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Posts posted by spazomatic
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You dont like that bumper? I think itd look pretty badass on my s10
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Straight pulls they do okay, but the stock points dont much care for lateral pressure. Oh, i know. And straight pulls arent always possible, so yeah. Good idea torxxx!
After that, tie the two sides together, and build a good sturdy winch mount.
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With line locks, you still have to step on the brake to apply pressure to the brakes. Then enage the lock to hold whichever wheels ya want.
I think itd be pretty easy to have a handbrake for each corner, using just junkyard parts. (Well, except for maybe a fabricated bracket for the mounting of the handles)
That's my theory, but i havent done it yet, so i dunno. One of these days!
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A lot of cars don't NEED a catalytic converter to meet tailpipe emissions testing standards for their respective years (for example, Honda's CVCC engines were cleaner without a cat than most engines that had one), but they were federally mandated for all cars in 1983 regardless of an engine's exhaust stream content. If your car were tested to CARB and/or modern standards, it would mostly likely fail miserably. That being said, any car over 25 years of age is considered an antique and as such need not conform to federal NHTSA or EPA standards (though they may need to comply with state standards, especially in CA), so I'm not worried about restoring my XT's stock system from the aftermarket catless 2.5" turbo-back system installed before I bought it.
Really, gutting a cat is really only a good alternative if yours is bad and a replacement is unobtainable or unreasonably overpriced (as many things tend to be for these cars, sadly). You may see a small improvement from doing so, carb'd or FI'd, especially on mid-80s engines that weren't originally designed for them. You definitely don't want to do it on a more modern car with a post-cat O2 sensor because you'll screw up your AFRs. Also, reducing the cat-induced backpressure on a turbo'd system can cause boost creep and/or overspool your turbo, so you may want to be careful if you're running with boost.
Actually, '75 and newer are required to have cats, nationwide.
Mine was in fact, going bad. Which is why i went to the trouble of gutting it.
And it did pass colorado emissions standards, with a weber and without a cat. Granted, it took me 5 tries....but finally i had the weber set to pass....just baaarely it passed! And then i bumped the jets up a size afterwards, cuz it was running shitty, and way too lean.
Just sayin...
I agree that cats are for the most part, a good idea. The honeycomb design of modern cats barely restricts flow, if at all. And they do help burn off crappy emissions, so....
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Thats pretty sweet! Nice welds too
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I may be wrong, but i recall reading here that '03 was the shortest of the bunch. From '04 to '06 they were taller
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Overadvanced ignition timing results in too high temps leaving a spot hot enough to ignite the fuel w/o a spark.You create an unintentional glow plug.
Hmmm, maybe. If the timing were the issue here, i think thered be other driveability problems as well. Like "pinging" at least. And with mine at least, it does not sound like dieseling. I kinda figured it was 12v volts somehow finding its way to the coil for a second after the key was off.
Regardless, i think its a non-issue.
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Somebody explain this to me please...not trying to be a wiseass. ignition timing is just that, the timing of the spark. So how would advanced ignition timing cause it to continue to run once the key is off? Key off=no spark anyway, so ignition timing is irrelevent
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Wow glad you said something, I was about to chime in on it.
For future reference, drilling rotors yourself is a bad idea.
....looks like i chimed in anyway
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My weber was loading up with too much fuel all the time, so I did put on an adjustable regulator. I plumbed in the return line fitting from the hitachi too, so (theoretically) the pump won't see more pressure than it needs to. I figured, the hose is there, the fitting is there, so why not.
Mine does the same thing too, running on after the key is off. Only occasionally, and only for a second or two at the most. Not sure why it does it exactly, but to my ear it sure doesnt sound like dieseling. Its like its still getting spark for a couple extra revolutions. I dont worry about it. Anyways...
As to the rough restart; does it smell like gas? Could just be flooded. Mine does that still every now and again. Especially if I was driving it like its stolen before i shut it off. I dont worry about it.
Good luck!
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You could do it like sammy hagar....one foot on the brake, and one on the gas, yeah!
Jk. I try to explain to people how gasoline burners are most efficient at WOT, and they give me blank stares like im crazy.
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I gutted the cat on my 84. It only had one at the "Y". It was harder than most....usually on most cars you can just take a rod and knock out the catalyst, but no not on mine! I ended up cutting a 4x4 hole in the top with a torch (use a fan to keep the smoke away from ya) pried, picked and dug the wire mesh and catalyst out, then welded a patch on top. It is just a tad louder, but i did gain some extra power. At least, thats what my seat of the pants-dyno tells me. No backfiring....
But my motor is completely de-emissioned, running a weber and turbo muffler. It passed emissions even! And gets around 26mpg.
Id say though, that unless you have evidence that it is plugged, it may not be worth the effort
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Its good to know that its meant to do what ive been doing to it, ya know?
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It was asked already...what about your distributor? Where's your timing set? Wheres the vacuum advance plugged in?
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I put seats from a late 90s legacy into my 84. Took a little bit of welding and redrilling of holes, but it was pretty easy.
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I have those on my GL, with no lift. I did sawzall 3" from the front, and 1.5" from the rear...but my wheels are from an isuzu, which makes them stick out about 1.5" more than stock. With the proper offset wheels, i dont think youd need to cut at all for that size.
I also had to cut to insure id have room to run tire chains...
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DOOR CHIME??? THAT WORKS?? I just bought a 83 4xWGN.and the chime sounds like it wants to be Shot-{Put out of it"s Misery}
Yup, mine works great! I only hear it when the deck lid's open. All my door switches are kaput.
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My 06 baja has slightly smelled like coolant ever since i bought it with 36k miles on it. The lower side of the drivers side head looks like it may be weeping a bit. Meh, im not too worried. It has 90k-ish miles on it now, it hasnt gotten any worse, so i figure i'll address the issue when the timing belt comes due for service.
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For my baja i got a set of '02 outback 16" rims, and mounted a set of hankook I-pikes on them. I have never tried the winter tires you asked about, but i highly recommend the hankooks
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My wife grounded me from buying anything with an engine and tires. Except for my baja, all of my cars could classify as "beaters". I cant help myself...find a neglected ride for dirt cheap and tell myself, Oh i can fix that!
I love cars with character, and that you dont see very often. My list of beaters includes; I have a 74 bronco, my 84 GL, an 87 Dodge w250, a 96 s-10 blazer, and a 70 mustang mach1 project.
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I think the door switches are a pretty common failure. You could verify real quick by opening the doors while the keys in the ignition. If it doesnt chime, that door switch is bad (unless your chime is also busted)
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I live out in the woods, so been there, done that. I ended up capping the air inlet with a piece of expanded metal. Hasnt happened since!
But before i resorted to that...Id just set out a couple of victor spring traps on the floor while i wasnt driving it. Caught a couple. Just be sure to check it often so they dont get funky
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Holy crap thats in nice shape. What are they asking for it? I have no idea what itd be worth. $2000? My guesses are always way off.
I paid $300 for mine, but it has a bit more.....character!
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Yeah i bet you do! Thats a nice ride man. I dont think you could keep up with my GL offroad, though:brow:
weber carb on an ea81 in a subaru standard!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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