran smoother and the needle on the gauge was steady at 19 and dropped to 18 with the fan on. 9) Plugged the brake booster hose a the maniflod with a rag an my finger, the gauge dropped below 15 and stumbled, almost stalled but slowly it built up to and held at about 18-18.5. 10) I then took a piece of hose to try and listen for hissing, couldn't find anything consitant. Sorry for the long story, its just that I'm not too sure about what I'm doing. But based on what I see I think the vacuum is fine although I'm not 100% sure. I have to appologize to Mr. Carb, I didn't see your picture until today. Apparently my work doesn't allow those to be posted however going online at home I saw it as clear as day along with OB99W's. I haven't pursued the fuel end of it yet. It seems like a lot of work. Also I was wondering if it were a fuel issue wouldn't the car run crappy all the time? Once on the highway and no shifting/clutching is involved the car runs great and seems like it would go forever. This leads to my next quetion: Would the scan tool pick up this information? I checked my OBII tool, its a "Actron CP9135". I don't think it does "Freeze Frame Data" or "Live Data". OB99W said he uses "Innova Equus", which model? I've done some research and see I could get the "3130" for $135.00, "3140" for $189.00 and the "3160" for $200.00 from Amazon.com. Would the "3130" be good enough for my abilities or would the extra $50-$70 be worth it in the end? I wouldn't mind spending the money if I know that this tool will be useful down the road, I was hoping that when I bought my Actron that it would be suffient enough. I hate to bother DaveT, he has a lot going on as I'm sure you guys do as well. Well, thanks for everything. 2000 Legacy

Hi OB99W, I had a chance to re-read your response, thanks for taking the time to do so. In doing so I tried to understand everything. Intake Vacuum Reading: 1. What should it be? Legacy 777 said 19 on 3/30/10. 2. In checking the diaphragm on the brake booster, do I disconnect the hose at the intake manifold, plug it with tape and leave the hose connected at the brake booster and let it hang, then start the car and let it idle? When we had checked the vacuum reading back in March I believe that we checked it at the throttle body, was that correct or should we have used the intake/brake booster? Intake Air Temperature Sensor: 1. It hasn’t been changed or checked as far as I know. Scan Tool (or computer with appropriate software) used in real time (live): 1. Is there a place where I can rent one or how expensive are they? I tried Advanced Auto and they said that they have the Actron OBII code reader. 2. How does it work? I imagine that it plugs into the OBII port. 3. How long does it take to do (time wise) or how many miles do you need to drive to capture the necessary data? 4. Will it give the history/details on everything (all sensors)? 5. What are we looking for; a. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? b. Intake Air Temperature Sensor? c. Would it tell us of any Vacuum Leaks? Anther thought: In trying to understand everything I was poking around the 2000 FSM and found on page “EN(H4)-144”, DTC P0133 where it said “DTC Detecting Condition: Two consecutive cycles with fault”. Could this be the problem (front O2 Sensor)? In reviewing my history I noticed that I had this code, P0133 two times, once on 1/29/08 with 172,929 miles and on 5/7/08 with 178,225 miles. I cleared the code both times and haven’t seen it since. On 3/19/08 at 176,020 miles I replaced the Muffler Pipe and Mid Pipe. Again, thanks for everything Mr. Carb, Thanks for chiming in; I’ll add your suggestions to the list of things to check. I didn’t see the picture of the part that failed on your fuel pump. 2000 Legacy

HI OB99W, Thanks for the effort, I really appreciate all your time. I don't mean to give you something to obsess over. I'm a little disappointed, I was hoping that it was the Neutral Safety Switch or the VSS. Oh well the saga continues. Let me look over and reread your response to see if I can understand it better. As I mentioned before I am not a mechanic so some of it is greek to me. I'm sure I'll have questions. I'll try to post something during the week, it will probally be later on. Thanks again. 2000 Legacy

Good morning, I took the voltage readings as you mentioned; reconnected the ECU & negative battery, set my meter to DCV @ 20, turned on the ignition (without starting) and backprobed pin #26 on B135 two times and got the following results: in Neutral: 11.11 the fisrt time and 11.14 the second time in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th gears it always ended with 0.01 both times the first number (I'm not sure if it has meaning) inbetween shifting was anywheres from around 6, 2, 9, 2, & 6 respectively. Thanks 2000 Legacy