spazomatic

I use CRC brake clean on anything brake related, and firearms. works great! I dont understand why you guys wouldnt bother to clean that oil off. a contaminated set of pads are not going to work as well as a set that dont have oil in them. period. heat dissipation is the name of the game in braking, and oil on your pads can only hurt. locking them up doesnt generate much heat, but hard stops from 80mph do! word to the wise, dont be lazy, clean your rotors.

Mine broke within the first week after i bought it. Got 2 from a junkyard so i have spare too

vacuum leak? with those symptoms, with 2 different carbs, that's what id be lookin for

Im not afraid of a little trimming. Im kinda surprised how many people here lift, but dont trim! With the shape of the fenders, trimming will allow a bigger tire than a lift would. Aw well I know the arent a lot of bajas around...but its basically an outback, right? I did look on scoobytruck too, but i was hoping for maybe a more consistent answer. Some say yes, some say no. Anyways, thanks!

Well thanks guys for all the responses! Im still not sure what size ill end up using...i think im going to use the 215/65-16s...no trimming required, speedo will remain about the same, and wont hurt the already shtty gearing. Carry on:burnout:

Im in colorado, and run between 6500 and 9000 ft daily. In the weber on my '84s 1.8, the primary jet's a 25, and the secondary is a 27. Im getting around 26 mpg, and it runs stronger than with the stock carb ever did. Im not sure where my timing's at...i set it by ear and never put a light on it.

I just found a set of Falken High Country ATs in a 215/70-16 online. They are 27.9" OD, vs the 26.6 stock OD. Waddaya think?

Im going to need tires soon, and am trying to find an all terrain tire for my baja. Unfortunately, in the stock size (225x60-16) there is nothing out there! I can get BFG ATs in a 225/70-16, but they're almost 2" bigger, and im not sure if theyll fit. I dont have a lift, and the wife wont let me trim the lower edge of the front fenders. So i guess what im really asking is....what are you guys running for ATs on these chassis with no lift?

yeah probably? I plugged up my emissions stuff, and repaired my exhaust at the same time, so I don't know which fixed it.

Well, drovenit to work today and all seemed fine. Get back to it this afternoon, and that seal is leaking again. Im goin junkyard shopping this afternoon!

I replaced both axle seals on the trans of my 84, new motor and trans mounts, new accessory belts, and repaired the shift shaft seal. Nobody, but nobody makes that seal! So, i removed it, cleaned it real well, and filled the hollow parts of the seal with rtv. Then i slipped an o-ring onto the shift shaft, and set the seal on over the top of it. Have driven it 100 miles or so since then, and it's still dry! I've been havin a problem with 3rd gear grinding and occasionally kickin itself out of gear....after draining the oil and seeing the bits'n'pieces of metal that were in there; now i know why! Time to start shopping for a 5 speed

Putting a weber on is one of my favorite mods to this thing. Cold weather, hot weather, whatever, it fires right up. I've gotten really good at giving the engine only as much throttle as the engine is demading, so my mileage is even better than with the old crapped out stocker. 26mpg, mix of town, and highway, some offroading.

You have filters on both valve covers? One of them needs to be hooked up to vacuum and a PCV valve. On mine, the drivers side is to the PCV, and the passenger side is vented in the air cleaner. Do you still have your emissions doodads hooked up? If so, air being added to your exhaust ismprobably causing the backfire (my best guess). I've read that if you have an exhaust leak, they'll backfire too. My nasty backfire was emissions equipment related though.

stock? or weber?

holy crap, you ran into a good one.

mine's an 84, so I'm not sure what all differences there are. keep the EGR, and keep the charcoal can. I'd keep the cats too, though mine is gutted. somebody will chime in with specifics I'm sure

that's what I thought, but then they listed the tranms mount again seperately... so that threw me off. thanks!

Howdy all, so I went to Rockauto.com to buy motor and trans mounts (and other things) for my '84 GL. but with the motor mounts, it was listing fronts and rears, as well as trans mounts. but the mounts are left and right, so wtf? can an enlightened master of the 'ru please clear this up for me?

I've been drivin it a lot lately, and it's starting to need some more TLC. need new trans and motor mounts (it pops out of 3rd if I let off the gas suddenly), intake gaskets (leaking coolant from one side) and trans axle seals, as well as the seal where the shifter goes in back.

Thought I'd pull this thread out of the weeds... Here's my 74. she is badass and lotsa fun. but at 8-10 mpg, I don't drive it a whole helluva lot. it does have a 6 point cage in it, too

how did you deal with the misalignment where the lower control arm meets the crossmember?

I'm thinking; not a whole lot. having longer arms does help travel, but the limiting factor on our scoobys are the struts. If somebody made some long travel struts, mods like this would be a nice compliment to them

I love my weber. driveability is so much better, and it does have more low RPM torque. I average around 25-26 mpg, with mixed in town, highway and back country road driving. I expected to see more power in the upper RPMs, but no. I even passed emissions with it!

I have the same problem with my baja. approach, and especially the departure angles are just terrible. my bumpers are all rashed up. I've thought about just deleting them altogether. then just welding up some simple 2" tubing into bumpers

I can't remember the color...you need a wire that is hot with the ignition on only