spazomatic

Thats what mine did. For a while it would kindof hangup in 3rd, but with enough force would pop but ...then finally it was stuck stuck. I replaced it with a 5speed. Thats what i recommend....the gear spread on the 5 speed is sooo much better than the 4 speed.

You're going to want more horsepower, too. Ive seen a couple guys try to run them, and they ALWAYS missed a double and hit hard straight into the second berm. Cars were bent, and they were done. Had they had more power, they couldve cleared it. They lack the rigidity of a full frame, and they dont have near enough wheel travel. I can attest that subarus can take a serious beating....but they are not built for running tough truck tracks.

No, its not the cable....it seems to kindof pivot maybe 4-5 inches....er, 10 centimeters or so from the right side. (The opposite end from the cable....)

Check your float. I just eyeballed mine and it seems to work.... Take the top off, and turn it upside down. Adjust the tab so that the float is parallel with the gasket surface of the top. Do not! Bend the tab by just pushing on the float with it resting against the inlet needle. It'll damage the tip and/or the seat.

While im here Loyale, Id just like to say thanks. Nowhere else on the 'net have i seen a more consistently helpful fellow. Never a bad word or attitude; always just reaching out a helping hand with your knowledge to anybody who may need it. Mind you, Ive been helped a lot by very good people...but you seem to stand out as somebody eager to help. I just thought to mention it Cheers! Happy trails God Bless

I sure appreciate it, but mines an 84GL. My problem is that with everything plugged in to the cluster, theres no room for me to see behind it, let alone be able to get my hand in there. I can squeeze it in far enough to get the two bottom screws, but theres something that blocks it from letting the top of it set where it needs to be. If i really push on it i could do it...but i dont wanna do that. I then proceed to unplug enough wires to be ale to look to see whats blocking it....and theres nothing! There has to be something, but i just dont see it. Im sure it has to do with my routing of the wire loom, but....i cant see how to make it any better than i have it. And I am not pulling it all back out again! Ill strip the car of all upgrades, tow it out into the back 40 and plink it full of holes, then go buy another old GL before i do that. And so i keep messing with it, whenever i find myself just standing around with nothing better to do.

I got my dash wiring pretty much sorted out....but am having a helluva time getting the gauge cluster to set back in correctly. Messed with it for an hour or so yesterday, pulled some hair out and had a few choice words...set it down before i took a hammer to it, and went to work on other stuff. I think subaru engineers are sadistic bastards

Probably out of spec flywheel. Be sure to check if there is some free play at the clutch fork too though. (with cable disconnected) Im sure your uncle wouldve noticed that though. A bad hub slips all the time. Aftermarket cables that have stretched or a out of whack pedal box cause grinding gear changes, not slippage.

Youve had "intimate contact" with hundreds of disproportionately sized mens genitalia? Eeeuw. Sorry man couldnt help it....im an adult chronologically but a juvenile at heart. I think to determine what you really want, you're going to need to drive a few to see how it suits you. But if you want to be able to sleep semi-comfortably, an outback is probably your best bet. Other nightime activities can be managed in most anything....especially in the woods, with nobody around....on top of the hood is a damn near ideal surface. Most things have quirks...and subarus are no exception. Once you know what year and body you want, you can easily familiarize yourself with any known problem spots. As long as you know what to look for, these things are relatively easy to mitigate.

Steel doesnt "age" like that. Outside of corrosion, in 1000 years it'll be the exact same composition as it is today. They can and do wear out though. I stripped a hub on my 84 just driving down the road like normal. Made a couple of popping sounds and then it was gone. Got home in rear wheel drive. The axle nut on mine was terribly loose, and that is probably the culprit. Being a slip fit, there is some play in there, but the nut should help keep it all snug. If the nut isnt tight, then all the variations in torque and vibration will take advantage of that slop and bang it all to death.

First step; get a hold of Jerry (bratsrus1). Im sure he'd be happy to help you out. The kit he puts together is by far the least amount of work to get it done. Jerry is a wealth of information, a nice guy and fun to talk to, too. You'll need: ea82 clutch disk Ea81 pressure plate and release bearing Custom length rear driveshaft (i think...mines a wagon so i did) No flywheel modifications, uses the stock clutch cable.

