spazomatic

I used Isuzu pickup rims. But they do stick out and would not work at stock height. Since I'm at stock height, I had Dr. Sawsall adjust the fenders. 3" from the diameter of the front, and 1.5" from the rear. Now I can run 205x75-14s with no rub. mines an 84 GL, but the same principles apply.

Gotta love those easy fixes. The fans will come on with the heat selector on defrost, too.

Oh how I hate rodents in cars. On an ea81 car, the spot they can gain access through, are the round holes in the front inner fenders, towards the rear. I'm pretty sure the holes are cowl drains. Anyways, on mine I used a few sheet metal screws to affix some expanded metal (heavy duty metal screen). Also, if your shifter boot has any holes, they'll jump in through that, too. Mine was, so I attached expanded metal over the opening, beneath the rubber boot. Leave sharp edges pointed down, on the areas that need to be removed, to clear the shifters movement. Unfortunately, I did that after I had had to completely dismantle the interior to R&R the heater/ac plenum, fan and heater core, and ac evaporator. You fellas running around with old pee and poo soaked rodent nests, and even dead rodents within your heater aren't doing your driving comfort or health any favors! It's a pain, but the best option, if you mean to keep your car; tear it all out, clean all the pieces thoroughly. On the heat and/or AC coils, spray with bleach and really blow them out well. Once you're done, your car will smell much nicer, you won't have debris fly at you when the air is on, and chances are, your heat and AC will work better as well.

Im going to suggest tightening the axle nut. I chased a similar problem in my 84, and tightening the nut on the end of the axle (runs through the hub) fixed it.

Looks identical to mine! You have good taste! Do you know its maintenance history? How many miles on the clock?

Find the power wire for your fuel pump. Plumb in a switch and locate it somewhere hidden. (I like it up under the dashboard) I keep my car dented, dirty, with some rust. It wont get stolen

Heres mine. Ive posted these before, but whatever. I cut 1.5" from the rear, and 3" from the front using just a sawzall. Measured carefully and drew it out so it would still look somewhat normal, and not like somebody took a sawzall to it. The rear has several layers, so i riveted them back together after the cut. These pics are with 195-75-14 BFGs. Its now sitting on 205-75-14s, and i had to massage with a BFG, the reinforcement rib that runs through the front fenderwell to fit those. And no lift!

You guys've been busy! I finally got around to fixin my electrical woes after having all of the dash/HVAC out. Blinkers didnt work still, after i had it all together. Thought it was a bad turn signal switch. Nope. Wasnt getting power to the yellow wire that powers the blinkers. (Hazards worked fine) Dug around for a bit without tearing it all apart very far again. Said nuts to it, and soldered a wire on in the signal switch, giving the yellow wire power, stolen from the hazard circuit. Bingo! Cleaned the carpet, installed my seats, double checked to make sure all my I's were dotted and T's crossed. Took her for a spin! Woohoo! Alls well. It hasnt left my driveway since maybe last august. It finally came up as a priority to get it finished, as my old beater Dodge truck busted something in the front axle....and i needed the spot in front of the garage that the subie was in. Plus, i was getting tired of having a derelict automobile just sittin there.

Well thank ya much for that, but its one of the late EA81s. .

Thanks bud, i went and looked at car-part.com, and didnt have any luck there either. I appreciate your response though. Looks like im scrounging in junkyards again! Oh well, the weather for it is beautiful! And who knows what treasures I'll find

Oh whoops. I missed that key part

Wy not just leave them in? On mine, i removed the threaded pipe from the spacer, then cut them to just 2" long, heated the end, hammered the end flat, and welded them shut, and reinstalled into the spacer. Now the spacer is just acting as an adapter between the pipe and the head.

Where do you all recommend I buy a turn signal switch? Maybe im just google-illiterate, but i cant seem to find a new one on this newfangled interweb thingy. I looked on rockauto, and they dont seem to have any. I checked the sites for brick and mortar local parts houses (autozone, napa, etc) and came up with zilch. And i refuse to try partsgeek...they hosed me on parts and it was never resolved. They took my money and i didnt get my parts. If any of you have a line on a new part, please chime in! Otherwise i'll be scavenging at junkyards.

I set timing by ear anyway. Advanced as much as it will take without causing detonation. If i do throw a light on it, its just for curiosity sake.

Good deal, glad you got it running right

I respect japanese history and culture. Once "western" ideas were brought to their attention, they ran with it and made better what the europeans had begun. That being said; Do you think patriotism is synonymous with being a redneck?

No not yet. Other priorities have popped up, and the ol' GL got set on the back burner again. Plus, it has several feet of snow piled around it. Soon though!

Instead of pulling them off, throw a self tapping sheetmetal screw in every 6-8" across the sides and bottom and ditch the clips. I run a lot of washboard roads, and thats the only thing that shuts them up.

Id rather buy one with a whole ton of miles, but has been taken care of.....than one with lower miles that shows signs of being whupped on.

Too much fuel supply isnt going to flood it when its off though. Unless its so bad that the carb is flooded all the time, on or off. Id get a power valve too.

No, install it in the supply line.

Outside of the timing belt, pulleys, water pump, etc that should be replaced...id betcha the head gaskets are weeping too. I wouldnt consider any of that to be a deal breaker; but could be used as leverage to get the seller to drop the price a bit more, too. Other guys will probably chime in....i dont know of any other specific quirks to watch out for. My baja's an '06, and my wife loves it. (I wish it was faster)

The return line fitting for a stock carb will work on the weber. Mine was much happier once i added that and a regulator. That wont solve the problem of it draining though.

Sounds like its running lean. Presuming it was tuned correctly for denver altitude...its definitely got too small of jets. Find out the sizes you have in it now, and then buy yourself an assortment of sizes so you can dial it in to your OCD heart's content. Im the same way...tinker till its juuust right. Makes for a fine running machine, but it can also be a time consuming PIA

Ive used the Permatex rust catalyst stuff, and im actually pretty impressed with it. It doesnt remove it, per se. You need to make sure that any and all scale rust is removed, and that the surface is degreased. I have spots that i treated a decade ago, with the intention of topcoating.....still havent layed any paint down, and the treated area still looks identical to what it back then.