spazomatic

I think a small 4v with the secondaries disconnected (rendering it just a small 2V) would work better than that 2v. reason being, the venturis on the 2v are larger than the primary venturis on the 4v. thus, making for a better vacuum signal to the carb at lower RPMs, which will result in better driveability. I've toyed with this idea too. either using a small 390cfm 4V (they're made for certain classes of oval track racing) or an old autolite/motorcraft 2v (they rock off road) I think though, that the weber is definitely a better fit overall and shouldn't be as time consuming to swap (I'll find out...weber's in the mail!)

Replaced the disintegrated pipe between the Y and the muffler:banana: aaaah quiet:) I'm about to put a bullet in the carburetor though. my wife/accountant/warden, OK'd the purchase of a weber!

besides my 84GL and '06 baja... I've got (2) 1970 mustang projects (both are basket cases) a 1974 Bronco (4 wheel disk, 351cleveland, C4, 32s, and quite ugly) a 1996 S-10 Blazer (243k miles, mostly stock, rear lok-right) and finally a 1987 Dodge w-250 (meyer plow, 360cid, np435, dana 60s, rear's welded, rear winch, lots and lots of character)

my 84 GL (aka Krusty) gets driven probably 1-2 times a week. my Baja moves every day. my other cars get driven at random...and 2 mustangs that are rodents' section8 housing. I know mothballs work...but smell terrible. cedar works okayish, but my wife's allergic...so I just keep huntin' em and block off their entrances:-\

I can buy a whole lot of welding rod for that kind of money

what I do is anticipate when the car's gonna want to downshift. before I get to the incline, I'll get on the gas a bit, and then feather it back as I ascend, so that by the time I reach the top, I'm back down to my cruise speed, and it didn't have to downshift. kindof defeats the purpose of driving in cruise I guess, but it works well for the occasional undulating road (like say, going from pueblo to castle rock on I-25) if I'm on a road where it's constantly shifting around, I'll pull it into 3rd and just leave it.

I've been sniping the freakin chipmunks that keep on trying to invade it! I used expanded metal to block off the heaters intake, but they keep finding a way in to the car (and my other cars). little bastards. I've gotten over a dozen within the last month

I think they came from the factory with the sluggish option! 73hp and 93 ft lbs of torque! too much power to handle! amateurs need not apply:slobber: just kidding? sea foam is good. run it in both oil and gas, it can help. adjust the valves maybe? that helped mine quite a bit. that, and knocking the guts out of the catalytic convertor

that thing is awesome! I wish I had the time, tools, space, and materials to get mine like that. someday someday... mine will be badasser though cuz it'll have a V8:)

I'd love to get a new challenger, and then change the front to be more like a 'cuda. that'd be sweet! I have a Dodge truck, an S-10 blazer, a 74 bronco, and 2 1970 mustang projects. and a couple subarus too!

mine does that too. similar anyways...it idles at around 200rpm once the choke is off. I can't quite put my finger on what's causing it. I know that if you turn the idle mixture screw in to almost seated, it'll bring the idle back to normal. but that's really not a good idea. to get by, you can turn the idle speed up so that it doesn't die all the time. I gave up on it, and just deal with it till I either A.get a weber, or B.do a 2.5 swap

just knock the catalyst out and be done with it. it'll still pass a visual inspection! I have several cars with "gutted" cats, and they pass emissions just fine

when I was shopping for a muffler, I couldn't find one for less than $250! F!@$K that! and so... I'm using a Thrush turbo muffler on mine. cut the hangers from the original muffler, and welded them to the turbo, and hung it up! it's kinda loud, but whatever

finally wrapped up my stereo and speaker install in the 84. now it has (4) 5.25" sony Xplodes, and a kenwood CD player I nabbed from a boneyard for $20. had a helluva time getting the stereo to fit. it's really too deep, so I ended up mounting it at a downward angle to clear the heater plenum. :-\ not the cleanest install ever but...meh:slobber: that car sure gets filled full of sound now! woohoo the PIA effort paid off:)

I'd love to go running around with other subaru people! there's some pretty decent trails in my neck of the woods, going from woodland park towards denver...

okay, I've decided. I am gonna weld the rear diff in my 84GL. I only occasionally drive it anyways, and I love goin up trails that it shouldn't be able to do. so....until I can figure out how to fab a lockout mechanism at the hubs, she's gettin fully locked. handling quirks I can live with:) for the sake of astonishing jeep guys

129K miles? she's barely broke in! welcome aboard, I'm sure you'll get it up and running, and then end up giving guys advice within a few months I have an 84 wagon that I picked up for $300. dropped the tank and cleaned it out, replaced the fuel pump and filters, rebuilt the carb...and she runs great! gutless as hell, but by golly, it starts every time and runs and runs, I don't care how cold it gets outside. I don't know what it is exactly about these cars, but the are just fun to drive. I get passed by Prius' (unless it's snowing heehee) and I'm still having a good ol' time

The rears are 4", but the opening is a little bigger. 5.25's would probably fit with minimal effort. the brackets in the rear doors need to be notched to clear 5.25s, but yes they do fit!

a few shots of our Baja when we took it up to Estes Park this last fall

I sure don't. pop a wheel off and check it out...

dinkin around puttin a stereo in my old jalopy. found a nice stero in a boneyard for $20, bought 2 pair of Sony Xplods, and have been puttin those in. now, just gotta get some rear door wire grommets to use on my front doors, and finish it up. stupid junkyards around here are closed on sunday, so...this week probably. I feel like an rump roast puttin this effort into a car I drive maybe twice a month

the front hub and rotor are two seperate pieces. the hub get's new holes, the rotor remains the same.

crap! I was kinda wondering if seperate grounds would be the better way to go. I was really hoping I could just splice it in to the exisiting wiring and be done. aw well, think I'll put some speakers in the front doors, and uphgrade the rears while I'm at it.

when I converted my hubs to 6 bolt, I tried to do it myself 1st. used a slightly larger bit to mark the hub through the wheel, then drilled to the right size to accept the studs (can't rememember the size right now). the problem I ran into though, was making the rear flat, in order for the stud to fit flush. I could never get it to my satisfaction...so I said funk it and headed to my local machine shop. he drilled all the holes on the last 3 hubs, and machined a flat for the studs to fit real nice...all for $100. a worthy expense for the peace of mind