How much can you open that gap before you have to worry about breakage?

Oh okay. As long as it doesnt have vacuum at idle. I dont know what else to tell ya, other than; any time ive ever dealt with higher RPM stumbles under a load...it ended up being distributor related. It could still be fuel though too. If for some reason the air/fuel mix runs too lean at the top end, itll be fine until you put a load on it, and then you will feel the lean misfire. Most of my experience runs around american V8s and straight 6s, so most of that still applies...but im no guru with the specific quirks our subaru stuff may have. Get a weber! That pretty much sums up my carb'd subaru wisdom.

I dont think itd get any fumes, while its running. But when its off, the fumes will get to it. Im sure your fix works, and its a great idea for when you're in a pinch. And thought the EPDM will deteriorate, it would most likely take months at least for it to shoot craps. (Since itd be vapors, not liquid)

If thats EPDM (rubber roofing material) you used, just the vapors of fuel will cause it to deteriorate. That stuff doesnt like petroleum distillates whatsoever.

Where do you have the vacuum advance on the distributor hooked up?

I can work my way through most things, so i probably wont. Dont get me wrong, i understand the value of an actual shop manual! Electrical systems are my achilles heel....but Dr. Tom hooked me up, so i should be set.

Tom, ThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouThankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou! etc etc That is going to help so much

Oh sorry, its an 84 GL wagon. Subaruist, Thats exactly what i did. Used the clues to determine what should go where. And am still coming up short. And my internet searches were totally fruitless. I just may have to break down and buy a shop manual for it. Maybe forums have made me lazy(er)...i was hoping somebody could say, "oh yeah i have a pdf, let me send it to ya"

Im putting my dash and interior back together, and ive plugged in everything that obviously goes together. And now im having several problems. For 1, if i turn on the headlights, or the heater fan, theres a buzzing from under the dash, and the fuel pump kicks on. Wtf And i know there are going to be leftover plugs, for options the car doesnt have..but that leaves me with too many options as to what can go to what. I didnt tag anything because it all looked so easy really, with the shape and colors of the male/female connectors all matching (or so i thought) My chiltons is about as useless as a manual can get, and i cant find diddly on the internet. Help!

Mine was initially invaded through the round holes towards the top rear of the front fenderwells. I think its a cowl drain.

Thats a good list...mine is similar. Instead of a hatchet, i keep a machete. Instead of the .22 Ruger pistol, i have a ruger 10-22, and my ever present browning hi-power. Ammo of course. And with the tow straps, i keep an assortment of clevises and D rings, cuz ya never know what ya may end up needing to hook up to. Climbing rope, a 1.5 ton come-a-long, 550 cord... A heater made from a coffee can, a few bottles of 80% isopropyl alcohol, and TP (tp acts as a wick) a mil-surp german folding shovel, spare gallon of gas where the spare tire used to be, tools, belts, misc. hardware, fluids, etc etc.

My dad was real big into building electronics out of kits, like "Heathkit" and a couple others. Because of that, he had a whole lot of good solder. Some people think solder is solder...there is a difference! A while back i'd asked about "pro" heater core quality. I ordered one, but didnt even get to use it, as it was for the wrong application. Good thing too, after hearing this. The core i got from o'reilly (murray) was crap as well. Pipes were kindof right, but angled wrong by a few degrees. What happened to quality workmanship? It must be in hiding along with "self reliance" and "common sense"

Yessir, thats the plan! Actually, my whole plan is to install the disks, and then figure out how im going to operate them with 2 seperate handles, so i can lock either one up selectively. But first, i need to get her HVAC and interior back together so i can drive the thing. Freakin rodents! Their population has dwindled significantly this past summer (via Marlin 780), but its hard to beat their birthrate. I think i have the GL hardened against their invasions now, though.

In other news....while going to nab a boot and HVAC clips from a junkyard, i scored rear disks assemblies, master cylinder and prop valve off of an 88 RX today for my 84GL! Also found a 93 acura that had the rear calipers w/ E brakes ive been looking for.